Need some pros to confirm my "new" routine

[ruleof72]

OK, my Griot's DA is showing up tomorrow and I'm really looking forward to using it. :waxing:Before I fire it up and go to work on our cars I want to make sure I've got everything correct as far as what products I'm using and when. Here's what I plan on doing:

1. Wash with ONR
   
2. Clay to remove any remaining contaminents
   
3. Wash again with ONR
   
4. DG 105
   
5. Opti-Seal
   
6. Top with AW or OCW
   

Both cars are in good shape without visible swirl marks so I don't think I need to do any real heavy "correction".



Here are some questions I've come up with:

-Is there anything I'm missing here?

-Do I need a "real" polish or will 105 work fine?

-Any other suggested sealants besides the Opti-Seal?



The cars are Mazda "silver" and VW "white gold" I'm shooting for a bird-bomb resistant "wet look" if at all possible.

 

[Accumulator]

ruleof72- I think what you have proposed is fine, at least for now.



Do you have some marring after all...something you'll only notice in certain lighting that some Autopians would say you oughta correct? Beats me, but I don't think you should look for problems that you don't know you have



Just do what you have planned, see how it goes and how satisfied you are with the results.



BTW, some Mazda clearcoats are *THIN* so it's a good idea to take it easy anyhow. Most VW clears are pretty hard, so if you do want to really correct that one you'll be going down a different road...but again, I just wouldn't worry about that.

 

[ruleof72]

ruleof72- I think what you have proposed is fine, at least for now.



Do you have some marring after all...something you'll only notice in certain lighting that some Autopians would say you oughta correct? Beats me, but I don't think you should look for problems that you don't know you have



Just do what you have planned, see how it goes and how satisfied you are with the results.



BTW, some Mazda clearcoats are *THIN* so it's a good idea to take it easy anyhow. Most VW clears are pretty hard, so if you do want to really correct that one you'll be going down a different road...but again, I just wouldn't worry about that.

I've looked pretty hard and I can't see any marring on either car. The Mazda is going on 4 yrs old and I've kept a pretty regular regimen of ONR, 105 and AW with it. The VW is brand new and I've only washed it 2x so far. Thanks for the heads up on the Mazda clearcoat, I'll keep that in mind.

 

[Darkstar752]

Here's my contributions, take out step 3. What are you claying with? I usually use diluted ONR for clay lube, wipe off after a panel and it's dry and you're ready to polish without the extra wash. Get a real polish to use, DG105 AFAIK is just a cleaner/sealant mixed into one. Just because you can't see the swirl marks doesn't mean they aren't there, especially on the lighter colored paints your cars have. Not saying you need to do a "heavy" correction, but a light polish will certainly brighten things up! Thinking 106FA or something along those lines.



Also, I wouldn't use a sealant then another sealant. Stick with the normal Sealant than wax combo if you're going to do that, and I would wait a full day to let the sealant cure and then top it with a wax. For bird bomb resistance, you'll definitely want a wax of some sort on top, due to the way they function. Sealants bond with the paint, so birdbombs go easier through the sealant and directly into the paint. Carnauba wax will provide better protection against bird bombs since it doesn't per say bond directly with the paint, so the bird bomb will have to eat through the wax before it gets to the paint. However, due to the tiny pores carnauba has in it, pollen barbs catch on and stick easier so it's a trade-off either way.



Good luck with the detail!

 

[Accumulator]

I've looked pretty hard and I can't see any marring on either car..

Good, now *quit looking*



Spend enough time here at Autopia, and enough time inspecting, and...well...you know.

 

[Scottwax]

You shouldn't need to wash after claying, 105 and AW or OCW will look really good.



If the paint is in good shape, I agree, need to correct. Keep up the proper washing regiment and you may never have to do a real correction. That's always better!

 

[Jesstzn]

Instead of washing after claying do a 50/50 rubbing Alcohol/Water wipe down. This will give a good clean surface for the sealant to bond to.

 

[Accumulator]

If the paint is in good shape, I agree, need to correct...

You meant to type "I agree, *NO* need to correct", right

Instead of washing after claying do a 50/50 rubbing Alcohol/Water wipe down.

IMO if the surface does need cleaning after the claying, I'd rather use something with better lubricity than the IPA..just one of my pet peeves regarding IPA in general, there's like *zero* lubricity and/or encapsulation so it's not my fave for this one.

 

[Jesstzn]

You meant to type "I agree, *NO* need to correct", right







IMO if the surface does need cleaning after the claying, I'd rather use something with better lubricity than the IPA..just one of my pet peeves regarding IPA in general, there's like *zero* lubricity and/or encapsulation so it's not my fave for this one.

And I disagree with you ... Your dealing with a clean surface so should have nothing to encapsulate and on top of it if your doing the wipe with a quality MF and done lightly, which is all thats needed and not "scrubbing" there is no issue.



What are you then suggesting thats not going to involve the OP buying another product like Klasse AIO or PoliSeal and still not leave a residue like a QD etc.



Sometimes in here we tend to over analyze things to the point where the possibility of the 1/100 becomes the norm.



BTW I do the wipe on every car I do and have never had an issue like your speculating. The wipe is quick, easy, low $$ and very effective and leaves nothing to cross contaminate the sealant your going to use.

 

[Accumulator]

And I disagree with you ... Your dealing with a clean surface so should have nothing to encapsulate and on top of it if your doing the wipe with a quality MF and done lightly, which is all thats needed and not "scrubbing" there is no issue...

OK, if it's really clean and there's no fear of marring/etc. from, say....clay residue, then you're absolutely right. I'd just worry that some of the residue might cause issues. Eh, I'm possibly too paranoid about that....

What are you then suggesting thats not going to involve the OP buying another product like Klasse AIO or PoliSeal and still not leave a residue like a QD etc.

I generally do go that route myself, but "clean" QDs like M34 would'nt cause problems and some QDs are compatible with some LSPs (e.g., FK126/425 and FK1000P).



I was more thinking to just do some kind of rewash of the panel, even just the originally proposed ONR redo.



Another, similar, approach is to use an alcohol-based window cleaner. I hadn't done that for ages, but after Barry Theal mentioned it I used Zep40 and it worked great.

Sometimes in here we tend to over analyze things to the point where the possibility of the 1/100 becomes the norm...

Yeah, I do tend to over analyze stuff This might well be a case of that.

BTW I do the wipe on every car I do and have never had an issue like your speculating. The wipe is quick, easy, low $$ and very effective and leaves nothing to cross contaminate the sealant your going to use.

You're not alone, lots of people are 100% satisfied with IPA for all sorts of things.



Heh heh, and here I had been encouraging ruleof72 to *NOT* overcomplicate this stuff, only to switch gears on him and go off the deep end myself

 

[ruleof72]

Instead of washing after claying do a 50/50 rubbing Alcohol/Water wipe down. This will give a good clean surface for the sealant to bond to.

I've seen other people recommend this. Maybe I'll give it a try and see how it works.

Yeah, I do tend to over analyze stuff This might well be a case of that.



Heh heh, and here I had been encouraging ruleof72 to *NOT* overcomplicate this stuff, only to switch gears on him and go off the deep end myself

Don't worry about it. I tend to do the same thing (over analyze things). You guys have been very helpful. My DA arrived today so I should be able to give it a go in the next week or so. Maybe I'll do some before and after pics and post them.