Ronkh
Wax Waster
It's your fault
New Rinseless wash mitt
- Thread starter Ronkh
- Start date
It's your fault
PA DETAILER
DETAILED TODAY?
With the release of this "new mitt" I understand why I've been so pleased with my method of doing rinseless washes for the last 10 years. I use these mitts:
[/IMG]
They have the same very soft "open ended nap" as the new mitt. I remove the stitching that creates the finger pocket so that I can insert a grout sponge and move it from mitt to mitt. Holds allot of water that you can control by just squeezing as you want more or less. With the grout sponge inserted it acts like a pad that you can just let glide over the surface with just the weight of the pad. You can wash a small area with one side then flip it over and rewash that area again or move to a second area if the car isn't too dirty. At $3.50 each you can have a few and then throw them all in the wash with your other towels.
They have the same very soft "open ended nap" as the new mitt. I remove the stitching that creates the finger pocket so that I can insert a grout sponge and move it from mitt to mitt. Holds allot of water that you can control by just squeezing as you want more or less. With the grout sponge inserted it acts like a pad that you can just let glide over the surface with just the weight of the pad. You can wash a small area with one side then flip it over and rewash that area again or move to a second area if the car isn't too dirty. At $3.50 each you can have a few and then throw them all in the wash with your other towels.
52split
New member
I think quality plush microfibers are as good if not better. You have a total of 8 sides of the towel to use. One side for one panel. I have been washing my car using INFINITE USE DETAIL JUICE using the Garry Dean Wash Method for several years now. Using 5-6 quality plush microfibers is the best method of doing a Rinseless wash. Why? Because a dirty wash media is NEVER reintroduced into the clean wash solution bucket.
Using a grit guard can never remove 100% of the dirt off the just used mitt. Don't think anyone can believe 100% is removed. So how do you come about never washing a new panel with a dirty media device? Always use a "new" wash media on every panel. Maybe OCD here, but I think OCD is the name of the game on Autopia. Just my $.02.
Using a grit guard can never remove 100% of the dirt off the just used mitt. Don't think anyone can believe 100% is removed. So how do you come about never washing a new panel with a dirty media device? Always use a "new" wash media on every panel. Maybe OCD here, but I think OCD is the name of the game on Autopia. Just my $.02.
Ronkh
Wax Waster
With the release of this "new mitt" I understand why I've been so pleased with my method of doing rinseless washes for the last 10 years. I use these mitts:
[/IMG]
They have the same very soft "open ended nap" as the new mitt. I remove the stitching that creates the finger pocket so that I can insert a grout sponge and move it from mitt to mitt. Holds allot of water that you can control by just squeezing as you want more or less. With the grout sponge inserted it acts like a pad that you can just let glide over the surface with just the weight of the pad. You can wash a small area with one side then flip it over and rewash that area again or move to a second area if the car isn't too dirty. At $3.50 each you can have a few and then throw them all in the wash with your other towels.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krD4hdGvGHM
Love the idea of the grout sponge inside....
Ronkh
Wax Waster
Also agree, but I find myself using more of my dread mitt than numerous towels........
I'm so confused.......
assout:
52split
New member
Also agree, but I find myself using more of my dread mitt than numerous towels........
I'm so confused.......
I use 4-5 CarPro's Microfiber Madness towels during my wash and only uncontaminated wash medi/solution touches ever panel.
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
Still got my address?
Ronkh
Wax Waster
52split
New member
Accumulator
Well-known member
52split- Could you give me the, uhm...condensed version of Garry's updated wash method? Much as I like supporting the guy and his business I'm not gonna sit through a lengthy video...
52split
New member
Ok...here's the Cliff Note version...
Fill a bucket with 2-3 gallons of IUDJ mixture with 5-6 plush microfiber towels.
Fill an HVLP paint sprayer with a mixture of IUDJ. Set compressor to highest output PSI and spray one panel with the HVLP sprayer. This breaks up the dirt and grime nicely prior to touching the paint. Next wipe down the panel with one side of the microfiber towel that has been soaking in the IUDJ solution. Dry panel with quality drying towel and move on to next panel until you are done with car.
