New paint -- Tips?

brwill2005- Hope you don't take this a :argue as I just genuinely find it an interesting topic to discuss.



I wonder why Dr. G is against using abrasives while the paint is curing :think: Yeah, you have to be careful *which* ones you use, but that's just because the paint is sometimes very soft. From wetsanding to compounding/final polishing, I've abraded fresh paint countless times. Only problem I ever had was with *super* soft RM brand b/c that was too soft for even #80 for the first month or so (I just used something milder and it worked fine). Perhaps it's a matter of some abrasive products containing strong solvents, in which case it's just a matter of picking the right product.



I for one accept that OCW just might be one more product that's perfectly OK to use on a fresh repaint. I just wish I could see technical/controlled/etc. documentation about it. Ford says it's OK, but a) Ford clear never gets as hard as the stuff on most of my vehicles and b) without being able to see the results of proper tests I won't quite blind-trust Ford Motor Co. (sorry, that's just me and is based on stuff unrelated to this topic).



I know stuff that's "paintable" (e.g. Meg's #5) is OK from decades of first-hand experience with all types of repaints, and I guess guys like BigJimZ28 and myself are tough sells when we have that sort of experience and have to take somebody else's word for some other approach's being OK.



I sure don't doubt Dr. G's expertise, nor that of the guys at FK, nor Sal Zaino's. I don't even think they'd stretch the truth just to sell products, though that's just an optimistic guess. But without the results of controlled tests, I just won't take *anybody's* word over my first-hand experience (on this subject or most any other) :nixweiss I realize how that might come across, and it's one reason I now take a deep breath before I respond on threads like this.



I really wish somebody would get a panel painted with something like Spiess-Hecker, wait a month, and then use the various products on it and see if they make a difference in the hardness after another 90 days or so. I just don't care enough to do it myself :o
 
Nice debate here -- Good information.



The good thing about the repaint areas is that they are already somewhat 'shiney' being, well, freshly painted and clear coated. So it isn't a 'matte' finish we are talking about.



I am not going to seal the paint for at least a month, and have it out in the sun as much as possible. (Garage kept at night).



You are right, the autoparts stores.. Auto zone, Adv. Autoparts, Walmart, Napa -- Don't have a thing I can use.



I couldn't even find a car wash I felt safe using. So there are water drops seaping in on the new paint in spots, and so on.



I would like to simply be able to clean the areas, and I'll use NXT 2.0 on the other 4/5th's of the vehicle.



I'd really like to get things locally.. but the specific number Meg's isn't available here. I've seen a certain number Meg at a walmart but it was just by chance.



The only wash I thought might be safe was the cheap Meguier's (pink/purple label) carwash mix concentrate. Says safe for all finishes and so on. Is this a good wash to buy to wash the entire car?



For cleaning the painted areas with a 'glaze' -- I suppose I will have to order something online,.. I would just think some sort of OTC glaze would exist in my local stores, but apparently not.



I will order today -- If the wash I speak of isn't safe,.. recommend some reasonably priced washes for a general carwash that are safe, and a 'spot' spray on cleaner for the fresh paint areas that is safe. (Links would be fantastic) :)



I found a Meg's kit at Walmart with NXT 2.0 in it for $24 -- It has like 5 Meg's products in it, and seems like a great deal. I think I might go for that just due to the price, and then order the wash (if what I mentioned isn't safe), and definitely the spot cleaner (a glaze I assume for the painted areas).



Thanks,
 
Neofate said:
.. the autoparts stores.. Auto zone, Adv. Autoparts, Walmart, Napa -- Don't have a thing I can use.



I couldn't even find a car wash I felt safe using..For cleaning the painted areas with a 'glaze' -- I suppose I will have to order something online,.. I would just think some sort of OTC glaze would exist in my local stores, but apparently not...
Click to expand...



For a glaze, you oughta be able to find Meg's Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish. It's OK for this and is sorta a cheap version of #7/#81. I suspect the Deep Crystal wash is OK, even if it's not as good (generally speaking) as Gold Class. I dunno for certain if Gold Class is OK,I'd *guess* that it is. I've never had any problems using "non-wax-containing" washes on fresh paint.



