Natty's Blue or UPP...

I actually use a combination of both a few glazes, UPP, and natty's blue on my own car. The glazes and the carnauba enhance wetness and depth. I threw a few coats of UPP into the combo because it helps the metallic pop which I love.
 
BlackSunshine said:
Clay

Optimum Polish

Clearkote Red Moose Machine Glaze

Clearkote Yellow Creme Wax

Natty's Blue

Maintain with Clearkote Quikshine



What does the Yellow Creme Wax do under the Nattys? I do a similar process, but I dont' do the wax under the wax Does it just add durablity? It seems redundant, like two coats of Nattys would produce similar results.

Any thoughts?
 
chpsk8 said:
What does the Yellow Creme Wax do under the Nattys? I do a similar process, but I dont' do the wax under the wax Does it just add durablity? It seems redundant, like two coats of Nattys would produce similar results.

Any thoughts?



When I did the process I outlined, I was basically doing exactly what was suggested from Everett at Clearkote, as I was so confused with the product line-up and what went where. The RMG made the paint very wet looking and very glossy, highlighting the metallic flake. It looked great. Immediately following the RMG application was the YCW, via PC, and it gave the paint the depth I was looking for. It made the paint look much more three dimensional than just the RMG alone. Now, when I did this process the FIRST time, I topped it off with CMW, which darkened the paint. So I had all kinds of effects going on. I eventually topped with a fresh layer of Natty's Blue which very well may negate the need for either the YCW or RMG, as it is a very flashy wax, highly reflective, and glossy on my dark metallic blue.



I have yet to use the YCW alone so I can't comment on it as a stand alone product, but it did help after the glaze/before the CMW. If I remember correctly, it's got some cleaning agents in it, or at least some heavy fillers.



From the Clearkote website: "Makes paint and plastic surfaces smoother. Silicone free."

Here is the e-mail I got back from Clearkote when I e-mailed them about their products:



Ultimate WET LOOK

Machine:

Wash the car. Dry it off. Use the "Red Moose Machine Glaze" This is used to remove those "spider web scratches and holograms from the surface. Use the Yellow Moose Cream Wax. (This improves the reflective gloss). Then put a layer of our Carnauba Moose wax. (This seals the surface and gives the wet look). Maintain with Quik Shine. (A Q.D.).





By hand:

Same as above, except, use the Vanilla Moose Wax Hand Glaze. The end result will not be quite as wet looking as the machine steps. It is still very impressive to see.

You don't need the Blue Moose or the Compound Moose for your issues. They are to aggressive

I hope this helps.

Everett Glass

ClearKote Products







I've seen very little mention of YCW here on Autopia, but those who do speak of it seem to highly regard it.
 
BlackSunshine said:
When I did the process I outlined, I was basically doing exactly what was suggested from Everett at Clearkote, snip....



I've seen very little mention of YCW here on Autopia, but those who do speak of it seem to highly regard it.



Hmmmm... very interesting. I think I should be adding a sealant of some type to my process, or at least something to give me durability. Nattys is good, but i'm sure it won't last more than a month around here. I tried NXT, but wasn't all that impressed with the durability. One tunnel wash and it was almost gone, the second tunnel wash resulted in the NXT stripping off completely. Needless to say I stopped gonig there and bought a gallon of QEW so I dont' strip my work so soon.



I've been thinking of hitting the GS with some Z2 Pro, then topping with Nattys. I did something similar with Z2 and S100 last year. The S100 made the paint rich and wet looking, although it didsn't stick around much either. Winters around here can be pretty harsh. :(
 
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