My take on NITRO SEAL

Thomas Dekany

New member
Edited on 8.29.2011



Day 1



Nitro Seal was applied to the hood and both front fenders as a test spot.



The panels were made as perfect as possible before hand. Last step was HD UNO on a finishing pad.



They were finished around 11:30am



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We have all seen David's video and how it should be applied by hand and a yellow applicator pad as per 3D.



However I always apply LSPs with a polisher for an even thin layer and I don't care to waste products . This time was no different and out came my PC.



I was very well aware that PART A was thin and that one needed to use only a tiny amount to cover a panel.



I decided to put 3 small drops on a blue pad.



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This turned out to be way too much!!!!!! The above amount could have easily covered 2 whole vans. I kept working it in but the "damage" was done.



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After a few minutes I stopped spreading Part A and changed pads.



Out came Part B, which is thicker but I decided to start with 1 drop.



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This turned out to be not enough, so I added another drop. That was the right amount.



Worked Part B in for several minutes on speed 2 just like Part A.



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After a short time Part B was wiped off and since 1-over application of Part A, 2-not letting it cure long enough before topping it with Part B, 3 - wife



needed the car, I ended up with some streaking here and there. Wasn't too worried, I just told myself that once the van was back home I will just re do



the 3 panels that evening.



Once the van was back in the garage that evening, it was gently QDed. Next I started polishing it with my Flex 3401 and a green CCS pad. This is where I



ran into another issue.



HOT PANELS!!!!



They didn't want to cool off. So after wasting 45 minutes, I gave up.



Day 2





Got up extra early and scraped off NS with UNO and the green CCS pad. This time only 1 drop of Part A was added to the pad, but decided to use my



FLEX 3401 for application with 6.5" CCS pads. Part B was 2 drops as the first time around



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Everything went smooth as expected. This time I waited 30 minutes before I applied Part B and about 25 minutes before I removed Part B.



Once again, during the removal of Part B I couldn't help noticing how THICK the paint felt as I was wiping off the residue. I have never experienced this with any other LSP.



Now the bad news.



Out of nowhere the following am we had pretty heavy rain by the time I got up. (summers are pretty much rain free in Oregon)



According to 3D NS needs 24 hours before any water should touch it. (it was dry for about 20 hours)



Which means that I need to redo it once again, but at least that will force me to do the whole van instead of just part of it.



Look wise on this color at least - I can't see much of a difference between NS and Poxy, which is very good since I consider Poxy one of the best looking LSPs out there.



In closing I'll say that I agree with David and Barry - 3D has another winner product.



Can't wait to apply it to my car.



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Sorry, I couldn't finish writing everything I wanted to last night - yes, the flex works very well with both Part A and Part B. Or any other lsp for that matter.



wascallyrabbit said:
The flex work well for putting on a and b?
 
Part A - I suggest blue or red pads (very soft ones as the sealant is very thin)



Part B - I really like black pads, or the green polishing pad from 3D which are a little firmer (because the wax is thick and you want a pad that can help spreading it)



Speed wise I'd use 2 on the Flex 3401 or speed 3 on the GG's PC.




wascallyrabbit said:
what speed and pads are you using to apply ns?
 
Thanks Thomas, I prefer to use a PC to apply LSP's too. I still have some new red pads and well as a couple gold pads. I like red for wax like AG HD or Megs 16 (yeah - still have a tin).



That Part A looks great, 2 drops and it spreads like crazy- I am sold!
 
Thanks for the update Thomas. I never would have thought about applying NS with a FLEX. Just shows how versatile the product really is. I still can't get over how wet part A is. I've soaked my applicator pad in APC for days and it's still oily. You'd think that the surface would stay the same way, but right after part B bonds to part A it's linked up and wipes off easily.
 
Thanks David - yeah, I've never seen anything like Part A. Love it!



I also want to apologize for a "weak" write up. I had someone drive over 1000 miles to be trained by me and I didn't want to waste his time for my benefit. But the paint was looking so good, I couldn't help myself. Those 3 panels had to have NS. :D
 
According to 3D NS needs 24 hours before any water should touch it. (it was dry for about 20 hours)



Which means that I need to redo it once again, but at least that will force me to do the whole van instead of just part of it.

I would have thought 24hrs is an approximation and that 20hrs is close enough to 24hrs.
 
I talked with Tunch the other day - needs 24 hours. I NSed my car yesterday and letting it cure in the garage for a while. It has been 22 hours so far Part B is curing with Part A :D
 
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