Need help with new clearcoat

M

mperry99

New member
I am an amateur, and I've clearly bitten off more than I can chew, but I need some help.



I repainted a panel myself using top quality PPG basecoat and catalyzed PPG clearcoat.



Everything went just fine (primer, sealer, basecoat) until I applied the clear.



I put on 5 coats of clear, but have a couple of runs, and in a couple of other places I have some mild orange peel.



I think I know how to correct those problems by wetsanding with 1000 grit followed by 2000 grit and a block, but I'm less confident about how to get the extremely high gloss back after doing so.



Can someone give me some advice on what equipment, pads, compounds and technique to use?



I have, incidentally, a 10 year old Orbital polisher that I haven't used in years. Should I consider using it, or should I get something different?



Thanks in advance for your help.
 
You're at a stage that requires very good technique and some specialized knowledge. It's generally not recommended for a first-timer unless you're willing to risk destroying the finish and starting over.



If you're up for the gamble you'll want to read up on wetsanding and rotary polishing, here, on other websites and in books. It's not something that can easily be described in adequate detail in a few short text boxes in a forum like this.





PC.
 
Thans a lot, PC.



Would a body shop or detailing shop do it, or since they didn't paint it would they be reluctant to?
 
If they're good, they'll have the skills to do it. I doubt a body shop will would be willing to do it on a panel they didn't shoot. Maybe, but I'm sure they won't guarantee that they won't buff through the finish.



A good detailer who has wetsanding experience is a better bet. He probably won't be willing to guarantee not buffing through either but his business is making paint shine. It seems to be getting harder to find painters who do that. More and more it seems painters only know how to lay down the film but don't know how to really bring out gloss.





PC.
 
If you painted it ur self, what have you got to loose? its not that hard..but i will tell you this, ppg clear can be VERY hard to buff out if its been a while since youve cleared it, Make sure you have all the proper pads, polishes, and sanding paper...i would start with 1000, then go 1200-1500-2000-2500 and start your buffing. On my previous car I had wetsanded some clear and it took me forever to due to the fact that I didnt have the proper pads or polishes. But other than that..go for it..
 
Thanks Roadmaster.



I see references to yellow, orange and white pads, and then I see blue Sonus pads for sale on autopia-carcare, etc. so I still have a lot to learn.



Could you tell me what brands and colors of pads I need, and tell me where to get them? I'd like to have a local option to purchase them too. Would that be a body shop supply company?



Thanks.
 
After you have wetsanded your orange peel, 1000-1200-1500-2000-2500...also I would reccomden you get a sanding backing pad like this one

http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-sanding-backing-pad/Sanding-Backing-Pad



U should be able to get this at ur local auto supply store, the reason why you need this is to get even coverage while sanding, once you have sanded it down to 2500 grit. Try a polish that is designed to take out 2000grit sand marks, you can try 3m perfect it 3000, Optimum Polish..try it first with a Polishing pad something like this

http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-pad/Soft-Buff-Foam-Polishing-Pads

if its not buffing out properly...then try a cutting pad with the same compound something lke this

http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-pad/SOFTBUFF-Cutting-Pad



If you do have to use the cutting pad, make sure you go over the finish with a finer polish and a polishing pad..an example of a finer polish would be this

http://topoftheline.com/menfinpolll.html



are you going to be using a rotary or a PC?

Hope this helps
 
For runs, I saw a tool on Eastwood's site that can remove runs. I believe this tool may help cut back on the amount of wetsanding you will need to do. Instead of removing the run via wetsanding only, you can use this tool to knock off the high spot and then follow up with wetsanding.



It looks like a little square box that has a straight edge razor held at just the right angle. I believe you slide it over the run and it takes it down to just above the height of the surrounding paint.



Do a google for Eastwood Tool Company or Eastwoodco fopr the website addy.
 
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