Need advice for a basic GG6 setup: 2014 MB E350

Yes Accumulator, I did find the information from Autogeek, and I did not intend to make it sound like there is 2 layers of different clear, but meant to say the hardness is on the surface of 0.2mil.

No need to post a wall of text, I have about 8 grit guards and only 2 buckets, and I have 2 wash boards, just in case one gets lost.. I have came across random threads there people just say the grit guard is a waste of money, which I disagree with, but won`t argue with someone that chooses not to use them.

I only say that its optional because there are people out there that feels like its not needed. I distinctly recall reading someone saying that if you aren`t stirring your water, it will be fine. But hey, who knows. I like to stir my water.

Again, no need to post a wall of text just because I said there are debates about it. To say the least, here is one thread about someone/company saying you dont need even buckets... http://www.autopia.org/forums/everything-else/183950-0-bucket-wash.html?highlight=grit+guards this is the most recent one I saw.

Edit: I also read about that guy that rinses his mitts outside of the bucket.. so thats another one that we both are aware of.

I generally don`t like to tell people that they NEED something, but prefer to say you might want to get it for reason a.b.c etc.

Edit Edit: here is another one Does anyone here (besides me) not use grit guards?

is it this guy you`re talking about?? Grit guard ... who needs em

how about a discussion on reddit? https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/4tqsu6/is_the_two_bucket_method_really_necessary/

So yeah I am not just saying there are debates about this topic without any basis.
 
Heh heh..."wall of text"...that`d be me I suppose :o

But seriously, I never saw the Autogeek article, think I learned about "the hard part is the top portion" from Ron K, after I`d discovered it the hard way on that Audi.

And just FWIW, I don`t get the criticisms of the Grit Guards. If somebody believes they offer a benefit then why argue it? Even if it`s just a placebo effect (which I doubt) I can`t see any reason to knock somebody using them.
 
Yeah, so I have a very nifty way to keep 2 grit guards in place, no tools required, you can order some weather stripping material from mcmaster and just slip it in place. I like my gritguards so much I dont want to put holes in them. LOL
 
I`ll probably get some Grit Guards/Washboards one of these days...we`ll see how they fit (some of my buckets aren`t the usual straight-wall ones) and what I have to do to keep `em in place. Wonder if *I* will hesitate to drill `em too.
 
First, thank you to all who took the time to respond. I`m blown away by all the detailed (no pun intended) help and knowledge. Second, I`ve been swamped with finals and apologize for the delay.

imported_Cardaddy,

So much great info in your posts. Very much appreciated!


Accumulator,
-Get the Boss15 instead of the GG6 (which I have/use/like for what it is). Using the GG6 will frustrate him IMO

Appreciate the focused suggestions. It definitely shows you`ve been down this road personally. On the G15 suggestion, do you think this will make a big difference for him? I checked the price of the G15 and it`s ~double. Might be doable but the price range of the GG6 is a lot easier to swallow.



After reading up some more on the CeramiClear I`m nervous to try an aggressive product. Would I be safe in just using HD polish to try to get out the majority of the swirls? I have a bottle of UC but I have zero experience with this type of clear coat and you folks have made me a touch gun-shy:).
 
On the G15 suggestion, do you think this will make a big difference for him? I checked the price of the G15 and it`s ~double. Might be doable but the price range of the GG6 is a lot easier to swallow.

Yeah, while it`s easy for me to spend your money I really *DO* think that it`s worth the higher price. SO many newbies find correction to be frustrating and/or RO/DA polishers to be unpleasant to use! Based on how my father was about this stuff, I`ll stick to my Boss15 recommendation.


After reading up some more on the CeramiClear I`m nervous to try an aggressive product. Would I be safe in just using HD polish to try to get out the majority of the swirls? I have a bottle of UC but I have zero experience with this type of clear coat and you folks have made me a touch gun-shy:).
Glad to hear you`re gonna approach correction cautiously. Yeah, better to live with some flaws than [mess] up the paintjob.

