Need advice on what products to use....After color sanding.

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OscarNav

New member
Well I finally got my paint job color sanded...I used 2500 to knock down the orange peel..I then finished it with 3000 grit. With so many products on the market I was wondering if you guys can recommend me some store bought Meguiars or 3m products to use. I actually just got a GG Polisher kit....and a good supply of pakshak MF plush towels. I only have GG MACHINE polish number 3 and Best of show wax for products as of right now. I also have 3m perfect it 3000 compound and a bottle of megs diamond cut compound. Please advise as what to use to get this paint job of mine looking decent....decent because this is my first time trying a machine polisher..for that fact..first time trying to work on paint. Paint is about 1 week old Dark blue with a white stripe running down the middle. Im open for suggestions and advice...
 
i believe that a DA is not safe to use on paint that fresh. likewise you'll want 'body shop safe' compounds for the fresh paint. someone else should have more info.
 
You wetsanded a car but have never used a buffer? :eek:



You are better off looking into the new Meguiars microfiber system than using what you currently have available.
 
Scottwax said:
You are better off looking into the new Meguiars microfiber system than using what you currently have available.
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With something like that Meguiar's system your GG polisher should do fine on the 3K scratches. You might be able to get away with using the Diamond Cut, but I'd sure rather use the MF approach (with its new compound) or at least M105 (probably on an orange foam pad, and I do *NOT* mean a Griot's orange pad, which is different).



The 3M RC won't work well for this and the GG MP#3 is strictly a finishing polish.





You'll then need some sort of follow up product/pad combo. And no, the GG MP#3 won't have enough cut, or at least I'd be *very* surprised if it does.



For "store bought", you might oughta check the yellow pages for your local autobody/paint supply store.
 
Scottwax said:
You wetsanded a car but have never used a buffer? :eek:



You are better off looking into the new Meguiars microfiber system than using what you currently have available.
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Yes...I figured I will learn as I go. I have many test panels I can use before actually letting loose on the fresh paint job. I run a paint shop...strickly sandblast and shoot heavy construction equipment I.e.....loaders...graders...backhoes ect...We use BASF limco 5 direct to metal.... I easily shoot around 10-15 gallons of paint per week. I just shot this pickup with a single stage urethane. Limco 3. One mist coat...and 3 medium wet coats. Im sure the mills are there. Just a quick background on the job at hand
 
Accumulator said:
With something like that Meguiar's system your GG polisher should do fine on the 3K scratches. You might be able to get away with using the Diamond Cut, but I'd sure rather use the MF approach (with its new compound) or at least M105 (probably on an orange foam pad, and I do *NOT* mean a Griot's orange pad, which is different).



The 3M RC won't work well for this and the GG MP#3 is strictly a finishing polish.





You'll then need some sort of follow up product/pad combo. And no, the GG MP#3 won't have enough cut, or at least I'd be *very* surprised if it does.



For "store bought", you might oughta check the yellow pages for your local autobody/paint supply store.
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I have been looking at the megs mf system but wanted a second opinion before purchasing. I live in a very small town with limited places to buy products....so what I meant by store bought was...products I can easily get. Megs and 3 m are the only products my local parts store carries. I have no problem ordering online sounds like at this point ill have too. On the orange pad.....where you refering to a lake country...? I need to place an order of this variety as well. I also will be getting a smaller backing plate and pads. 3" or so. I figured id get a 5" megs mf system and start building from there. M105 should be found locally if need be.
 
tssdetailing said:
i believe that a DA is not safe to use on paint that fresh. likewise you'll want 'body shop safe' compounds for the fresh paint. someone else should have more info.
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Agreed -- I wouldn't be looking at the MF system in this application.
 
OscarNav said:
... On the orange pad.....where you refering to a lake country...? I need to place an order of this variety as well. I also will be getting a smaller backing plate and pads. 3" or so. I figured id get a 5" megs mf system and start building from there. M105 should be found locally if need be.
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Yeah..LC orange would be the kind I'm talking about. I use a variety of orange light-cutting pads and they work pretty much the same for me, I just wanted to differentiate between "regular orange pads" and the much more gentle ones from Griot's.
 
tssdetailing said:
..you'll want 'body shop safe' compounds for the fresh paint..
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Isn't "body shop safe" more about not contaminating the shop environment than about what's OK/not for fresh paint?
 
Accumulator said:
Is it about the chance of "twist" or somesuch?
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That would be my primary concern, yes. Obviously using a DA on fresh paint for finish sanding is fine, but a fine-grit finishing disc isn't going to grab the paint and torque on it anywhere near to the extent that something like a MF or other polishing pad could. I'd just hate to see someone end up with paint wrinkle if it can be avoided.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Agreed -- I wouldn't be looking at the MF system in this application.
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Okay...so it sounds like you both agreed the MF system is not a good thing for this job. Would the LC orange pad and M105 do a good job with this fresh paint....? Please recommmend a speed setting. I am also open to other products that I can obtain online... please advise on a pad/product for the final polishing.....After the orange lc pad and product you recommend. Sounds like a sealer would work great for my application ....being im not suppose to wax for at least 30 days. I plan on placing a order asap....of course once I get opinions and advice from you detailing season vets.
 
I've done a color sand job myself, but it was on old lacquer paint, so I don't know that it is a good comparison. In my particular situation, there is no question that a rotary with a wool pad was they way to go. I actually used various compounds, including M95 and M105. I liked the longer working time of M95, but it was a trade off, because the M105 did cut better.



If you do a search I think you can find the thread that I posted about it.
 
OscarNav said:
Okay...so it sounds like you both agreed the MF system is not a good thing for this job. Would the LC orange pad and M105 do a good job with this fresh paint....? Please recommmend a speed setting. I am also open to other products that I can obtain online... please advise on a pad/product for the final polishing.....After the orange lc pad and product you recommend. Sounds like a sealer would work great for my application ....being im not suppose to wax for at least 30 days. I plan on placing a order asap....of course once I get opinions and advice from you detailing season vets.
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Well first off most sealants/waxes would be a bad idea on that fresh paint; you CAN use Optimum Opti-Seal or Optimum Car Wax as they're both fresh paint safe but I would be hesitant even with those.



LC Orange with M105 might be a good combination to use, the only way to know for sure would be to do a test spot. If all you have to work with is a DA polisher though, you still should proceed with caution to ensure you don't have any wrinkling or delamination issues. It's possible you'll be fine anyway but be mindful of the risk.
 
I have colorsanded two cars about 3 days after if was painted. If you are using urethane clear coat paint you want don't want to wait to long because the paint cures and it gets very hard fast. I have done a couple cars years after painting and it takes forever to buff out the sandpaper scratches
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Well first off most sealants/waxes would be a bad idea on that fresh paint; you CAN use Optimum Opti-Seal or Optimum Car Wax as they're both fresh paint safe but I would be hesitant even with those.



LC Orange with M105 might be a good combination to use, the only way to know for sure would be to do a test spot. If all you have to work with is a DA polisher though, you still should proceed with caution to ensure you don't have any wrinkling or delamination issues. It's possible you'll be fine anyway but be mindful of the risk.
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Ok....will do.
 
TedFred said:
I have colorsanded two cars about 3 days after if was painted. If you are using urethane clear coat paint you want don't want to wait to long because the paint cures and it gets very hard fast. I have done a couple cars years after painting and it takes forever to buff out the sandpaper scratches
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Yes....it is urethane clear coat. Ill take it easy and do a test on a non viewed surface. On the front side of the bed...right behind the cab. Truck is completely disassembled.
 
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