New Truck - What Should I Do First?

lvalesko

New member
I'm still a newbie around here, (but I do have a Porter Cable).



I'm getting a brand new F-150 in Oxford White this weekend and am wondering what are the first thing(s) I need to do when I get her home??



Simple, step-by-step would be great!



Thanks!
 
Use what Ford has published for years. Not some undocumented or un-approved products.

Back in the 90's Ford issued Technical Service Bulletins for the use of the ValuGard ABC system.

You can read two of these bulletins from Ford at ValuGard.net, click on the "Engineers" icon and there they are, step by step.

Since 2006, they no longer issue TSB's for it's use.

Instead, they put the "USE" of the same product system in the "dealership service manuals" for each Ford vehicle. The dealership has these for their technicans.

It is not in your owners manual, it is in the model's "service manual".

Since 2006, the ValuGard ABC system featured in the older Technical Service Bulletins is now shown in the Service Manuals under the Ford MotorCraft brand label.

Same products as the ValuGard, just that Ford found it was more acceptable to the dealers and would be used by them is under their MotorCraft brand.

The company that produces the ValuGard line is Automotive International, and private labels many tested and engineering approved car care products for many of the world's vehicle manufacturers.

Here is what is important to you. If you find the paint surface "rough to the touch", or since it is white and was rail transported to an inland rail port, then on a truck to the dealership, it may exhibit small "rust colored" spots.

Ford pays the dealership to use the MotorCraft ABC system to remove them safely. You don't pay for this, it is covered under their paint warranty. No using of of un-approved or such off the shelf products.

Use these sort of products and you may have a paint warranty problem in the future of your vehicle's warranty.

Just a head's up.

 
So.... if I'm reading this correctly you're saying I should only use the Valugard ABC system, correct? And if so, then can I use a quality carnuba wax immediately afterwards? I'm totally good with that - won't miss claying and polishing at all!! Thanks!!
 
Odds are being a Ford, it will have rail dust, so the ABC system is a good idea. Follow by claying, light polish and seal.
 
I am stating the the ValuGard ABC system is the same as the Ford MotorCraft system. Automotive International, who is ValuGard, makes it for Ford.

The dealer can do the system for you, without cost to you.

As far as any additional polishing, you can do that, after they deconaminate the paint at their expense, not your out of pocket cost.

ValuGard does not make the system in small qualities for individuals. One kit will do 10 to 15 vehicles, much more than you would ever need.

They are a "professional" provider of products to large detail operations, vehicle manufacturers, their port operations, etc.

They will sell to individuals, but that is not their real business.

If you visit the site and look under the Engineer's section, you can see the same sort of TSB's for the ABC use by other vehicle manufacturers.

That, in it's self, should tell anyone that it is a system that works, does not create damage, etc, vs the "peer" advice for the use of products that can not obtain such testing and aprovals by the vehicle manufacturers. They know what works, what will not cause problems a year or so after it's use.

These "It's easy to get, one step and you are happy" products can not provide such documenation or approvals./B]
 
OK - I think I understand... how do I get this done by them? I'm supposed to pick the truck up Saturday. Thanks!!
 
lvalesko said:
So.... if I'm reading this correctly you're saying I should only use the Valugard ABC system, correct? And if so, then can I use a quality carnuba wax immediately afterwards? I'm totally good with that - won't miss claying and polishing at all!! Thanks!!



You should always clay and polish before protection (since you asked)
 
lvalesko said:
So.... if I'm reading this correctly you're saying I should only use the Valugard ABC system, correct? And if so, then can I use a quality carnuba wax immediately afterwards? I'm totally good with that - won't miss claying and polishing at all!! Thanks!!



I never need to clay after ABCing, there's no contamination left to need "claying away". Note that claying *can* induce marring if something goes wrong...doesn't always happen by any means, but it's one more reason (besides the time/effort) to *not* do it unless there's a reason why it's needed.



Similarly, I'd only polish if it's necessary to remove/reduce marring or if you need to up the gloss (shouldn't really be necessary on a new vehicle).



IF (and it might be a big "if") the paint isn't marred, the ABC oughta prep the paint just fine, nothing else needed other than LSPing. You could always do an AIO and then top that with your carnauba (though I'd use a sealant instead).



FWIW, my white Ford looks swell with FK1000P on it, and that stuff a) lasts for a very long time, b) resists damage from birds/bugs/etc., and c) sheds dirt great during the wash.
 
OK - now I'm confused. Most of you sound like you have purchased and used ABC yourselves, but Ketcham advises against it and says I should make sure Ford has done it.



I have 2 concerns about that: one is, how will I know they'll do it? Sure, I can call the salesman today and tell him I want the car ABC'd before I pick it up tomorrow and he will say, sure!, and I"ll have no idea if it was done correctly. Or, number 2, maybe it was ABC'd when it got to it's original destinations months ago - we live just a few miles from the largets port in the US, (LA/Long Beach Port Complex), so I know there's been more 'stuff' rained down on the paint even if it was ABC'd as some point.



