Using Chemical Guys V32 through V38 with different pads on a Meguiars DA. Car is a black metallic 2012 VW GTI. I have washed and clayed. I have spent all day on the hood trying to polish out fine scratches/swirl marks and they are still there. I`ve watched countless videos and followed the instructions step-by-step in the video yet imperfections are still there. I don`t know what to do. Tried going the the Chemical Guys forum but can`t register because of some BS captcha. I`m tired and frustrated. Is there anything anyone can suggest?
need advice on polishing
- Thread starter Carrera4S
- Start date
Ronkh
Wax Waster
More aggressive pad/compound.
Where are you?
btw: welcome
Where are you?
btw: welcome
Well, I am not familiar with CG products but I hear they work.
My best guess is you are not applying enough pressure to the surface to allow the product and pad to bite, if your not getting correction. Get your bathroom scale and press on it with your buffer and pad until you see 15 lbs., that`s how hard you need to press one polisher on your paint. Next move the polisher across the paint super slowly. Work in a 1 foot by 1 foot area and make it take a full 30 seconds to get across that 1 foot pass. Go left and right overlapping 20% and go both north and south and east and west. If you are not getting results, you need to get more cut, once you are getting correction, you need to finish down, same method, less pressure and softer pads, and less abrasive polish.
I don`t know chemical guys products but on black, its totally possible that you need a 3 step polish to get super results. A cut product like M100 (M101), then a medium polish like M205, and a finishing polish like Menzerna 3800. That`s my go to combo for blacks in bad shape. Ill also start with coarse or medium wool pads if I need to cut out a lot of defects.
The above advice is what I got when I posted something similar and it helped. I also attended a detail event where I leaned my PC was a poor correction tool. My first step up was a flex, that worked worlds better. and now I am rupes guy most of the time and a flex guy for glass, lenses and heavy cutting.
Good Luck !
My best guess is you are not applying enough pressure to the surface to allow the product and pad to bite, if your not getting correction. Get your bathroom scale and press on it with your buffer and pad until you see 15 lbs., that`s how hard you need to press one polisher on your paint. Next move the polisher across the paint super slowly. Work in a 1 foot by 1 foot area and make it take a full 30 seconds to get across that 1 foot pass. Go left and right overlapping 20% and go both north and south and east and west. If you are not getting results, you need to get more cut, once you are getting correction, you need to finish down, same method, less pressure and softer pads, and less abrasive polish.
I don`t know chemical guys products but on black, its totally possible that you need a 3 step polish to get super results. A cut product like M100 (M101), then a medium polish like M205, and a finishing polish like Menzerna 3800. That`s my go to combo for blacks in bad shape. Ill also start with coarse or medium wool pads if I need to cut out a lot of defects.
The above advice is what I got when I posted something similar and it helped. I also attended a detail event where I leaned my PC was a poor correction tool. My first step up was a flex, that worked worlds better. and now I am rupes guy most of the time and a flex guy for glass, lenses and heavy cutting.
Good Luck !
Ronkh
Wax Waster
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Glad you are here, Carrera4S --
I have Detailed a few of those, awesome, beautiful, cars !
Tell us about the - Pad Rotation - you are getting when you worked on your car..
What size pads are you currently using ? 6" pads are too much to rotate effectively on a Porter Cable; a 5.5" pad with the appropriate 5" backing plate will be easier for the Porter Cable to rotate..
The pad needs to be rotating to really correct the hard paintwork..
And as JSFM35X has correctly said above, you need to put downward pressure on the pad as well.
So, if you are using Foam Pads, you need to run that machine at speed-6, put downward pressure on it, and keep the pad rotating all at the same time..
The more the pad rotates, the faster and better the correction will be..
I know nothing of your C/Guys correction products; prefer to use known, proven, professional Detailer products, from Meguiars, Menzerna, Optimum, who all make great compounds and polishes that work very well..
Dan F
I have Detailed a few of those, awesome, beautiful, cars !
Tell us about the - Pad Rotation - you are getting when you worked on your car..
What size pads are you currently using ? 6" pads are too much to rotate effectively on a Porter Cable; a 5.5" pad with the appropriate 5" backing plate will be easier for the Porter Cable to rotate..
The pad needs to be rotating to really correct the hard paintwork..
And as JSFM35X has correctly said above, you need to put downward pressure on the pad as well.
