Necessary to clay bar if I`m going to use megs 105?

bennylava said:
..after the 105, what polish should I use?
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Since I utterly despise the Trade Secret Oils in M205 and find it gives insufficient gloss, I follow M105 (or the even better M101) with HD Polish. Extremely effective and user-friendly, absolutely Accumulato-proof.

1. A good wash. But which soap is good for a dirty car? Already got the good wash towels from here.


2. Chemical decontamination. .[/quote]

If doing a chemical decontamination I`d expect that stuff to do all the washing. Since you`re planning to M105 it anyhow I wouldn`t worry about whether the decon chemicals are as "good" (scare-quotes intentional as there are different aspects to consider) as a regular shampoo. FWIW, for regular shampoos I do better by avoiding the cheapie stuff like meguiar`s Gold Class and buying something genuinely good with regard to lubricity and encapsulation (e.g., 3D Pink Car Soap).

....

4. Megs 105.

5. Polish. But which one? Its just a pontiac, so standard GM clearcoat I guess.
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The M105/HD Polish is very good on typical GM clear, works great on my Tahoe...actually, it works great on everything for me.

6. Wax. I know there is a million waxes, but I`d like to get a good one that lasts (i dunno) 6 months? And is fairly easy to get off. Always nice when you don`t have to work too hard
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.
FK1000P or, for something incredibly user-friendly, Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. Eh, much as I love the FK I guess you oughta go with the 845. It`s just *SO* easy and it lasts a long time.
7. Done. Sell car.
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It`ll look great if you do the above.
 
Thanks Accumulator! Will do. Couple of last follow up questions. So:

1. Orange pad for the megs 105 (or do I have 101? can`t remember lol)

2. Blue pad for the HD polish

3. Black (or very fine/soft) pad for the wax.

Look about right?

Now to address a point that TMQ brought up. Not for this car, as for me its just a practice car. But for future cars, this process is pretty lengthy. Eventually I do plan to hire a detail boy and train him up in the right ways of detailing. Just as eventually, I will need a mechanic to work on the cars. But for the exterior detailing aspect, it seems like doing all of this may become rather costly. Both in time, and money spent on detailing supplies. I`m wondering if I should actually go this far on all the cars I get in. I`ll mainly be dealing in cars/trucks that are 5-10 years old. Its hard to note out cars that are newer than that.

You`ll also notice that most dealerships just won`t go to the length of a full professional detail, unless its some really classy, really expensive high end car. But your average smaller car dealer just washes the car, and maybe addresses the problem areas with the paint, if he can. So I`m thinking that there must be some steps that I should be skipping in this process. And I`d like to get your thoughts on my plan so far. What I`d like to do, is wash with quality wash, (say Adams for example) and use the good wash towels. Dry, and then probably skip the clar barring unless it was just awful and was going to need buffing like the car I have now. Next, just use something like HD speed and be done with it. Obviously the wheels and trim would get their own attention if necessary. But for the paint it would just be wash, dry, and HD Speed.

I`d like to go full detail on every one, but costs and just the simple fact that it probably won`t matter, kind of prohibit that. Most people just want to buy a shiny, good looking car and then they run it through the automated car wash every once in awhile. Few people want to take care of their paint the way we do. So in nearly all cases, it would be a wasted attempt to try and give them something that was just great, but did need them to wax the car again every 6 months. I`ve learned enough in this business to know that its just not going to happen. That coat of wax will last them as long as its going to last, and that is the end of them taking care of the car`s exterior. Other than getting the dirt off of it from time to time.
 
bennylava said:
Thanks Accumulator! Will do. Couple of last follow up questions. So:

1. Orange pad for the megs 105 (or do I have 101? can`t remember lol)

2. Blue pad for the HD polish

3. Black (or very fine/soft) pad for the wax.

Look about right?
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Yeah, looks good! I generally prefer LSPing by hand, and I DO NOT like the LC black pad, but that`s just me and you have the right idea. Note you`ll need a LOT more pads than you`d ever imagine since they quickly load with cut-off clear and used-up polish.