The HD Polish is just gonna be *SO* mild though...I think you`ll need to (rarely, carefully, conservatively) use something more potent.

That`s why I`m thinking "PB Black Hole". Let that stuff fill some of the milder flaws, oughta be sufficient for a non-Autopian and your dad will probably just think of it as a two-step wax process. Ronkh says that the PB BH and FK1000P are compatible, so that`s what I`d be considering.
 
You may want to check this thread out.

How to use Griot`s Garage to detail your car - A detail job Richard Griot would be proud of!

I would also consider the boss pads on the 5" backing plate and possibly the Griot`s creams. Folks have been liking them.

Ultimate Compound will also work as it is a really good compound.

I have been using GG for a number of years on my cars. I now have two MB`s (2010 C & 2012 GLK both black) utilize their wash (~ every 2 weeks +/-), clay, Ultimate Compound (~ once a year) followed with the Poly Wax (~every 3-4 Months). Been super simple and a very nice finish that I`m proud of. I use the GG6 with the 5" backing plate but have not tried their new Boss or creams, something I would like to try sometime in the future. There might be other stuff that is better out there, however Griots is less than an hour down the road from me, and it is easy and I like the results.
 
Yeah, while it`s easy for me to spend your money I really *DO* think that it`s worth the higher price. SO many newbies find correction to be frustrating and/or RO/DA polishers to be unpleasant to use! Based on how my father was about this stuff, I`ll stick to my Boss15 recommendation.

After reading up some more on the G15 I think you are spot on. The reduced vibration and increased comfort are worth the extra $100 in the long run.


The HD Polish is just gonna be *SO* mild though...I think you`ll need to (rarely, carefully, conservatively) use something more potent.

That`s why I`m thinking "PB Black Hole". Let that stuff fill some of the milder flaws, oughta be sufficient for a non-Autopian and your dad will probably just think of it as a two-step wax process. Ronkh says that the PB BH and FK1000P are compatible, so that`s what I`d be considering.

So would the PB Black Hole be the more potent product you mentioned above? Or would that be something like meg`s UC? How often would the PB Black Hole be used...every time?

I also think your wax recommendation is perfect especially being in the hot FL sun.

As of right now I am leaning towards:
Boss G15 (comes w/ backing plate, correct?)
Buff and Shine 5.5" pads (3 Orange, 4 Green, 2 Blue, 3 Black...good enough to start?)
HD Polish
PB Black Hole
FK1000P

Already picked up a bunch of quality MF towels. Am I missing anything obvious?




screamng said:
I have been using GG for a number of years on my cars. I now have two MB`s (2010 C & 2012 GLK both black) utilize their wash (~ every 2 weeks +/-), clay, Ultimate Compound (~ once a year) followed with the Poly Wax (~every 3-4 Months). Been super simple and a very nice finish that I`m proud of. I use the GG6 with the 5" backing plate but have not tried their new Boss or creams, something I would like to try sometime in the future. There might be other stuff that is better out there, however Griots is less than an hour down the road from me, and it is easy and I like the results.


Thanks for sharing your experiences with the MB`s. I`m hoping to get dad to that kind of regimen.
 
bltoe12345.... One thing I forgot to mention earlier (was thinking it, just forgot) is when talking about mils that`s a huge measurement versus microns when you`re referring to paint. PTG`s (Paint Thickness Gauges) generally will measure film thickness in microns, and ".2 mils" comes out to just over 5 microns. That`s thin, but it`s not more than a polish would remove if one isn`t looking to be aggressive. It *IS* however easy to remove 5 microns if one is trying to do a 100% correction *AND ESPECIALLY* on areas like raised body lines, style lines, rough looking areas with aggressive pad/compound combinations etc.

