Newbie looking for first polisher

SilverVRoom said:
Why would you reccomend this all-in-1 product instead of having separate products? Also, if I do get this one step product, why get all of the pads? Sorry, I have VERY limited knowledge about detailing. Thanks for the recommendation and help.

Also, what about the quality of the mothers polish that I can just pick up from Walmart?
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All good questions!

For starting out, using a AIO like HD Speed will give you the best bang for your $. It`s a dead simple product that yields amazing results. The reason you want a bunch of pads is simple: residue control. By having at least 3 pads (of two different cut types) allows you to rotate them while you go around the vehicle: ready to use > in use > washed. Clean pads will yield the best results in the shortest amount of time.

Additionally overloaded pads can explode on you! I`ve had it happen once - when I was starting out. Thankfully nothing was damaged other then my nerves...

I can`t comment on using Mother`s polishes - but I`m sure someone else can?
 
nickclark08 said:
I know it`s autopian heresy, but I`m honestly not looking for perfection. Just better than 12 year-old swirled up paint. No garage queens in this house :)
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I don`t know man.... detailing is addicting... before you know it you will have 30 different polishes!! Ask me how I know...

nickclark08 said:
HD speed to clean things up, throw on some FK1000p to protect everything, call it a day. I`m liking where this is going....
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Perfect! Nice and simple.
 
nickclark08 said:
Megs Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish would be better bets for something you can find from Walmart, etc. In addition to HD speed mentioned by Angus, I might pick these up too.
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Megs Ultimate Compound and Polish are great OTC products for sure. Heck most of Megs products is awesome. However keep in mind by going to a 2 step:
  • You`ll more than doubling the time involved (vs using an AIO)
  • You`ll need additional microfiber towels to wipe off 2X as much spent product
  • Megs UC and UP will create dust and are oily = You may need to wash your car prior to applying your LSP to make 100% sure you`ve removed all of the oil and dust left behind by UC and UP.
 
nickclark08 said:
I know it`s autopian heresy, but...
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Heh heh, now you`re starting to sound like me, even if we are on different sides of the Daily Driver fence :D

HD speed to clean things up, throw on some FK1000p to protect everything, call it a day. I`m liking where this is going....
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That is one *VERY* sensible approach and a *GREAT* way for somebody to ease into the whole "detailing with a polisher" thing.
 
And yeah...every person starting out with this stuff oughta probably buy more pads than they think they need. Having a clean pad, and a spare or three because [stuff] happens, really is that important.
 
It was on your recommendation that I got FK1000p, so your preaching about its virtues worked :)

Truly is pretty awesome stuff if protection, durability, and ease of cleaning are top priorities (for a DD, these should be IMO).

Accumulator said:
Heh heh, now you`re starting to sound like me, even if we are on different sides of the Daily Driver fence :D



That is one *VERY* sensible approach and a *GREAT* way for somebody to ease into the whole "detailing with a polisher" thing.
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nickclark08- Glad, but not surprised ;) to hear it`s working for you. And I do appreciate feedback, even when it turns out I was wrong.
 
I`m always coming across old Porter-Cable 7424, and 7424xp type tools locally on Craigslist. I just picked one up for $50.00!

I`ve always enjoyed using Meguiar Ultimate line. I pair it with green, blue, and red Buff and Shine pads. I also keep a few microfiber pads with me, just in case the green pad struggles.

Another option is the PC, and Meguiar`s D/A microfiber correction system. It`s simple two step process.

Step 1 - Remove damage
Step 2 - Refine the finish/lay down wax protection.

It includes:
two microfiber cutting pads
two microfiber finishing pads
D300 Correction Compound
D301 Finishing Wax

And I believe a 5" back plate, and pad conditioning brush.

There really isn`t much these two set ups can`t address. Ultimate Compound and Polish also work great with microfiber pads. I even use Ultimate with my Rupes tools and pads.
 
Think you guys have finally sold me on HD Speed and FK1000


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danlc95 said:
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Another option is the PC, and Meguiar`s D/A microfiber correction system. It`s simple two step process.

...

And I believe a 5" back plate, and pad conditioning brush.

There really isn`t much these two set ups can`t address. Ultimate Compound and Polish also work great with microfiber pads. I even use Ultimate with my Rupes tools and pads.
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I keep forgetting about this set up!!! D300 smells good, too. I`ll see if I can use it this Sunday. Hopefully it doesn`t rain. Been raining almost all week.
 
Angus said:
All good questions!

