Newbie with some questions

When there is too much "wet" product in the pad, they don't clean as well. Take it off, set it aside and put on another.

When the "loaded" pad dries, it is easy to brush clean.
 
Exley said:
..What do you guys think about me buying one product like UNO or CUT...



Bad idea IMO as it'd be like buying one grit of sandpaper to do woodworking; aggressive enough would never finish out OK and mild enough would never get the heavy lifting done. Get two products, one aggressive and one mild. Really ;) You'll be glad you did it that way.



.. and a 5 pack of different buff and shine pads to see what works. Then I would order more of what worked well. That would keep me from having to buy a TON of pads or stabbing in the dark and ordering 4 pads that might not do what I want...



If you can do just *one* panel as a test, OK. Otherwise you just won't get far without all those pads.



My take on it is that unless you have problematic paint, or are using finicky products, it's not all *that* necessary to split hairs with the many different pads. Yeah, one choice will probably be optimal, but "close enough" will work awfully well most of the time.



E.g.- I often use MF cutting disks for major correction. Orange light-cut pads for not so serious, but still significant, work. Then I'll often just use Griot's orange polishing pads and that's it. If (big "if" on most of my vehicles, and I'm awfully particular ;) ) I want to really burnish the finish to perfection I'll do more work with some very mild finishing pads, but most of the time it's just not worth it to me (repeat that I'm not easily satisfied...and when I go the extra mile nobody else in the real world would ever notice it).



So IMO you don't *need* five different types of pads nor do you need to choose just the perfectly-right ones. Betcha that the stuff I listed above would work fine for most folks.



..I understand and I appreciate the advice. The reason I was looking more at the harbor freight was that I might not use the machine that much. Its really only for my daily driver and maybe my friends car. I'll keep and eye out for sales on the GG...



Heh heh, I'll beat you over the head with my opinion even more :chuckle: Being able to do those seemingly infrequent jobs efficiently (hey, most of today's polishers are *effective*) is worth the $ to me. But that's me and it's always easy to spend other people's money. Still...this isn't huge money compared to a lot of automotive expenses.



Oh, also will I know when it is time to change pads? Is there a rule of thumb, or more just when it doesn't come clean with a brush?



The starting point rule-of-thumb is to clean 'em far more often than you think necessary. I'm a bit of a fanatic about it, cleaning my pads all the time. But it's *NOT* like you can do a big panel without cleaning the pad, let alone more than that. Pretty fine line between "no problem" and "hey, this isn't working as well as it did a moment ago" and by that time it's hit the fan with regard to a quick on-the-fly cleaning and you gotta get out another pad.



Note that pwaug does it after every other 2' x 2' section. Leaving aside that I seldom do areas that're that large (whole 'nother topic!), I *never* do even remotely that much polishing without cleaning the pad(s) out thoroughly. Doesn't mean he's wrong or I'm right, just means that it's one of those "it all depends..." things and you have to find what works best for you.



And as Ron mentioned, you gotta get out a freash one now and then no matter what.



Err on the side of caution and buy plenty of pads. Minimize the chance of buyers remorse by choosing pads that are "usually good choices for most jobs".



Oh, and *DO NOT* buy the dimpled pads! I simply hate 'em and I'm not alone in that.
 
Bad idea IMO as it'd be like buying one grit of sandpaper to do woodworking; aggressive enough would never finish out OK and mild enough would never get the heavy lifting done. Get two products, one aggressive and one mild. Really You'll be glad you did it that way.



E.g.- I often use MF cutting disks for major correction. Orange light-cut pads for not so serious, but still significant, work. Then I'll often just use Griot's orange polishing pads and that's it. If (big "if" on most of my vehicles, and I'm awfully particular ) I want to really burnish the finish to perfection I'll do more work with some very mild finishing pads, but most of the time it's just not worth it to me (repeat that I'm not easily satisfied...and when I go the extra mile nobody else in the real world would ever notice it).



Ok so I am thinking HD CUT and HD Polish and Orange (cutting) and Blue (polishing) pads respectively. I understand that every situation is different, but do you think that will get me going in the right direction?



I was just really scared of a cutting product (both compound and pad). I was worried that a more aggressive product in my inexperienced hands would do more harm than good.
 
I started with 6 orange, 4 green and a couple of red to apply LSPs and it was a good start, then added other pads as I needed. The blue pad seems really soft to me so might not do much on hard clear. The one Ford I polished was a 97 Escort and the paint was rock hard, but I don't know how the paint is on late model Fords.
 
Exley said:
Ok so I am thinking HD CUT and HD Polish and Orange (cutting) and Blue (polishing) pads respectively. I understand that every situation is different, but do you think that will get me going in the right direction?



I'll defer to pwaug as he's used the pads in question. The green will probably be a touch more aggressive than the blue and that's probably good. Note he's talking about Ford clear, which I consider "medium", i.e., softer than my other cars.



I was just really scared of a cutting product (both compound and pad). I was worried that a more aggressive product in my inexperienced hands would do more harm than good.



Glad to see you're approaching this cautiously, but I don't think you have anything to worry about (especially with the mindset you're displaying).
 
Here's a link to the B&S pad info sheet Application Charts Note the green and blue are very close--I just think you'd be better off with the green even if your paint is more on the medium hard side as Accumulator mentioned. My wife's Escort was 14 years old and the paint was almost as hard as my VW (she has found a way to keep me in line--she replaced the Escort with a 12 Golf in non-metallic black)



Later on you may want to get a few black pads and use HD Speed as a final step before your LSP--really brings the shine and depth up a notch on both light and dark paint.



