New Shop Lights!!!
- Thread starter ZaneO
- Start date
Scott P
New member
I just installed two 4' lights yesterday. I'm going to run to the store and buy two more. I'm remodeling my garage in the near future, so I bought some cheap fixtures that will work in the cold temps. They were $8 each plus bulbs.
When I get my garage finished, it will feature 8 foot high output fluorescent fixtures and some halogens that can be aimed. But that stuff takes time to plan. The fixtures I bought can be easily used as supplemental lighting in the front of the shop or in the basement.
When I get my garage finished, it will feature 8 foot high output fluorescent fixtures and some halogens that can be aimed. But that stuff takes time to plan. The fixtures I bought can be easily used as supplemental lighting in the front of the shop or in the basement.
imported_Luster1
New member
My 4 shop light fixtures were part of my Christmas present from my wife.
They replaced 4 bare light bulbs.....
OH MY GOSH......My garage has been transformed into detailers heaven. With the white-painted walls, it's super-bright in there now.
I've done several of my customer's cars in my garage this winter, now that I can see!
One of my favorite upgrades!
They replaced 4 bare light bulbs.....
OH MY GOSH......My garage has been transformed into detailers heaven. With the white-painted walls, it's super-bright in there now.
I've done several of my customer's cars in my garage this winter, now that I can see!
One of my favorite upgrades!
imported_Malachi
New member
That looks great! Did you do it yourself? If not, can you tell us how much it cost?
imported_Aurora40
New member
I'm not sure what Romex is, so maybe that's it, but did you get those clear sleeves that go over the bulbs? They seemed like a good idea to me for the roughly $2-3 per bulb price. If a bulb ever shatters, they might really save the unfortunate car parked under it when it happens.
Our one-car garage is a tad wider, not painted (we are renting currently, though we just bought a nice two-car [though not autopian-sized two-car, but the rest of the house was what we loved]), and I put in two double-4' fluorescents. They really made a difference, so I can imagine how nice two more would be, especially with painted walls. Looks good. :xyxthumbs
It looks like the two front lights would be rendered useless if you ever wanted to work with the garage door open, though. But I imagine that's not a big deal, and that the lights might not be as effective if you fit them over on the side of the door frame.
Our one-car garage is a tad wider, not painted (we are renting currently, though we just bought a nice two-car [though not autopian-sized two-car, but the rest of the house was what we loved]), and I put in two double-4' fluorescents. They really made a difference, so I can imagine how nice two more would be, especially with painted walls. Looks good. :xyxthumbs
It looks like the two front lights would be rendered useless if you ever wanted to work with the garage door open, though. But I imagine that's not a big deal, and that the lights might not be as effective if you fit them over on the side of the door frame.
wifehatescar
My L5-S1 is killing me!
Would anyone be willing to do a quick write-up on how to wire up this type of thing? Or are their any websites that may have a diy project of this sort?
I have a single bay garage as well with an auto garage opener plugged into the ceiling electrical outlet, and a wall mounted switch for a single light bulb. I'd like to install some lights like the above but I'm a bit green on the wiring.
I have a single bay garage as well with an auto garage opener plugged into the ceiling electrical outlet, and a wall mounted switch for a single light bulb. I'd like to install some lights like the above but I'm a bit green on the wiring.
tom p.
Active member
I've got hi-output tubes (8') in my strip lighting. They work much better when the weather is cold but cost a few bux more. :up
Scott P
New member
I took a class at a local techinical school on household electric. Best $200 I spent. I feel much more confident when messing with Mr. Electricity.
Wiring is quite easy, but you should learn the basics before attempting things yourself. Black is Hot, White is neutral and copper is ground. A red wire is typically a switched lead. I'm sure there are some tutorials online that can help you out. Or, you can buy a book in the hardware store when you buy your lights.
Wiring is quite easy, but you should learn the basics before attempting things yourself. Black is Hot, White is neutral and copper is ground. A red wire is typically a switched lead. I'm sure there are some tutorials online that can help you out. Or, you can buy a book in the hardware store when you buy your lights.
wifehatescar
My L5-S1 is killing me!
Thanks. I'm a Mechanical Engineer so I can turn the screw ok but not so much on twisting the wires 
I'm assuming I can turn the single lightbulb socket into a electric plug socket but I have to look into that.