Now to address a point that TMQ brought up. Not for this car, as for me its just a practice car. But for future cars...
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Reselling at the dealership is a whole different ballgame; I used to have a small used-car dealership and getting stuff in the shape to satisfy *ME* would`ve been downright foolish. Other people don`t notice/care about this stuff the way Autopians do.

I`d consider using a cheap/bulk decontamination system like ValuGard`s ABC, then some kind of AIO, and concentrate on just having the vehicles *CLEAN*. Doing the extra bit in the interior/engine compartment/etc. will make them look "well maintained" to the average buyer and will go a lot farther (IMO) than getting the paint all perfect (and thinning the clear enough to do that).
 
Accumulator said:
Note you`ll need a LOT more pads than you`d ever imagine since they quickly load with cut-off clear and used-up polish.
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That is something I know nothing about. So on a mid sized car that is getting the full treatment, how many orange pads do you go through? And how many polish pads? Also I don`t know what LSP means lol
 
Last step product (wax or sealant). The amount of pads you use will be determined by how dirty the paint is. On a mid-sized car my guess would be 3-5 pads for polishing. Don’t polish with a gunked up pad.
 
Fishroes said:
The amount of pads you use will be determined by how dirty the paint is. On a mid-sized car my guess would be 3-5 pads for polishing. Don’t polish with a gunked up pad.
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I`d use far more than that, but I might be a bit extreme about it. MF pads clean off quick/easy with compressed air, but foam is a huge PIA to clean on the fly so I almost always prefer just grabbing a fresh one. And if doing significant correction I can easily notice a big drop in performance (caused by that stuff that builds up on them) after just one panel, often just a portion of a big one. I was utterly amazed how much better everything went once I got a gazillion pads and started swapping them out (very) frequently.

Especially with M105, which I generally use with the Kevin Brown Method (KBM), which starts with a thoroughly primed pad. M105 dries out *FAST* and reactivating it with water/etc. is the kind of thing that, well....if you oughta be doing it you don`t need any advice on the subject from me; if you`re not 100% confident about doing it then just don`t.

Heh heh, it`s easy for me to spend your money, but I`d buy as many cutting pads as you can afford.

The HD Polish is different; you use a *LOT* less product and since it`s much more gentle there`s far less cut-off clear, so you won`t need as many. But don`t get just 2-3 of them either. (And don`t switch to your Finishing Polish too soon.)
 
So now I need to talk about pad prices. After a pad is "gunked up" I`m guessing its trash. Where is a good place to buy decent pads where you`ll get a bulk pack of pads? Say 10 or more pads in a pack. Pads seem to be more expensive than I`d like them to be. You guys must go through a ton of pads.
 
bennylava said:
Thanks Accumulator! Will do. Couple of last follow up questions. So:

1. Orange pad for the megs 105 (or do I have 101? can`t remember lol)

2. Blue pad for the HD polish

3. Black (or very fine/soft) pad for the wax.

Look about right?

Now to address a point that TMQ brought up. Not for this car, as for me its just a practice car. But for future cars, this process is pretty lengthy. Eventually I do plan to hire a detail boy and train him up in the right ways of detailing. Just as eventually, I will need a mechanic to work on the cars. But for the exterior detailing aspect, it seems like doing all of this may become rather costly. Both in time, and money spent on detailing supplies. I`m wondering if I should actually go this far on all the cars I get in. I`ll mainly be dealing in cars/trucks that are 5-10 years old. Its hard to note out cars that are newer than that.

You`ll also notice that most dealerships just won`t go to the length of a full professional detail, unless its some really classy, really expensive high end car. But your average smaller car dealer just washes the car, and maybe addresses the problem areas with the paint, if he can. So I`m thinking that there must be some steps that I should be skipping in this process. And I`d like to get your thoughts on my plan so far. What I`d like to do, is wash with quality wash, (say Adams for example) and use the good wash towels. Dry, and then probably skip the clar barring unless it was just awful and was going to need buffing like the car I have now. Next, just use something like HD speed and be done with it. Obviously the wheels and trim would get their own attention if necessary. But for the paint it would just be wash, dry, and HD Speed.

