the other pc
New member
Dead? Not exactly, but it did seem to wander off from your original questions a bit.
So, back to the beginning.
I can't comment on the exact products you mentioned since I haven't used them. But I can mention a few generalities.
If you're happy with the Mr. Clean soap, you might as well use it up. After that, I'd suggest trying something else. Way back when the Mr. Clean system hit the market there was a lot of talk about it. But I don't remember anybody ever saying they actually liked the soap. The rinse feature did gain some popularity.
When comparing the cost of soap, be sure to compare the cost per wash, not just the price of a bottle. Some soaps are more concentrated than others. Read the instructions and do the math. Also, buying the larger sizes of soaps usually lowers the per wash cost dramatically. If a gallon (4l) of soap cost twice as much as a quart (1l) the cost per wash is half.
I think going with the Natty's was a good choice. But I'm a paste kind'a guy anyway.
I would definitely recommend the clay. I know it's expensive over there, but IMHO it's totally worth it.
Think of finish care as a cycle, removing gunk on the paint, prepping the paint so that it's smooth and shiny, protecting the paint, maintaining it in between cycles and then starting all over again when it eventually needs it.
Washing the car (with whatever soap you choose) gently removes loose dirt and grime. Clay removes stubbornly stuck gunk that washing alone doesn't.
Now that you've exposed the paint, you prep it by removing stains, scratches, oxidation, etc. That's what the "Step 1" cleaning polish is for. If Mothers' anything like Meguiar's "Step 1" it's quite mild. That's fine if the paint is in very good shape. I find that most cars need something stronger. Many need really strong products like heavy compounds. It just depends on the car.
The "Step 2" is a "glaze," which doesn't remove defects from the paint but adds gloss enhancing ingredients like oils. Glazes are temporary, they wash off over time and they usually don't do much for light colors anyway. So you probably want to skip it on your car.
Then you protect it with the wax.
Now you can drive and enjoy it until you're ready to do it again.
In the meantime, you can remove light dust, fingerprints, bird bombs, etc with a quick detailing product like the one that comes in the clay kit. (I would buy more than just what's in the kit, I use a lot of it.)
And you'll want to buy a stack of microfiber towels. I know you need to balance the cost/benefit on everything you get. So buy what you can afford up front and pick up more when you can. When it comes to microfibers, everybody eventually comes around to the American philosophy of "more is better."
pc
So, back to the beginning.
I can't comment on the exact products you mentioned since I haven't used them. But I can mention a few generalities.
If you're happy with the Mr. Clean soap, you might as well use it up. After that, I'd suggest trying something else. Way back when the Mr. Clean system hit the market there was a lot of talk about it. But I don't remember anybody ever saying they actually liked the soap. The rinse feature did gain some popularity.
When comparing the cost of soap, be sure to compare the cost per wash, not just the price of a bottle. Some soaps are more concentrated than others. Read the instructions and do the math. Also, buying the larger sizes of soaps usually lowers the per wash cost dramatically. If a gallon (4l) of soap cost twice as much as a quart (1l) the cost per wash is half.
I think going with the Natty's was a good choice. But I'm a paste kind'a guy anyway.
I would definitely recommend the clay. I know it's expensive over there, but IMHO it's totally worth it.
Think of finish care as a cycle, removing gunk on the paint, prepping the paint so that it's smooth and shiny, protecting the paint, maintaining it in between cycles and then starting all over again when it eventually needs it.
Washing the car (with whatever soap you choose) gently removes loose dirt and grime. Clay removes stubbornly stuck gunk that washing alone doesn't.
Now that you've exposed the paint, you prep it by removing stains, scratches, oxidation, etc. That's what the "Step 1" cleaning polish is for. If Mothers' anything like Meguiar's "Step 1" it's quite mild. That's fine if the paint is in very good shape. I find that most cars need something stronger. Many need really strong products like heavy compounds. It just depends on the car.
The "Step 2" is a "glaze," which doesn't remove defects from the paint but adds gloss enhancing ingredients like oils. Glazes are temporary, they wash off over time and they usually don't do much for light colors anyway. So you probably want to skip it on your car.
Then you protect it with the wax.
Now you can drive and enjoy it until you're ready to do it again.
In the meantime, you can remove light dust, fingerprints, bird bombs, etc with a quick detailing product like the one that comes in the clay kit. (I would buy more than just what's in the kit, I use a lot of it.)
And you'll want to buy a stack of microfiber towels. I know you need to balance the cost/benefit on everything you get. So buy what you can afford up front and pick up more when you can. When it comes to microfibers, everybody eventually comes around to the American philosophy of "more is better."
pc
I guess I have to change my notification settings.
.