For starting out, using a AIO like HD Speed will give you the best bang for your $. It`s a dead simple product that yields amazing results. The reason you want a bunch of pads is simple: residue control. By having at least 3 pads (of two different cut types) allows you to rotate them while you go around the vehicle: ready to use > in use > washed. Clean pads will yield the best results in the shortest amount of time.

Additionally overloaded pads can explode on you! I`ve had it happen once - when I was starting out. Thankfully nothing was damaged other then my nerves...

I can`t comment on using Mother`s polishes - but I`m sure someone else can?
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Thanks for the answer. I guess I should`ve phrased my question differently. I meant to say if I use the one product, wouldn`t that call for one type of pad instead of two? Or can I use it as more of a compound with a rougher pad and polish with a smoother pad? I hope that makes sense.

Also, should I not get one to apply wax with as well? Do people typically use the polisher to buff the wax after it drys or remove it by hand with a microfiber cloth?
 
SilverVRoom said:
Thanks for the answer. I guess I should`ve phrased my question differently. I meant to say if I use the one product, wouldn`t that call for one type of pad instead of two? Or can I use it as more of a compound with a rougher pad and polish with a smoother pad? I hope that makes sense.

Also, should I not get one to apply wax with as well? Do people typically use the polisher to buff the wax after it drys or remove it by hand with a microfiber cloth?
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Yes the choice of pad will effect the finish. If I was in your shoes and going to use an AOI, I would use a medium cut pad. This gives you enough power to remove most swirls and fine scratches. As you said, this is a 14 yr old DD and you are not looking for show car results. Buy 4-6 pads and clean them often.

I you you are buying an AOI (All in One) your wax is in the AOI. This does not stop you from applying a wax after the AOI, but it does question the use of an AOI. You could just buy a medium polish (e.g. Menzerma 2500), then choose a Last Step Product (LSP) of your choice (e.g. Wax, sealant, coating). You can remove wax with the buffer, but I prefer to remove wax by hand. If you are using the buffer to remove wax you will need microfiber cloths that fit on your buffers pad made to remove wax. Hope I`ve helped.
 
The Harbor Freight DA with 20% off coupon is a good deal. There are some video`s on how to repack it with grease so it runs cool and quite. I`ve had one for several years now and have had no problems with it.
For a little more then twice the money you can get the GG6 with a life time warranty. Griot`s Garage is a fantastic company that has top notch customer service and back their product like no other company I know of. I bought a used GG6 off Ebay awhile back and had problems with the speed dial not working. It was still covered under warranty even though I bought it used from a third party. Within 6 days after mailing the polisher to them, I received a brand new polisher on my door step. Now that is great customer service backing their product!!!
Of the two choices you listed I would choose neither! Like Mary B said if you have to wait and save up for one, that would be the way to go. Good luck with your choice and welcome to the forum.
 
I`m a newbie with very limited experience. I`ve corrected paint on 3 cars so far, with pretty good success. A lot of reading here and on AG. Many products tried, but far fewer than others here.

Getting a DA to correct the paint on your cars is fine. I WOULD NOT put a DA to the hood you`re talking about until you know what the issue is. Do you see scratches/swirls? I would get some polish (not compound) and do a test spot by hand. How does it look? Does it shine? If so, how many scratches are left? I would ease into it.

I feel good about the work I`ve done and my cars have never looked better. I`ve gotten past the excited/proud of myself phase and am now scared about what damage I could cause. I don`t have a paint gauge. When I compound a car I have no idea how close I`m coming to going through clear coat into the paint. I don`t want to find out. My next purchase is likely to be a paint gauge, assuming it can tell me clear coat thickness. (Or maybe I have to assume paint thickness and subtract to get remaining CC.) And I believe that some polish by hand is likely safe for anything. I would start there.

If you read enough you`ll read about people damaging their paint unintentionally or going through their clear coat. Don`t be that guy.
 
Just a PSA-type note- It`s not a matter of going through the clear, but merely taking off too much. The specs for how much (I really oughta say "how little") you can take off before you precipitate failure are pretty scary, and the short-version is "not much at all". Especially with today`s cars that have so little on there to begin with.

When I get a chance I`ll study up on the lastest info bulletin from Ford (big thanks to Ron K), but I haven`t gotten around to it yet. In the past, they said something like "less than 2/3 of a mil" which is a lot less that many people take off without even thinking about it.
 
Thanks for the info, Accumulator. Another example of me not being a pro, and another example of why I`m now terrified rather than confident and empowered to take a compound to my paint. I think this is appropriate and healthy given the risk.

I`m now looking hard at LSPs (and last stage correction) that may have some filling capability. If I can make it look good without taking off material, that`s my preference.
 
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