I`d like to go full detail on every one, but costs and just the simple fact that it probably won`t matter, kind of prohibit that. Most people just want to buy a shiny, good looking car and then they run it through the automated car wash every once in awhile. Few people want to take care of their paint the way we do. So in nearly all cases, it would be a wasted attempt to try and give them something that was just great, but did need them to wax the car again every 6 months. I`ve learned enough in this business to know that its just not going to happen. That coat of wax will last them as long as its going to last, and that is the end of them taking care of the car`s exterior. Other than getting the dirt off of it from time to time.
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Production detailing is what you need to do to manage cost, time and improve profits. AIO is the way to go...Article below by Joe hits it on the head.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...es-maximize-your-profits-time-efficiency.html

And as for pads---you never will have enough! I try to have at least 9 pads or more on hand of each in cutting, polish and finish pads. That way I just switch out and toss them in bucket to soak and keep going.

Tom
 
bennylava said:
So now I need to talk about pad prices. After a pad is "gunked up" I`m guessing its trash...You guys must go through a ton of pads...
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It`s a pleasure to disabuse you of that misconception :D NO, the gunked-up pad isn`t trash at all, oughta clean up just fine if you put in the (sometimes not inconsiderable) effort.

There are Pad Cleaner products that some here swear by, but I just use APC or Dawn or whatever and really hot water. Yeah, it can take a while, even with a pre-soak/etc. and you`ll feel like you`re rinsing `em out *forever*, but hey...that or spend a lot of unnecessary money (which sure is easy...if you`re OK wih the utterly unnecessary expenditure).


Where is a good place to buy decent pads where you`ll get a bulk pack of pads? Say 10 or more pads in a pack. Pads seem to be more expensive than I`d like them to be..
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IIRC a lot of places sell pads in 5 packs. Eh, I`m out of date on Pads as I haven`t needed any new ones for ages. Although cutting pads do eventually wear out, most of my pads last for innumerable jobs.
 
How about soaking them for a good long while, and then putting them through the washing machine? Wash them only with other pads, perhaps on delicates cycle. Just use the soap that you would normally use on the pads, in the washing machine.
 
bennylava said:
How about soaking them for a good long while, and then putting them through the washing machine?
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Eh, never worked well for me, they need a whole lotta squeezing/etc. under running water and washing machine agitators just don`t provide that type of action IME. I don`t even get all that great of results washing LSP applicators/etc. in the washer.

And just FWIW, I`m 100% certain that a HE washer wouldn`t do much of *anything* to `em.

I`ve never found a way to avoid the extensive manual labor required to clean pads, but then I`ve never tried a Pad Washer either. Next time I correct a vehicle I`m gonna try the pressure washer=[powered home-brew version with an old bucket, but I haven`t really pursued that yet so I`m not fixed on how I`ll do it.
 
Have always had great results from Snappy Clean powder for around 15 years now..

Yes, it does require one to have to soak the pad in the mixture first, then knead and squeeze the pad to loosen the debris..
It rinses out very easy compared to other soaps because it is a dedicated pad cleaner.

And wouldn`t you know - the people that make Snappy Clean are the same people that make Lake Country Pads in Wisconsin !!!!
Dan F
 
Huh, surprised that putting pads in the washer works for people, but glad to hear it works for you as it sure sounds easy!


bennylava said:
And lo, he learned a new respect for detailers. Earn their money, they do.
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Indeed, well....the Autopian ones do ;) IMO, most "professional Detailers" deserve those scare-quotes (and don`t deserve much esteem).
 
Yeah it looks like you guys get nickle and dime`d to death on supplies. Oh now you need these other two products, to clean your pads. I guess once you finally work out the perfect combo of products for all your needs, it could get cheaper. Cause you know you only ever have to buy these 12 products, in order to be able to go around from house to house and detail people`s cars. I see why the best detail is so expensive now. It takes many hours to complete, and the guy had to buy all manner of stuff just to be able to do it.
 
TMQ said:
Video...

Point made...

watch

Hope this helps....!

Tom
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That video does help. Pretty much clears up the fog in my head about the subject. Much appreciated!!

But now, more info floats to my ears. What`s this? Some people use a degreaser after their polish? (before waxing) Why? I was thinking you just waxed right over the top of your polish job.

And buffing cloths. Are there two different types of buffing cloths? One for buffing off polish, and one for buffing off wax?
 
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