I would rather not clay if this is a good alternative as I have experienced marring.



Sorry, but what is LSPing and AIO??



Is it practical to buy the ABC, then use it twice a year before I wax with just regular washing with quality in between?



Thanks again for the great help!!!
 
What I am saying is that if it has any "roughness" to the touch in the paint or any "rust blooms", Ford pays them to do it with their money. I can't recall for sure, but I think the time allowance is one hour plus materials. They charge back to Ford at their internal warranty rate, in your area probably around $75 to $80 an hour, plus the cost of the materials, which they are allowed to mark up by a set percentage to cover the parts department costs, etc.

I know your area well, used to call on all the new car dealers in LA. Plus, my biggest account was the Ford Pre-Delivery Center in Mira Loma, where they did the process to over 500 cars a day before they went to the dealers.(this facility was the railhead and was closed down by Ford about 8 or 9 years ago) Once they set on the dealer's lot in your area or some others, in 30 days they had more contaminates on them from the industrial areas and the port area. Often they had to redo the process when customers complained.

If you decide to have them do it, be very clear that you will not accept anything less than the MotorCraft process as speced in the Service Manual or the TSB. You have a 12,000/12 month warranty on this concern, so if it returns, and it probably will due to where you live, make em do it again.

Or, just watch the training video on ValuGard.net and buy the ValuGard branded system and do it your self.

Follow the directions, exactly, and you will have no problems.
 
Several pros have suggested the steps for you to take. Keep it simple

Your chances of having a defect free paint from the dealer is not guaranteed

Polishing of any kind will make the biggest difference. I wouldn't skip that step.

Unless of course you are happy with the paint as is. But since you are asking

on this forum I'd think that you want your truck look better than average

Enjoy the truck either way.
 
Accumulator said:
Similarly, I'd only polish if it's necessary to remove/reduce marring or if you need to up the gloss (shouldn't really be necessary on a new vehicle).



You'd be stunned at how much improvement proper polish does for even brand new vehicles even if they are swirl and mar free.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Or, just watch the training video on ValuGard.net and buy the ValuGard branded system and do it your self.

Follow the directions, exactly, and you will have no problems.



Turns out the ValuGard ABC System is a good value. It looks like Ford charges approx. $40 for each of the 3 products.
 
Well, I have no idea if Ford will/has used ABC on the truck. I guess I'll see how it looks when I pick it up tomorrow. If I see anything obvious I'll demand the ABC. If not I'll bring her home and do something like this:



Sonus Gloss Shampoo

Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay (if necessary)

Klasse All-In-One Paint Cleaner & Polish



I'll have to do the job by hand so I'm trying to keep it as easy as possible. No shade around my house here at the beach, so after I wash and clay I'll have to drive up to a local park to apply the Klasse, so I'll have shade but no electricity.



For the future if I see/feel crap accumulating at a high rate, I'll pop for the ABC and do that myself once or twice a year.



Thanks :)
 
lvalesko said:
Well, I have no idea if Ford will/has used ABC on the truck. I guess I'll see how it looks when I pick it up tomorrow. If I see anything obvious I'll demand the ABC. If not I'll bring her home and do something like this:



Sonus Gloss Shampoo

Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay (if necessary)

Klasse All-In-One Paint Cleaner & Polish



I'll have to do the job by hand so I'm trying to keep it as easy as possible. No shade around my house here at the beach, so after I wash and clay I'll have to drive up to a local park to apply the Klasse, so I'll have shade but no electricity.



Note that the Sonus SFX clay (which I like/use/recommend...in fact, I spot-clay with it at *every* wash) is generally too mild to actually decontaminate the paint. Being so gentle, it's used to just "clean the LSP".



Also, don't take the Klasse ad-copy too seriously, the protection it leaves behind is utterly minimal and you really do need to top it with something. Again, not knocking it, I like/use/recommend KAIO too. But it's really best as a cleaner and shouldn't be relied upon to provide any real protection.



For the future if I see/feel crap accumulating at a high rate, I'll pop for the ABC and do that myself once or twice a year...



Yikes, you'd have to have pretty serious contamination issues to need it that often. If you get a good LSP on top of the KAIO you won't need to do such a big job.



Scottwax said:
You'd be stunned at how much improvement proper polish does for even brand new vehicles even if they are swirl and mar free.



Well, remember that when I buy new vehicles I typically spend over a *month* improving upon the factory finish ;)



But I'm figuring that not everybody is that crazy, and there's no need for a "normal person" to get all Autopian about this stuff. We're talking about a new, white, truck here...right?
 
Back
Top