See if there's an autobody/paint supply place in your area, they'll have Meg's #00 or #62 and other stuff as well. Almost *every* town has one as smaller bodyshops seldom get stuff shipped from far away. People sometimes feel weird going to places like that, but even my mom got her detailing stuff that way.
 
Hrmm so the deep crystal wash is definitely 'ok' ? Great, that is cheap stuff and I'm sure it does the job well enough. (I consider a wash many times just enough to get the major grime off) -- Because half the time I'm immediately waxing after it which cleans the surface in and of itself. Which I'll be waxing again this next time just because I want to use NXT 2.0 vs 1.0 I have on now. (I wonder when the next time I'll just wash the dang thing will be lol) Seems like I've been doing a full detail job every week for 2 months now :)



As for the paint supply.. I won't feel odd going in there.. they will take my money just like anyone else, even if I'm spending 10-20$ instead of hundreds/thousands as they are used to.



I guess I'll have to look in the yellow pages.. good idea. This is the largest city in the state, bound to have one around somewhere.
 
Neofate said:
Hrmm so the deep crystal wash is definitely 'ok' ?..
Click to expand...



I'm gonna back off and eat my words to *some* extent here....I can't imagine it *NOT* being OK, but I can't *guarantee* it's safe. I guess you oughta call Meg's and ask one of their customer service guys (hope you get a good one ;) ).



The potential problem is something not-fresh-paint-safe getting and staying on the paint. I can't imagine that happening with either the DC or GC washes. People say Griot's leaves a little something behind but I've sure never had any problems using that. I guess it's a matter of how safe you need to feel for peace of mind.



I'd go track down some #62/#00 (and #00 is the *safest* bet) at an autobody/paint store. Who knows what *else* you might find there, it can be like a candy store ;)
 
i just got my hood repainted a month ago..and polished it with #80 as meguiar's said it is okay to use #80..now I just realized that my half or some part of my car has an effect like tiny waves..not swirls type...i will try to post a pic later...
 
Yeah, even an autozone can feel like a candy store to me. Hardware store.. you name it :)



Thanks though -- I understand your caution there, you don't want to be responsible for a rare 'I used this, and my paint melted right off' scenario :)



Radicalrev: How soon did you polish with the #80, and was it by hand or ?
 
about 2 weeks after i got it back from the body shop...here are the pictures:



2000659251520402698_rs.jpg




2001313948517721406_rs.jpg




I ask around in Meguiar's forum as I was using their product...and I guess the wave-like swirls are "finishing" sanding marks from a DA....and a rotary with a compound would have fix it...oh well...just my luck as it is hard to trust the body shop again and got I got no skill for the rotary...lol
 
Hrmm I'm far from an expert, but that looks like the actual paint broke up under there. But again.. I am most likely dead wrong.



I'm not going to put anything on my paint for at least a month and definitely not use a rotary/PC type (machine of any kind) on it for a while after that. However I can't tell if you say a rotary and compound would fix the marks now, or it *would* have fixed them?



Anyhow, a detail shop should be able to use their 'rotary' skills for a reasonable price just on the hood if that is the case.
 
A rotary will be able to fix it right now...reasonable price?? lol...i doubt they want to do only a foot by foot of the hood only...



what do you mean by the actual paint broke up??
 
Just from the image. Sometimes when new paint is sealed early it is suffocated, and in trying to out-gas it releases itself wherever it can. Which creates immense pressure under the seal, and creates pressure points. Which pop up as tiny holes, cracks and so forth. Though I can't see it in person or in detail.. so if you say it is just some marring then that is what it is :)



As for a detail shop -- yes, absolutely they will fix a 1x1 spot. They might quote you an hour labor ,.. but if they are reputable they wouldn't. Even then you can consider this an under 50$ fix from rotary 'skills'.



A typical detail shop runs 35-85$ an hour in labor. usually under $50. If you just want that spot done and not the rest of the hood, or car etc.. Just speak with the owner/manager and let him know what is up. See if he can work you in real quick. They can throw some polish/compound on and work that out in minutes if it is able to be done by rotary.
 
FWIW I've had fresh repaints that were too soft for the (admitedly mild) initial cut of #80, had to use milder stuff. The same paint hardened up with time to where I no longer had the problem.



Radicalrev- Hard to tell from just pictues, but that sorta looks like a problem with the basecoat to me...might want to see what the paintshop says about it.
 
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