Newbie needs help with using the right Menzerna polish

[ars6]

This is my first time polishing (porter cable orbital) a car with all these products. This is what I used (in this order):



1. Menzerna super intensive POLISH - cut 3.8

2. Menzerna super FINISH - cut 2.5

3. Menzerna power lock polymer - cut 0



I also bought the Megs M105 compound. I didn't use it because polishing the car a total of FOUR times in addition to claying would have been way too much work for my first time. But the car could have sure used the M105. Especially the hood.



So here's where I'm stumped. WHY AM I STOPPING AT THE SUPER FINISH - CUT 2.5??? Shouldn't I use other polishes to gradually reduce the cuts until I reach...the lightest cut. I bought these products from a prof. and very reputable detailer. He told me what to buy and directed me to proceed with the above products. Common sense tells me that after the Super Finish with cut 2.5 I should use another finish like the Menzerna Final polish with cut 1.0 and then use Menzerna Finishing Glaze with cut 0.5. That's how I understand it. Someone school me!



Sometimes this prof. uses:

Meg M105

Menzerna super intensive polish cut 3.8

Menzerna final polish cut 1.0

Menzerna power lock polymer.

NOw I'm even more stumped! Why go from cut 3.8 to 1.0? What happened to the in between cuts? WHy not continue and go down to a 0.5 cut before using the sealant?





Wax - As you can see above I didn't use a wax. I plan to use one the next time I do it. Does the wax go on before the Menzerna POwer Lock Polymer or before? I plan to use one of the Swissvax waxes.



TIA!

 

[Ch96067]

Theory says use 106ff or fa or 85RD on a low cut polish pad or no cut finishing pad for jeweling. I had the same issue of time recently and i stopped at 203 with no significant issues. Depending on the techinique/pads/polisher/paint type and condition it is possible to be LSP ready with just 203. For helpful info on the menz range (Menzerna USA: The World's Finest Polishing Materials)



As for wax it goes after the sealant. Not sure how well SV will bond to the sealant for maximum effect. An alternative would be to use instead of the sealant a glaze and then SV.

 

[ars6]

... it is possible to be LSP ready with just 203....





As for wax it goes after the sealant. Not sure how well SV will bond to the sealant for maximum effect. An alternative would be to use instead of the sealant a glaze and then SV.

What does LSP stand for?



So if I use the 85RD as the final polish, should I use the 203 right before it as well? This is where I'm confused. Why are we skipping cuts. Going from a 3.8 cut to a 1.0 (85RD) cut. I relate it to sanding wood or metals with sand paper, don't you have to gradually reduce the sanding grits finer and finer?



You hit the nail right on the head! I was concern about the Swissvax not sticking as well. I was going to try the Swissvax SHIELD. I don't want to blow $170 on wax if it's not going to stick to my car with the Menzerna power lock polymer on it. I like the power lock..a lot. Maybe it's my first time using it and have no thing to compare it to, but it makes the car DAMN smooth! And it appears to seal very well. I placed a bottle of polish on the hood while I was working on the car and slid right off!



FYI - This is a Silver 2003 Audi RS6. I was told that the paint is hard.

 

[lyzing]

What does LSP stand for?



So if I use the 85RD as the final polish, should I use the 203 right before it as well? This is where I'm confused. Why are we skipping cuts. Going from a 3.8 cut to a 1.0 (85RD) cut. I relate it to sanding wood or metals with sand paper, don't you have to gradually reduce the sanding grits finer and finer?



I don't want to blow $170 on wax if it's not going to stick to my car with the Menzerna power lock polymer on it. I like the power lock..a lot.



FYI - This is a Silver 2003 Audi RS6. I was told that the paint is hard.

LSP stands for Last Step Product.



If the paint finishes without any marring under inspection after 203, then you might not need to use the 85RD afterwards. With hard Audi Paint it very well might finish just fine after the 203. You can always do a test spot with 85RD on a finessing pad (black lake country is what I'd use) and see if it amps up the paint at all, if it does, do it to the rest of the car.



Clear coat is much harder than wood. You're over thinking the cut ratings. Especially since the Menzerna polishes are all Dimishing abrasives, which means that they gradually have less and less cut as you work them, eventually finishing down smooth (generally). Sand paper does not break down very much.



If you like the Power Lock so much, then I wouldn't spend money on the swissvax to be honest. Use what you know works for you

 

[ars6]

If you like the Power Lock so much, then I wouldn't spend money on the swissvax to be honest. Use what you know works for you

Thanks for the advice! I do like the power lock a lot because of how smooth it finishes. It' only been on the car for about a week. I was concern about how well and long will it last. Especially if I park outdoors. I'll skip the Swissvax. You just saved me $170! Maybe I'll try Lusso Oro or something that's more reasonably priced.



Which wax do you guys like to use?

 

[Ch96067]

Here are a couple of readings that along with all the spot on comments here will clarify a lot on polishing. They have done and still do for me as a new starter.



Detailing World Guides - Contents - Detailing World

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

Like earlier poster stated, the cut ratings are a general guideline--a ton of factors go into the gaps in between;things like type of car paint, amount of correction needed, pressure applied, machine used, pad combinations are things I would consider to be some of the main things to consider.



For instance, I might start with the M105 with an orange pad using the KBM (look it up--there's a good article on it here) and then ease the pressure off to kind of bridge the gap to the next step.



Honestly in terms of wax--I would say go with Collinite--MY pick would be 845 for super ease or 915(if memory serves 476 stains trim but i don't recall 915 staining) they can take a hell of a beating and it's cheap =] (915 and 476 I believe will last from 4-6 months? or 3-5 winter months).



most people ultimately will be hard pressed to know the difference after a certain amount of work anyways or some you will only really notice under certain lighting conditions etc... so I mean it just depends on how much work you want to put in and how much difference you actually notice.



Paint condition is also crucial--understand the more times you use abrasive products, the less you'll have to work on the next time which is why I've been less compound happy and started to head Accumulator's approaches and simply look for ways to maintain by minimizing the abrading via contaminants and products.



I think your process should fair well...POSSIBLY even be able to take out the first step or the middle one depending on the condition and after that maybe get away with light po85rd polishes or something of the like maybe once a year.