new guy here. how can i do this better?

R

renzo

New member
So I'm relatively new to car detailing. I finally had the balls to use my DA polisher last December and while the results weren't perfect, I was excited enough about how much cleaner my car's paint was.

This has led me here.

I've been watching videos, reading articles and learning from a couple friends on how to clean and protect my car. Now I'd like to open it up to the forums to get more views on what I can do better and how I can make detailing easier for myself.

Here's what I'm currently using/doing:

Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Clear w/ foam gun
Eagle One Wax as you dry
Meguiars Clay bar
Megs Microfiber Paint Correction System
CG Jet Seal

I switched from the 2 bucket wash method to foam gun & boar's brush method. I don't have a boar's brush so I'm substituting it with a microfiber sponge. I'm able to wash my car quicker and haven't noticed any new scratches being introduced to my paint.

I have 2 cars. An RSX-S daily driver and an S2000 track rat. So my goals are to adequately protect each for what I'm using them for.
 
If that works for you, stick with it. When you run out of Wax-As-U-Dry (WAUD) you might want to try Duragloss Aquawax or Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (or the bulk version, D156).
 
Sounds like you have a good process in place. I also would like to second Setec with the recommendation of Aquawax or D156.

Former Honda guy here. Those paint systems are soft!

Post up some photos of your vehicles.
 
Sounds like a solid setup to me. For more gloss and boosting power, you could add a good topper QD or spray wax once in a while. CG V07 looks great and should be compatible with Jet Seal. Other liquid toppers with good gloss are Finish Kare 425, Poorboy's QD+, and the already-mentioned Megs Ultimate Quick Wax, but I think you'll love the CG V7.
 
Prep, prep, prep gives you ur best shine. May I suggest a decontamination process after washing and before claying. Ironx , Optimum Ferrax.
 
I'm assuming the spray wax you are doing when you dry is during your decontamination process? If so, I would pass on that (save it for your maintenance 2BM washes after the detail). Go straight from the wash to clay. You don't want to add a layer of protection on the paint during the process of trying to remove those layers.

I am also wondering if you need something as aggressive as the Megs MF for those paint systems? You might try dropping down to some orange and white foam pads and some Megs UC/UP or M105/M205?

Just a couple thoughts from my perspective.
 
+2 on Duragloss Aquawax and Megs Ultimate Spray wax.

You might want to extend your wash repertoire to include a no rinse method. I'm a 'fan' of Optimum No Rinse (ONR). I do it a little differently. I mix with distilled water 1-2oz in a quart spray bottle. My bucket is filled with warm tap water and I wet a waffle weave MF towel. I spray a panel with the ONR mix and wipe off with the WW MF towel, followed by a quality dry MF towel. I turn and rinse the WW MF as needed - works great!
(In winter I sometimes do the above following a (coin-op) pressure wash pre-rinse.
 
wdmaccord said:
I'm assuming the spray wax you are doing when you dry is during your decontamination process? If so, I would pass on that (save it for your maintenance 2BM washes after the detail). Go straight from the wash to clay. You don't want to add a layer of protection on the paint during the process of trying to remove those layers.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I meant to say the spray wax was used for my maintenance washes.

What kind of process do you guys have for decontamination? Is it anymore involved than just claying?
 
MiVor said:
You might want to extend your wash repertoire to include a no rinse method. I'm a 'fan' of Optimum No Rinse (ONR). I do it a little differently. I mix with distilled water 1-2oz in a quart spray bottle. My bucket is filled with warm tap water and I wet a waffle weave MF towel. I spray a panel with the ONR mix and wipe off with the WW MF towel, followed by a quality dry MF towel. I turn and rinse the WW MF as needed - works great!
(In winter I sometimes do the above following a (coin-op) pressure wash pre-rinse.
Click to expand...

I've been very interested in a no rinse wash especially with the California drought. Would you recommend a no rinse wash more for maintenance only or could it also be effective on really filthy cars? Or perhaps not so wide a range?
 
wdmaccord said:
I am also wondering if you need something as aggressive as the Megs MF for those paint systems? You might try dropping down to some orange and white foam pads and some Megs UC/UP or M105/M205?
Click to expand...

I only purchased the Megs MF as a starter kit. I'm not too familiar with the levels of abrasiveness right now. Is there any good reference material that shows how aggressive different products are? As well as the differences with respect to hard and soft paint between cars (German, Japanese, American, etc)?
 
renzo said:
What kind of process do you guys have for decontamination? Is it anymore involved than just claying?
Click to expand...

I use ValuGard's "ABC" system, made specifically for this,tested and approved by all the major automakers. Safe, proven, effective, and basically as easy as doing a series of three washes.

These days I pretty much only use (very mild) clay to "clean my LSP", not for genuine decontamination.
 
renzo said:
I've been very interested in a no rinse wash especially with the California drought. Would you recommend a no rinse wash more for maintenance only or could it also be effective on really filthy cars? Or perhaps not so wide a range?
Click to expand...
We'd have to define "really filthy". Like a really dirty street ride with dust, pollen and road splash vs. an off road truck covered in mud.
I think you can do an ONR wash most of the time on a street ride as long as you're extra careful in towel turning and rinsing in the lower crud regions. But it's always a judgement call.

I sometimes use the pressure washer to clean the tires and power rinse the vehicle, especially the lower regions, then ONR wash the truck. If/when I do a wet wash instead, I'll add an ounce of ONR with wash soap in the bucket for extra slickness to better ensure grit slides off easily.
 
The whole rinseless washing thing seems to be subjective in that different people (i.e., the subjects) get different results. In my case, I'm far from the dullest knife in the drawer but I can't avoid marring to my satisfaction if I do 100% rinseless washes. Now if there's a pressure washer rewash, tha can be different...and pressure washers are pretty good with regard to water consumption.

But of course, when we're talking serious drought conditions, stuff like "avoiding marring when you wash your car" might not be the highest priority....
 
Look at some other options for the clay. I used to clay all the time...then I switched to Nanoskin Autoscrub mit (and there are other brands. types, and styles), and it cut my time in half, if not more. Then recently I moved to more of a decon process using IronX and TarX (again, there are other brands)...and this cut even more time off and got the vehicle cleaner in the process. So take a look at some Decon stuff and I think you'd be real happy. Try a Nanoskin mit (fine/blue) and see if you don't love it.
 
cobrar97 said:
Look at some other options for the clay. I used to clay all the time...then I switched to Nanoskin Autoscrub mit (and there are other brands. types, and styles), and it cut my time in half, if not more. Then recently I moved to more of a decon process using IronX and TarX (again, there are other brands)...and this cut even more time off and got the vehicle cleaner in the process. So take a look at some Decon stuff and I think you'd be real happy. Try a Nanoskin mit (fine/blue) and see if you don't love it.
Click to expand...

I actually have a mid grade Nanoskin towel. I love the fact that it covers more surface area but do you find that it doesn't pick up as much dirt as clay? I don't know if it's because it's a mid grade perhaps? I've used it on cars that haven't been clayed or waxed in a LONG time and then do a final round of "claying" with actual clay. I find the clay still picks up a noticeable amount of dirt still.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top