TSXWench
New member
My car is silver also and I cannot see any marring under direct sunlight or halogen lights. I can only see my defects when I'm in a parking lot under the lights. I guess I'll have to do all my polishing at Walmart 

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Accumulator said:If the car's just been sitting, and hasn't been touched, then the marring was always there. Must not've been as visible under the halogens as it is in sunlight. That's one reason why I do most of my inspection under high-wattage incandescents instead of halogensIt can pay to use multiple light sources when inspecting, less chance of surprises like this one.
In many cases *IMO* there's nothing wrong with a product "hiding" some marring. Just use a long-lasting LSP to seal in the "fillers" and it'll look good for a long time. Yeah, on some cars I'll occasionally polish out all the marring but it's not the only approach for everyone every time. Consider that many (most?) people mar the paint again in short order and if you keep polishing it all the time you'll eventually take off too much clear/paint. A color like that, with a little better prep workcan look fine for a long, long time without being literally perfect.
And yeah, "IPA" is "rubbing alcohol" though the concentration can vary. No, no, I don't mean "IPA" as in India Pale Ale![]()
Accumulator said:.......
Heh heh, with all the fancy lights out there, the old fashioned lightbulbs are still the best for this job.
One invaluable trick is to use this type of light in an otherwise dark shop. Move the light around and change your viewing angle- counter-intuitive as it might be, you usually don't want the most direct illumination/viewing angle... keep at it for a little bit and suddenly you'll get everything just right and *ta-dah* you'll see all the marring, and I do mean *all* of it (even on silver).
Ever since I discovered this type of lighting, no more surprises under those "special" lights at night![]()
superstring said:I concur absolutely. :xyxthumbs When I first used AIO/SG, I took some of the "aero" bits off my car and worked on them in the house. That night the hood scoop was sitting under a 40W incandescent bulb in an otherwise dark room and, walking by casually, I suddenly noticed streaking left by the SG that had been "completely invisible" before.
Grouse said:yeah all cut/polish products that are not LSP's
sftempest66 said:alright, well I'll definitely pick up a fixture that is portable and that is capable of handling bulbs with wattages up to 300W, and for the next detail I'll mix up a batch of 50/50 alcohol and water so I can get all of the compound off...now with the polish, is it safe to just remove the product from the car with just a plain microfiber? or should I also use the mixture to remove the polish? and one more question, what should I apply the EX with caranuba with...I ordered two gray pads with my PC but they seem to buff on a little bit of the wax and then they just seem to buff it right off...should I apply it by hand, because I've been applying it by hand with just plain applicator pads from pep boys (meguiars gold class or whatever) should I apply it with something else? I'm confused :nervous2: :help:
superstring said:Not too sure what you're getting at when you say "is it safe to just remove the product from the car with just a plain microfiber? or should I also use the mixture to remove the polish?" Yes, use the mixture with a MF cloth to remove the Optimum. That's the whole idea.
I apply EX with a foam applicator by hand. Really easy on and off. Nothing wrong with using the PC, but if you apply a LSP like EX with the PC you will get a much thinner application that may look like it's been taken off by the buffer. I guess it's a matter of getting used to your product and the method of application....thin and even is good.
Also, I don't think it's necessary to go to really high wattage incandescents. Like Accumulator alluded to, it's more the angle of the light source that's going to show up any imperfections rather than the wattage. I think his idea of using a trouble light and passing it over the surface makes a lot of sense.
Grouse said:yes use the sch/wat mix to remove all polishes.
then i would add a couple of layers of sealant (ex) 12 hours apart then top with natty's
klnyc said:It's possible to get rid of 100% light marring,cob webs,etc?
superstring said:I don't think it's necessary to go to really high wattage incandescents. Like Accumulator alluded to, it's more the angle of the light source that's going to show up any imperfections rather than the wattage. I think his idea of using a trouble light and passing it over the surface makes a lot of sense.