Take the time to read through the reviews of Cut and Polish in the 3D section as it will help get a sense of how to use the products. Generally speaking with HD products less is more and they seem to work best with no pad priming other than a couple extra drops on the first section. But usually a little more when using a firm correcting pad than when using a softer polishing pad. And don't forget to do test sections on your car until you get the results you want before doing the entire car. I think I did six tests the first time I did my Passat just because I didn't know how each change of pad, product, pad speed and arm speed would react with the paint. I was concerned also about damaging my paint, but everything worked out well because I took my time and proceeded with caution, but I have to say with the GG DA, B&S pads (or HD pads) and HD polishes I've had amazing results and none of the myriad of problems you see posted by beginners using less powerful DAs and less than friendly polishing products (that everyone seems to recommend without taking into account someone is new to machine polishing)
 
When it comes to Fords I've only done Crown Vics, but I find the paint easy to do. Not too hard, not too soft, not "sticky" with regard to product residues/oils, not all that finicky about what pad/product you use. IIRC Ron Kecham has said that to the extent that it's safe to generalize (oh yeah, that's a disclaimer ;) ) "Ford clear is Ford clear" with regard to vehicles of that vintage.



I hardly ever say stuff like this (as I generally go the other way), but I'm thinking "no need to over-think this" at this point in the discussion.
 
Thanks! I feel a lot better now and I really appreciate the advice. I picked up the Harbor Freight ( I know, but I couldn't pass it up for $47) and a clay bar kit the other day.



I am really looking forward to getting to work when it gets a little warmer. I will probably go with HD CUT, POLISH, and POXY with orange and green pads. I also plan on replacing or adding to my washing equipment to keep from marring my paint all over again. :waxing:



Also here is my baby. You've seen the paint, but not the whole car

EDIT: need to fix the picture, it keeps showing up upside down

IMG_0521%20(800x600).jpg


EDIT 2: Fixed
 
pwaug said:
Don't forget a red pad to apply POXY!!



Not to :argue but one of the few pads I'd like to try is the LC Gold LSPing pad. I generally have this "oh, what I have is fine..." attitude about pads, but that one particular pad is something I expect to be really great.



Just mentioning it as Exley is gonna be buying pads anyhow...



Exley- OK, I won't beat ya up over that HF polisher ;) See how you like it and give me a good "I told you so!" if it's perfectly satisfactory :chuckle:



Get that pic link to work!
 
Don't forget a red pad to apply POXY!!

Don't worry, I didn't! I'm planning on doing two of the 5 pad deals from autoality.com. 4 orange 4 green 2 red. (I just added that up in my head to make sure I did my math right :dizzy:)



Get that pic link to work!

FIXED!



one of the few pads I'd like to try is the LC Gold LSPing pad

Oooohh I autoality doesn't have that. ill have to see if another vendor does.
 
[quote name='Accumulator']Not to :argue but one of the few pads I'd like to try is the LC Gold LSPing pad. I generally have this "oh, what I have is fine..." attitude about pads, but that one particular pad is something I expect to be really great.QUOTE]



I've heard of this before and the only LC Golds I can ever find is in the Kompressor line and CCS line (with the dimples) and both are listed as jeweling pads that are also good for applying LSPs. That being said I've been happy with the B&S red pad--very soft with no cut.
 
pwaug- Ah, looks like I'll have to look into the LC Gold pads a bit further if I ever decide to buy some. Sure don't want any dimpled pads, even for LSPing.



Exley- Ah, that's one very good-looking Mustang!
 
Exley, best of luck. I'm following your thread. I and/ or 'We' seem to be in the same boat. I have the same HD products and same pads. Like you, waiting for time and weather.



Pwaug has been awesome as far as being helpful to new folks.



All the other posters have been great as well.







Nice 'Stang, I'm sure after a nice weekend on working on the paint it will be that much nicer.



-Dellinger
 
Can someone please explain why there would be a need to replace the backing plate on the HF-DA?



I bought one just over a week ago, along with some pads. The backing plate is only about 1/8 inch smaller than the Velcro on the pads. It fits fine. What am I missing?



Exley said:
I understand that for the harbor freight DA I will need to replace the backing plate.
 
Batt4Christ said:
Can someone please explain why there would be a need to replace the backing plate on the HF-DA?



I bought one just over a week ago, along with some pads. The backing plate is only about 1/8 inch smaller than the Velcro on the pads. It fits fine. What am I missing?



The backing plate on the HF did not seem to be of very good quality on the units I've seen (it acutally had a wobble you could see rotating it by hand) and there have been reports of the BP destroying the HF pads because of the 1/8" overhang when you put pressure on the machine for heavy correction. I guess you could eliminate this problem by using 6.5" pads that have the velcro all the way to the edge like LC Low profile flat pads, but by going to a 5" backing plate it allows you to use 5.5" pads which the unit can rotate better under pressure. Basically just makes it a more effective machine.
 
The backing plate is not overhanging the pad, the pad's Velcro is slightly larger than the backing plate.



In a trial run last week with my new one- no wobble, and no indication of any pad issues. That's why I posted. Maybe I need to post a picture or two.
 
[quote name='Batt4Christ']The backing plate is not overhanging the pad, the pad's Velcro is slightly larger than the backing plate. QUOTE]



Wow that sure is different--on everyone I've seen the backing plate was larger than the velcro on the pad.
 
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