So, if you are using Foam Pads, you need to run that machine at speed-6, put downward pressure on it, and keep the pad rotating all at the same time..
The more the pad rotates, the faster and better the correction will be..
I know nothing of your C/Guys correction products; prefer to use known, proven, professional Detailer products, from Meguiars, Menzerna, Optimum, who all make great compounds and polishes that work very well..
Dan F
Mike lambert
New member
With a small throw da, I would start with a microfiber pad. Your da will work just fine. I don’t think you need to run it at 6, you’ll just overheat the pad and it won’t last. If you don’t have compressed air to blow the pad out, you’ll need at least 4 pads and a pad brush. I don’t see where anyone mentioned residue control? You need to clean the pad after every section you do no matter what pad you are using. As everyone else knows I use strictly griots products, no fillers and what you see is what you get! Take your time and check out some Griot’s video on using a da. They may help. Good technique is what works on a da.
Mike lambert
New member
Obese feel free to call if you like?
theshineshopautodetailing.com
theshineshopautodetailing.com
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
Help me out here Mike. ??????
I agree
These guys have about 3 brazillion ( thats a quote from "W") products-- borderline unbelievable.
Mike lambert
New member
Sorry, didn’t proofread! Please feel free to call!
Accumulator
Well-known member
Carrera4S- Welcome to Autopia!
Don`t worry, it`s not you; I could never get much done with a polisher like that either unless I:
-Used aggressive 4" or even 3" pads
-Used a very aggressive product (M101 for me, others like Griot`s Fast Correcting Creme)
-Still spent as long as you did...yes, hours and hours and hours
So while it`s easy for me to spend your money for you, I`d upgrade the whole system. Maybe that approach works for others, but it doesn`t work for me and there are plenty of different approaches that *do* work fine for me.
BUT...fair warning...I`ve been doing this stuff for over 40 years and it`s *still* harder/longer work than what some might have you believe. It takes as long as it takes; you`re just incrementally abrading away paint like sanding scratches out of a piece of wood. Only so many variables you can tweak.
EDIT: Oh, and note the volume of negative comments regarding your choice of product and the absence of sincere arguments to the contrary. That`s often a clue. And while I`m at it...
Don`t believe everything you read/hear/see on the internet when it comes to Detailing, especially about how "quick and easy it is if you just use this and do it like that..." I bet you wouldn`t be so credulous about other subjects
Don`t worry, it`s not you; I could never get much done with a polisher like that either unless I:
-Used aggressive 4" or even 3" pads
-Used a very aggressive product (M101 for me, others like Griot`s Fast Correcting Creme)
-Still spent as long as you did...yes, hours and hours and hours
So while it`s easy for me to spend your money for you, I`d upgrade the whole system. Maybe that approach works for others, but it doesn`t work for me and there are plenty of different approaches that *do* work fine for me.
BUT...fair warning...I`ve been doing this stuff for over 40 years and it`s *still* harder/longer work than what some might have you believe. It takes as long as it takes; you`re just incrementally abrading away paint like sanding scratches out of a piece of wood. Only so many variables you can tweak.
EDIT: Oh, and note the volume of negative comments regarding your choice of product and the absence of sincere arguments to the contrary. That`s often a clue. And while I`m at it...
Don`t believe everything you read/hear/see on the internet when it comes to Detailing, especially about how "quick and easy it is if you just use this and do it like that..." I bet you wouldn`t be so credulous about other subjects
Mike lambert
New member
Completely disagree, that machine even with its problems will correct your paint. Just need the right pads, products and pads. Technique and patience will work. Please call and I’ll walk you through it.
Accumulator
Well-known member
But not in a timely manner compared to other polishers. I mean, sure...it`ll correct the paint; you can remove fingernail scratches behind door handles that are half-a-mil deep by hand, I`ve done it countless times. But some machines take too long for some of us and now there are lots of options.
EDIT: I once did a side-by-side between my first PC and a Cyclo. Dramatic difference, no comparison at all. And it`s not like the Cyclo is all that aggressive.
EDIT#2: I once had a workman polish deep scratches out of a *stainless steel vanity top* with a PC. Took him *forever* and he was ready to murder me by the time he was done, but hey...he messed it up, he fixes it, and that`s the tool his boss told him to use. If you can correct ss you can sure correct paint!