FWIW, I own vehicles with paint measurements running from the upper 60 micron range to the 160 micron range. The two newest, a 16 Silverado LTZ 4x4 is lucky to have 100 microns on it. Where the 2 week old Cruze Hatchback in metallic blue has on average 125 microns, and in places almost 50 mics more paint on it than the Silverado! Of course these two are new, and waterborne paint systems. My son`s 4Runner is a 98, in silver/gray metallic, has been buffed a number of times and still has 127-ish in even the thinnest spots. Just don`t get me started though on the Infiniti that`s running in the 60`s and the darned Silverado (that hasn`t been buffed) and is in the 80`s~90`s for the most part.

Said all that to say this.....
It`s easily possible to get paint looking great and just pull a couple microns off. But when the safety factor is ONLY 5 of them... I`d be looking at finding a PTG, (or someone that has one) and doing a sympathetic correction/polish with not just good, but GREAT lighting, and a light hand along the way. Once done, coat that puppy, coat it twice if possible. It`ll be much easier in the long run to maintain, (and you can top a coating with whatever floats your boat for the most part).

(Hope I don`t get flogged for that statement... purists and all....) ;) LOL

But seriously, I`ve seen lots of coatings topped with anything from paste wax, to liquid, to WOWO and WOWA sealants, and even spray and rinse like Hydro2. This hobby isn`t supposed to BE the stress, it`s supposed to RELIEVE the stress. :)
 
After reading up some more on the G15 I think you are spot on. The reduced vibration and increased comfort are worth the extra $100 in the long run. ..

Yeah, I think so.


So would the PB Black Hole be the more potent product you mentioned above? Or would that be something like meg`s UC? How often would the PB Black Hole be used...every time?

The PB Black Hole is a nonabrasive glaze that should fill in some of the minor marring that will inevitably occur so your dad doesn`t see every little flaw and think he needs to polish a lot.

NOTE THAT I`VE NEVER USED BLACK HOLE.

Better see what people who *have* used it say about "how often"/etc. but I`d expect it`ll be necessary every second rewaxing of so (assuming it gets rewaxed before it *really* needs it; stay one step ahead). The FK1000P will last a *long* time so I`d guess this won`t get done all that often.

I also think your wax recommendation is perfect especially being in the hot FL sun.

Right. And since it`s a conventional LSP it should be quite user-friendly and not "exotic seeming" to your dad, nothing tricky in the application as there can be with coatings/etc.
 
Here`s an article by Mike Phillips regarding the number of pads he recommends for each step in the polishing process-- How many pads do I need to buff out my car?

You might want to take a look at the B&S Uro Tech pads--they are designed for the long throw polishers and I was surprised that they made my G15 operate even smoother than it already is--- Buff & Shine Uro-Tec Foam Pad System

Much appreciated! It looks like the Blue Uro-Tec pads are fairly aggressive from what I`ve come across so far. Doesn`t seem like I`ll need to go that aggressive but figure I`ll pick one up in case or to try out on my personal vehicle. Here is my current core list minus the basics i.e. MF towels etc.:

BOSS G15
6" BnS Uro-Tec pads (1 blue, 6 maroon, 4 yellow, 1 white)
Meg`s UC (if even needed)
HD Polish
PB Black Hole
FK1000P

Any thoughts? I`d like to place an order before midnight tonight to take advantage of the 20% coupon.
 
bltoe12345- With the Boss15 I`d go with the smaller ~5" pads instead of the 6" ones. Since you`re starting the system from scratch, I`d just stick with that size too, unless you find a need to go even smaller (i.e., 4").
 
Much appreciated! It looks like the Blue Uro-Tec pads are fairly aggressive from what I`ve come across so far. Doesn`t seem like I`ll need to go that aggressive but figure I`ll pick one up in case or to try out on my personal vehicle. Here is my current core list minus the basics i.e. MF towels etc.:

BOSS G15
6" BnS Uro-Tec pads (1 blue, 6 maroon, 4 yellow, 1 white)
Meg`s UC (if even needed)
HD Polish
PB Black Hole
FK1000P

Any thoughts? I`d like to place an order before midnight tonight to take advantage of the 20% coupon.

I would also consider the boss pads as they were designed for the G15.
 
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