Need a Reputable Paint Guy (Shop) in Austin, TX

T

texas328ci

New member
I posted this in Autopia University, but got minimal response. I figure you professionals probably network a bit, so this is likely a better place. I look forward to any help!



This is kind of a spinoff from my original thread on my worst paint defects.



Click here to see the defects I'm talking about



My question now becomes...do any autopians from Central TX know a very good paint guy (body shop) in Austin TX or close? I figure I'll get my paint repaired professionally before I try to kill myself polishing with no chance of success.



The pictures I posted were the worst defects, but there are other minor chips and things scattered throughout the finish. My next question is...If I have to have spots repaired on all the panels, how much should I plan on spending? Would it be easier to just have the entire vehicle repainted??



Thanks for any insight!
 
no use in a repaint, i believe thats SS paint so i wouldnt do it. Try seeing if anthony can wetsand that spot and minimize the effects of defect A he may be able to help. Defect b theres a guy named Ron thats in SA that does PDR i think anthony has his number. Defect C buy a pc and go to work on those swirls. I would hate for you to spend the $$ painting your car all over. In time its just going to look the same cause almost everyone has dents and some scratches here and there so id just live w/them.... Remember the shinier the car the less noticiable the defects are IMHO.... Good luck
 
I posted this in the original thread but as of yet.....no response:nixweiss



So here goes a quick run down again...



Defect "A" can be wetsanded and polished out, although applying some more touch up paint might be the best route first.



Defect "B" is most likely the result of an egg being thrown at the car. The eggshell impact leaves that calling card in the top coat as the shell makes impact. I could be wrong but from the looks of what I see in the pic, it appears to be a drive-by egging. This can be minimized but only a re-paint will make it as if nothing ever happened.



Defect "C" is no problem, just takes some work.



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
I posted this in the original thread but as of yet.....no response:nixweiss



So here goes a quick run down again...



Defect "A" can be wetsanded and polished out, although applying some more touch up paint might be the best route first.



Defect "B" is most likely the result of an egg being thrown at the car. The eggshell impact leaves that calling card in the top coat as the shell makes impact. I could be wrong but from the looks of what I see in the pic, it appears to be a drive-by egging. This can be minimized but only a re-paint will make it as if nothing ever happened.



Defect "C" is no problem, just takes some work.



Anthony
Click to expand...

well you heard it from the man himself :xyxthumbs
 
Thanks for the responses guys. So basically it sounds like with some work I can minimize the appearance of this stuff. Anthony, do you think I should attempt this myself? I've never wetsanded before, and I would be leary of trying it without practicing.



I've also heard when you wetsand you should have an Electronic Paint Depth guage. I really can't justify buying one of those just to work out a couple of defects.



The temp here in TX has gotten cooler, so I think this is probably an ideal time to work on this stuff.





In my previous thread, Accumulator wrote: "Defects A & B will require spot-repair by a *very good* paint guy. If it were mine, I'd get that done first and let the paint cure before doing anything involving wax/sealants.



But again, I'd get A & B fixed now rather than later and then go for it. Putting the repairs off will only cause problems, as to fix them the paint guy will be stripping off your wax anyhow and the whole bodyshop experience will probably result in some (hopefully minor) cosmetic damage (such as swirls) to the car. Sad but true, at least in most cases. If you get the paitwork done now, you'll still be able to wax in time for winter (if that's a concern for you). You could put it off until spring, but again, the shop will mess up your paint at least a little and you'll be redoing all the polishing."





It sounds like he recommends I have someone more experienced work these out (A & B) rather than attempting myself. Anthony, do you ever make it over to Austin? ;) Per 6']['9, he said you may have the number of a good paint pro down in SA? That wouldn't be too far for me to go, but I'd be concerned with driving back up I-35 with new paint that hasn't cured. Is this an irrational concern?



Thanks again for your insight!
 
texas328ci said:
Thanks for the responses guys. So basically it sounds like with some work I can minimize the appearance of this stuff. Anthony, do you think I should attempt this myself? I've never wetsanded before, and I would be leary of trying it without practicing.



I've also heard when you wetsand you should have an Electronic Paint Depth guage. I really can't justify buying one of those just to work out a couple of defects.



The temp here in TX has gotten cooler, so I think this is probably an ideal time to work on this stuff.





In my previous thread, Accumulator wrote: "Defects A & B will require spot-repair by a *very good* paint guy. If it were mine, I'd get that done first and let the paint cure before doing anything involving wax/sealants.



But again, I'd get A & B fixed now rather than later and then go for it. Putting the repairs off will only cause problems, as to fix them the paint guy will be stripping off your wax anyhow and the whole bodyshop experience will probably result in some (hopefully minor) cosmetic damage (such as swirls) to the car. Sad but true, at least in most cases. If you get the paitwork done now, you'll still be able to wax in time for winter (if that's a concern for you). You could put it off until spring, but again, the shop will mess up your paint at least a little and you'll be redoing all the polishing."





It sounds like he recommends I have someone more experienced work these out (A & B) rather than attempting myself. Anthony, do you ever make it over to Austin? ;) Per 6']['9, he said you may have the number of a good paint pro down in SA? That wouldn't be too far for me to go, but I'd be concerned with driving back up I-35 with new paint that hasn't cured. Is this an irrational concern?



Thanks again for your insight!
Click to expand...



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