New to Car Care - Need Product Advice

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dfwheels1

New member
Hi guys, great to be here. I'll try to be brief.



I have a 2001 Saab 9-5 SE that I bought used in 2004. It's metallic midnight blue with tan leather interior. I have not taken good care of it since owning it. It was detailed when I purchased it, polished once a few years ago with a TW F21 polish, and detailed a couple of months ago for the first time (they only did an okay job). So, detailed twice and polished once in the past 6 years. Other than that, it's been the occasional drive-thru car wash or washing in my driveway with an Armorall liquid car soap. It has swirl marks and has become kind of dull (not to mention the scratches).



I used the feature on the TW website that helps you pick which products of theirs to use depending on the age and condition of car. Once the car is clean, they recommend (1) scratch and swirl remover, followed by (2) either Ice Synthetic, or Carnauba wax.



For someone who has very limited time (and has never waxed a car himself), what is the most efficient way to get the exterior looking great? I've seen threads on the Ice Synthetic, but am not clear if I should try investing the time in traditional Carnauba instead. I also hear people mention other brands like Zaino, Collinite, and Meguires. Brand recommendations would be great, but I'm most interested in recommendations for strategy / what type of products in general, knowing I have limited time and am kind of a novice.



Really appreciate your feedback.
 
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/132078-who-wants-fill-arsenal-holes.html



This is what I've built up to so far from all the hours i spent on these forums...



Wash/clay/wash/compound/polish/IPA(if it needs more work do it and ipa again)/LSP



After that for I'd say 3-6 months(depending on how well your lsp holds) you should only need say a wash and light clay with application of LSP (wash maybe biweekly and wax maybe monthly)



Opinions will greatly vary depending on who you ask but this is MINE...



i mean...if you want to simplify it, I suppose wash/clay/wash/AIO/lsp
 
Forget the Turtle Wax stuff or the idea that you will get the car "looking great" with a wax alone. If the car is scratched/swirled like that, it needs to be polished, ie with a real, abrasive polish. The usual Autopian advice would be to buy a machine, etc. I suggest you go to Target or Wal-Mart and get a clay kit and a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and a bunch of microfiber or terry applicators. Wash, clay, and apply the Ultimate Compound. Using this product by hand will be tiring, but it will be the best bang for your arm-buck. Clean off excess residue promptly before it hardens, and really try to keep it off of rubber or textured trim. Change to a clean applicator frequently when the one you are using becomes soiled. Follow with whatever wax/sealant strikes your fancy, again, being very careful to keep it off of rubber or textured trim. If you don't have a lot of time, consider doing the car a portion at a time.



Unfortunately there is no free lunch or miracle products that will make the process of correcting an old swirled finish any easier. Another good option is to find a real Autopian detailer and let him do it. Where are you located?
 
Agree with Setec. His approach will give you good bang for the buck and can be done in a day. The cars you see that look amazing, all of the work is in the prep. The wax/sealant adds maybe 10% to the finaly product. I'll toss in my bit of advice, do a test spot, pick a 12x12" area, tape it off any try whatever approach you are going to use. If you are happy with that approach, multiply that time by 40-50 and you will have how long it takes for the whole vehicle.
 
I'm in the Boston area. But these days can't afford a pro detailing. That's why I'd like to venture into doing it myself, even if it's not as in depth as it ideally would be. Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated. I have to admit, it sounds kind of intimidating. I was certainly hoping for the quick fix! But I am going to give it a shot and will report back - perhaps even with some questions during the process. A portion at a time is what I'm going to try first (although obviously not a wait too long between portions). Wash - Clay Kit (from Wal-mart) - Meguiar's Ult. Compound - Wax/Sealant.



Any recommended wax/sealants, that aren't too expensive but work well and are somewhat easy to use? Thanks.
 
I use collinte 476(not a sealant per se but seems to outlast most) but BFWD (Black fire wet diamond) and opti-seal seem to be widely used





I should mention that IMO, depending on your budget, getting a DA would probably save you alot of time...people seem to like Griots and the Flex3401
 
dfwheels1 said:
Any recommended wax/sealants, that aren't too expensive but work well and are somewhat easy to use? Thanks.
Click to expand...



If you have a carquest nearby, Duragloss 105 is great. From Wal-Mart, Autoglym HD, its pricey but well worth it. If you can find it, Collinite 845 is fantastic for daily drivers.
 
a DA is a Dual action or orbital polisher--(it spins AND oscillates at the same time) because it disperses heat and so it runs cooler longer (well the pad anyways)
 
dfwheels1- Welcome to Autopia!



As noted, you should probably get the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. Do that test spot and inspect it in good lighting (including sunlight). Don't inspect under fluorescent light as you won't see issues that'll show up later (in better lighting).



For the wax/sealant (what we call "LSP" as in, Last Step Product), if you're even *remotely* intersted in saving money, get some of the Collinite. A can of 476S or a bottle of 845 Insulator Wax will last for years and they look fine (and shed dirt, and protect at least as well as most sealants), and both are downright inexpensive. Note that LSPs should be applied very thinly, just enough for uniform coverage. No need to use a whole ounce or anything like that.



If you can't find Collinite at your usual stores, check autobody/paint supply stores and shops that cater to the boat/marine trade.



Oh, and note that "swirls" and scratches usually come from the wash/dry process. Washing without instilling marring like that is very difficult and a whole complicated topic in-and-of itself.
 
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