I'm assuming I can turn the single lightbulb socket into a electric plug socket but I have to look into that.
ATTENTION: I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL AND NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
First off, I bought the lights, bulbs, wing twists, Romex 14/2 gauge, electrical tape, and screws.
I used the light bulb socket in the garage to tie all the lights into.
This job is made much easier if someone can help you.
1. To start, assemble the leads, etc on the lights and get them ready to mount. There will be a perforated circle in the middle of the light assembly that you need to pop out.
2. Once the lights are ready to mount, flip the breaker off, take out the light bulb, and unscrew the light bulb assembly.
3. Now figure out where you want to mount the lights and use a small screw driver to make a hole in the ceiling where you can locate it in the attic (the hole will be covered up by the light).
4. Use that reference hole to measure to your closest stud and also measure the distance between studs (approx. 16 in.). Now, go back down and use the measurement to locate your first mounting point on the stud. Mark that spot. Take your light assembly and put it on the ceiling and use one of the small holes in the assembly to put your first screw in the stud. Measure down the assembly (in my case 32 in.) to screw the second screw into the stud. Two screws were sufficient for my lights.
5. Now, using the hole in the middle of the assembly (the perforated circle you removed earlier) use a large screw driver to make a good sized hole. It needs to be large enough to fit the Romex through. Take the Romex into the attic and cut enough Romex to reach from the socket to reach the light, plus about 8 in. Go back down and attach the black wire to the black wire and the white wire to the white wire using the wing twists, and then attach the copper to the ground screw in the light assembly. Now you can put the light cover over the ballast and wires.
Repeat steps 1,3,4, and 5 for the remainder of your lights. When finished, move to step 6.
6. In the attic, attach all black wires together, all the white wires together, and all the copper ground wires together with the wing twists, including the wires from the bulb socket (the wires from the switch). Make sure to use electrical tape very generously over the wing twists when finished.
Now you are ready to install the bulbs, turn the breaker back on, and test the lights.
First off, I bought the lights, bulbs, wing twists, Romex 14/2 gauge, electrical tape, and screws.
I used the light bulb socket in the garage to tie all the lights into.
This job is made much easier if someone can help you.
1. To start, assemble the leads, etc on the lights and get them ready to mount. There will be a perforated circle in the middle of the light assembly that you need to pop out.
2. Once the lights are ready to mount, flip the breaker off, take out the light bulb, and unscrew the light bulb assembly.
3. Now figure out where you want to mount the lights and use a small screw driver to make a hole in the ceiling where you can locate it in the attic (the hole will be covered up by the light).
4. Use that reference hole to measure to your closest stud and also measure the distance between studs (approx. 16 in.). Now, go back down and use the measurement to locate your first mounting point on the stud. Mark that spot. Take your light assembly and put it on the ceiling and use one of the small holes in the assembly to put your first screw in the stud. Measure down the assembly (in my case 32 in.) to screw the second screw into the stud. Two screws were sufficient for my lights.
5. Now, using the hole in the middle of the assembly (the perforated circle you removed earlier) use a large screw driver to make a good sized hole. It needs to be large enough to fit the Romex through. Take the Romex into the attic and cut enough Romex to reach from the socket to reach the light, plus about 8 in. Go back down and attach the black wire to the black wire and the white wire to the white wire using the wing twists, and then attach the copper to the ground screw in the light assembly. Now you can put the light cover over the ballast and wires.
Repeat steps 1,3,4, and 5 for the remainder of your lights. When finished, move to step 6.
6. In the attic, attach all black wires together, all the white wires together, and all the copper ground wires together with the wing twists, including the wires from the bulb socket (the wires from the switch). Make sure to use electrical tape very generously over the wing twists when finished.
Now you are ready to install the bulbs, turn the breaker back on, and test the lights.
ruralroute1
New member
Here is a link to a forum that is worth the bookmark for anyone inclined to work on their own spaces, garage, home, or whatever...I find it a useful reference to have access to and also an interesting 'read' when researching projects around the house.
http://www.handymanwire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?Cat=
Hope it helps!
http://www.handymanwire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?Cat=
Hope it helps!