If the vehicle is "fairly" clean, you can spray the panel with a regular spray bottle filled with the IUDJ mixture. I like to error on the side of caution so always use the HVLP sprayer. Works like a charm and leaves no additional marring.
While speed is not a priority for me, it is a nice bonus. I can usually wash my car (paint, wheels, wheel wells) in 60-75 minutes. Take into account that my vehicles get washed weekly and garage kept at the house.
During the winter I do "traditional washes" but still use the 5-6 microfiber towels in a bucket of CarPro Reset with each panel getting a "new" side of the microfiber towel.
I think the biggest benefit is not reintroducing a used/dirty wash media back into the clean wash solution bucket. Breaking up the existing dirt on the panel is accomplished nicely with the HVLP sprayer.
Bunky
Detailing Gnosis
After looking at Nick's write up again, I would describe it more like a fuller version of the Meg's mitt rather than the PakShak. The PakShak had finer loops.
For rinseless, the Meg's have the least drag of what I have used (noodles. PakShak deep pile, Duragloss) and think the drag is dense mat just adding contact area rather than poor quality microfiber.
For rinseless, the Meg's have the least drag of what I have used (noodles. PakShak deep pile, Duragloss) and think the drag is dense mat just adding contact area rather than poor quality microfiber.
MiVor
New member
ERROR: Gary used 1/4oz. IDJ to 1 gallon of water in the bucket. In my opinion he's gone over the top with the big Harbor Freight air compressor spraying his juice/air on the car. I guess it works but not something I'd invest in! I think the idea of using multiple towels is fine, but then again, I think rinsing a towel in a rinse bucket works too since any grit sinks to the bottom.
I still like my method of spraying a concentrated rinseless ([2-4oz/quart water] - as though I was just detailing) and using a clean water, wet WW wipe, followed by a dry MF wipe. I'm not sure yet but I may switch to a clean water nappy mitt wet wipe as a trial.
-Mike
I still like my method of spraying a concentrated rinseless ([2-4oz/quart water] - as though I was just detailing) and using a clean water, wet WW wipe, followed by a dry MF wipe. I'm not sure yet but I may switch to a clean water nappy mitt wet wipe as a trial.
-Mike
I agree. ..I started using a tank sprayer with Chemical Guys Hose Free Wash mix. I'll spray the whole car down and reapply if it starts drying on me. Then a bucket with water. .maybe just a capful of wash in it for the mitt. 2 buckets if the cars really dirty.
52split
New member
Most auto enthusiasts should have a compressor of some kind anyway. For general car maintenance, wood working, or general diy stuff. Using compressed air is going to dislodge dirt better than just a spray bottle. I've tried it and let me tell you, night and day difference. Spraying the panel with 90-100 psi is way safer than using a regular spray bottle.
52split
New member
Ask so, when reusing a microfiber towel can you positively say 100% of the dirt was rinsed away? And when you are done with another panel and rinse off that same towel in "dirty" water can you positively say all the previous dirt fell to the bottom and none is floating near the surface to contaminate the towel?
For me, removing the most variables out of the equation means a safer wash method. While no method is perfect, removing the contamination variable is key. I only want to deal with dirt that is on the car, not dirt that I removed several panels ago and is resurfacing to cause issues (marring).
To each his own, but using compressed air pressure to break up dirt and have it flow to the ground (a good portion anyways) and never contaminating your wash solution and only using clean, uncompromised wash media is the safest way to go.
For me, removing the most variables out of the equation means a safer wash method. While no method is perfect, removing the contamination variable is key. I only want to deal with dirt that is on the car, not dirt that I removed several panels ago and is resurfacing to cause issues (marring).
To each his own, but using compressed air pressure to break up dirt and have it flow to the ground (a good portion anyways) and never contaminating your wash solution and only using clean, uncompromised wash media is the safest way to go.
trashmanssd
New member
That new Gary Dean method made me realize thank god I live where you can use water. That doesn't look like it would save me any effort or time than a 2 bucket wash with foam cannon and power washer.
52split
New member
And for your "ERROR" comment: I'm like Accumalator...I always use a stronger mixture.