Need help with the first time using HD UNO & Polish

RZJZA80 said:
Actually, it wasn't my expectations as I don't expect an AIO to particularly cut much on it's own, but then again I'm used to using Klasse. An AIO to me is used after polishing/compounding, etc.. to clean off anything they left, add more shine, and leave behind protection. Again, I didn't have any expectations, just for the product to live up to what was advertised, which for the most part, it has.
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And that is the problem, many people have various definitions for AIOs. Mine is to clean, polish and seal. KAIO isn't a traditional AIO by that def, its a paint cleaner with some protection built in. My expectation for an AIO is to provide a nice surface cleaning and shine after a wash and clay. i use IPA where you use AIO.
 
Dan said:
And that is the problem, many people have various definitions for AIOs. Mine is to clean, polish and seal. KAIO isn't a traditional AIO by that def, its a paint cleaner with some protection built in. My expectation for an AIO is to provide a nice surface cleaning and shine after a wash and clay. i use IPA where you use AIO.
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Precisely! IPA can be finicky for me on certain paints, and add to that the chance of inducing marring while doing an IPA wipedown, and I go to KAIO to clean everything up and see what's going on. ALthough I'll disagree on one thing, it gives more than just some protection, at least for me.
 
Thomas Dekany said:
John has the new HD UNO I believe.
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yes i have the new version-was working on a tan/beige toyota corrolla-probably around a 95-2000 model,not soft paint at all-if anything it was rockhard.just could not get the swirls out with the equiptment and pads i had.it was my first time useing hd.just curius how many section passes would be a good reference point since you can run it a long time assuming its smat.what should i be lookin for?

thanks
 
JOHN BAKER said:
yes i have the new version-was working on a tan/beige toyota corrolla-probably around a 95-2000 model,not soft paint at all-if anything it was rockhard.just could not get the swirls out with the equiptment and pads i had.it was my first time useing hd.just curius how many section passes would be a good reference point since you can run it a long time assuming its smat.what should i be lookin for?

thanks
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Are you fairly familiar with the cut of Megs 105? I know you mentioned D300, so maybe someone else can translate, but for me take 105 and UNO, and you have to do nearly 2x the passes with UNO as 105 on hard paint to get similar results. There is no way to say anything more than that, mild swirls to you might mean deep rids to someone else.
 
RZJZA80 said:
David, the following is what I was referring to earlier:
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No comment other then I really have no clue what he's talking about? Not sure where he's coming from in some of his other statements either.
 
Most of the time the issue is over application of UNO. Especially if you prime the pad - UNO doesn't need it. What happens is you reduce the cut. Use less, polish slower. How was the paint when you finished polishing? Was UNO visible and took awhile to wipe off? In that case you used too much or didn't polish long enough. As Dan said, when you correct, there is not set passes you follow. Every car is different. You polish until imperfections are gone. How do you think we pros sometimes spend 20-50 hours or more? Even with 105:D



FYI, D300 is excellent at hiding. Many don't want to hear it, but it covers a lot until you wash the car in a week or so. See how the paint looks then.



So as you gain more experience, you will have a better understanding of what it takes to correct.





JOHN BAKER said:
yes i have the new version-was working on a tan/beige toyota corrolla-probably around a 95-2000 model,not soft paint at all-if anything it was rockhard.just could not get the swirls out with the equiptment and pads i had.it was my first time useing hd.just curius how many section passes would be a good reference point since you can run it a long time assuming its smat.what should i be lookin for?

thanks
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JOHN BAKER said:
yes i have the new version-was working on a tan/beige toyota corrolla-probably around a 95-2000 model,not soft paint at all-if anything it was rockhard.just could not get the swirls out with the equiptment and pads i had.it was my first time useing hd.just curius how many section passes would be a good reference point since you can run it a long time assuming its smat.what should i be lookin for?

thanks
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I've had to literally do 4-5 extensive passes on some hard paints when chasing after defects. Even with very aggressive compunds. Usually after 1 or 2 passes pretty much all of the lighter wash enduced marring is leveled though.



I have a feeling that the QD interferred with the cutting power. It could of either softened/coated the pad too much or encapsulated the abrasives thus affecting it's ability to cut effectively. The only QD I'd use with UNO is HD Touch or water. I personally don't use one as a primer, but don't think it's a bad idea either.



Keep you buffing areas small such as no larger then 2 X 2.

Start with 4-6 drops applied to the outer parameter of the pad.

Spread the product for 1 pass on speed 3.

Turn up the speed on your PC XP to 6 and apply semi-firm pressure.

Work the machine very slow as in 2-3 inches per second.

Go up & down >> Side to side 3-4 times each. (each one is a pass)

Turn speed to 4, apply firmer pressure for 1 slow pass

Wipe and check results.



Repeat as necessary, but clean your pad before starting the next pass/session/section
 
RZJZA80 said:
Precisely! IPA can be finicky for me on certain paints, and add to that the chance of inducing marring while doing an IPA wipedown, and I go to KAIO to clean everything up and see what's going on. ALthough I'll disagree on one thing, it gives more than just some protection, at least for me.
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Try using window cleaner as a substitute for ipa.
 
Thomas Dekany said:
Every car is different. You polish until imperfections are gone. How do you think we pros sometimes spend 20-50 hours or more? Even with 105:D
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Yep, a lot of people don't understand how long some clears take to correct. My last S4 took 16 hours with a rotary at full blast. I did half the car with 105 and half with UNO. If you expect results in a few hours, you'll only get them with something that fills. Real correction takes lots of time.
 
Barry Theal said:
Try using window cleaner as a substitute for ipa.
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Just regular window cleaner like Invisible Glass? I'm apprehensive, as with IPA, that it will marr the finish after the polishing. ANy other solution short of using Klasse to clean without marring?
 
I'm surprised you are getting so little correction with UNO yet are so worried about marring. I have had no issues with decent towels and IPA, even on softer (though not uber soft) paints.
 
I didn't say I was referring to when I use UNO, but any product that I'm ready to clean off the paint. Some paints I have no issues, others I do. I asked if there was a safer alternative to IPA/window cleaner that would help prevent in marring while cleaning.
 
RZJZA80 said:
Just regular window cleaner like Invisible Glass? I'm apprehensive, as with IPA, that it will marr the finish after the polishing. ANy other solution short of using Klasse to clean without marring?
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Yea any window cleaner will do. We have been using 3D's 50 to 1 Cleaner here. For 30 some dollars you get 50 gallons. It will last a life time. Any window cleaner will do the trick. Just look for something in bulk this is cheap
 
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