Need a little product help. Grained black trim/wax ?

F

Fallz

New member
Good day everyone,



First off I like to use product lines . I don't mix and match stuff to much with that being said . I purchased a new vehicle and it has A LOT of grained trim , bumpers , ect.... on it . It is a 11 Toyota 4Runner off road edition (thats why all the grained trim instead of paint) .



What would be a good line of products which will keep trim looking nice and clean without wax residue showing up ? I like using spray waxes after initial detail is done , but I can't keep masking all this off every time.



Thank you
 
YouTube - Chevrolet Surburban Trim Piece Restoration



Check this out. I've been using this on my trim for 14 years. Never found a reason to change. Doesn't wash away after 1st wash or rain. My 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT has the same kind of trim. 93K miles and sits outside 24/7. Service Techs at the local Dodge dealer have come out and asked me what I have been using, when it is in for reg maint.
 
Try GTechniq C4 Wipe on wipe off walk away and will last up to 2 years.
Fallguy said:
Good day everyone,



First off I like to use product lines . I don't mix and match stuff to much with that being said . I purchased a new vehicle and it has A LOT of grained trim , bumpers , ect.... on it . It is a 11 Toyota 4Runner off road edition (thats why all the grained trim instead of paint) .



What would be a good line of products which will keep trim looking nice and clean without wax residue showing up ? I like using spray waxes after initial detail is done , but I can't keep masking all this off every time.



Thank you
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Meguiars Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax in the Detailer Line...A.K.A. Ultimate Quik Wax...is excellent on trim. None too shabby on paint as well. Much more affordable in gallon size.
 
Thanks Big Dave .



To the others: Thats what Im looking for is spray waxes that wont stain the trim , NOT trim protectant.
 
Fallguy- I use the Klasse twins or Collinite 845. I've used other LSPs on textured black exterior trim, but those are the two that have always been 100% foolproof. Well, Souveran is too, but I only use that on garage-queens.
 
I have a 2009 Honda CR-V, with lots of black trim and cladding. My favorite sealant for this large vehicle is Ultima Paint Guard Plus. One of the reasons I like this sealant is because it can be applied to everything--paint, trim, cladding, metal. UPGP is a wipe-on/walk-away product. I apply two coats initially (12 hours apart) and then re-apply every two months or so. It takes me 10-15 minutes to do the entire vehicle. Very easy!



If you are looking for a dedicated trim protection product, then I recommend Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Plus. I applied it in early October to our CR-V, and it is still protecting the trim/cladding. It may not be as durable as the nano-protectants (like GTechniq), but I am very pleased with its performance.
 
akimel said:
I have a 2009 Honda CR-V, with lots of black trim and cladding. My favorite sealant for this large vehicle is Ultima Paint Guard Plus. One of the reasons I like this sealant is because it can be applied to everything--paint, trim, cladding, metal. UPGP is a wipe-on/walk-away product. I apply two coats initially (12 hours apart) and then re-apply every two months or so. It takes me 10-15 minutes to do the entire vehicle. Very easy!



If you are looking for a dedicated trim protection product, then I recommend Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Plus. I applied it in early October to our CR-V, and it is still protecting the trim/cladding. It may not be as durable as the nano-protectants (like GTechniq), but I am very pleased with its performance.
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I agree UTTG was the best trim dressing, but now Gtechniq C4 can't be beat.
 
Another UTTG fan here, but I *am* thinking about the C4 when I finally run out. BUT...I only use it on rubber, I still like my LSPing for "normal trim". Maybe I oughta rethink that :think:
 
Accumulator said:
Another UTTG fan here, but I *am* thinking about the C4 when I finally run out. BUT...I only use it on rubber, I still like my LSPing for "normal trim". Maybe I oughta rethink that :think:
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I'll probably stop using C4 on trim, as C1 will work too.
 
I have my concerns about OCW .



It has carnuba which usually does stain or get in the grains of the trim and can cause that white residue ....correct or am I wrong ??



Also have big reservations about OCW looks and the major lack or durability . If you go through a car wash the carnuba washes away , but maybe some sealant stays , i don't know . Please educated me . The only product that I ever found from Optima that was decent was their ONR.
 
OCW will not stain trim. Stay away from auto car washes..if you must then use a sealant.
Fallguy said:
I have my concerns about OCW .



It has carnuba which usually does stain or get in the grains of the trim and can cause that white residue ....correct or am I wrong ??



Also have big reservations about OCW looks and the major lack or durability . If you go through a car wash the carnuba washes away , but maybe some sealant stays , i don't know . Please educated me . The only product that I ever found from Optima that was decent was their ONR.
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100_9439.jpg




No Dye; No Oil; Just fully restored and absolutely dry to the touch. This owner will no longer need a new cowl, which he was fully prepared to buy. When I'm done with black plastic (smooth or textured) restoration I have my client take their thumb and try to rub off the finish. If they're not rubbing hard enough, I encourage a little more effort. When they're done trying, I wipe their fingerprints off with my hand, leaving behind the same restored finish. If you look at the after photo, you can also see a little section of the hood that I had not restored yet. Same polish yielded the plastic and paint results.
 
Accumulator said:
markaw- How much correction does the Acrylic Werks polish do (when the plastic has marring)?
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Is the marring scuffs and scratches? The Acrylic-Werks is a non-abrasive formula, so actually repairing scuffs and scratches where material has been removed, you will want another solution. If the plastic panels (smooth or textured) are faded, even if they have faded to the point that they appear white, restoration can be a complete success in most cases.



Side Note: I just ran across a late 80's or early 90's Isuzu Rodeo, which had the 3 back panels (2- rear side panels / 1- center air spoiler) that are completely faded. The center spoiler (almost white) is more faded than the side panels (light gray). I hope to talk with the owner tomorrow so I can do the restoration. I will film the restoration if it is a go.



Included a late 80's BMW 5 Series B-Pillar Restoration video:



<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/LuKPYmqVE0Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
markaw- OK, thanks for the reply (and yeah, I was wondering about when you have to polish out scratches/etc.).



Good example there with the BMW, the "B" pillar material on Bimmers is something I've worked on so I can appreciate how it worked for that. I used Hi-Temp Heavy Cut/"357", but I was removing some marring too...different situation, different approach.
 
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