My new toy arrived today
- Thread starter VaderGT
- Start date
Evan.J
I'm addicted to Shine
Ok looking forward to helping you out. Maybe its a bad Machine.
opcorn
TroyScherer
Ummm.... Ya.....
I have a Rupes15 and have not had any of these issues that are being discussed.
Because of the larger throw you don't need the downforce for correction. As long as you keep the pad flat it will spin. (At least for me so far) Also the slower speeds can be your friend. Just like not using a Meg's MF pad on a GG polisher above 4-5. As they tend to overheat and explode.
Also:
Ronkh
Wax Waster
Ok so i made a video and doing more work on wifes car. Today things are working much better. I am able to buff off the CG v36 not super easy but not to awful. nothing like lastnight. Difference is its cool today and I have the garage door open. Lastnight I was in garage with door shut and AC on. I have no idea if that made the difference. I dont know if the gummy polish lastnight was causing more bogging but it didnt do it nearly as bad today. I still cant explain what went on lastnight with all my issues with wiping off and such and now today same car its a total 180.
I will post video shortly
I will post video shortly
Swanicyouth
New member
Maybe its just cause its a new machine and the tolerances are tight? I understand this machine has some type of "drag" on the backing plate (hence "washer mod"). Maybe the "drag" has to break in a little or the new bearings are tight?
I do like how with the Griots how almost all the speeds are actually useable.
Someone needs to come up with some true of backing plate with some type of mechanism that will extend the throw of the Griots. Any inventors out there?
I do like how with the Griots how almost all the speeds are actually useable.
Someone needs to come up with some true of backing plate with some type of mechanism that will extend the throw of the Griots. Any inventors out there?
Evan.J
I'm addicted to Shine
Steve you usually the one coming up with little inventions and fixes maybe its calling your name!:lol2:
forgot to post video
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQ5PuSHsH7A]Rupes LHR 15 Bigfoot testing - YouTube[/ame]
I still have no idea why the same combo of pad and polish today worked so much better. It wasnt super easy to remove but wasnt really that hard and once removed I didnt have to clay the paint to get it fully removed. Only thing I can think of was because the garage door was open today and lastnight was closed with AC on
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQ5PuSHsH7A]Rupes LHR 15 Bigfoot testing - YouTube[/ame]
I still have no idea why the same combo of pad and polish today worked so much better. It wasnt super easy to remove but wasnt really that hard and once removed I didnt have to clay the paint to get it fully removed. Only thing I can think of was because the garage door was open today and lastnight was closed with AC on
TroyScherer
Ummm.... Ya.....
I'm glad its working for you.
A few comments:
- I know Subaru paint is notoriously sticky and hard to work with. I would try working on harder paint first to get the hang of the Rupes. I have been using my Acura and VW to get a feeling for both ends of the spectrum.
- I would suggest priming the pad, and then using less polish.
- I would try using a polish that breaks down so you can see when its time to stop and wipe off. (Once a polish is broken down it should be semi-clear)
I did her entire car lastnight..I got a pretty good feel for the machine now. I was able to get it done in like 3hr for a 1stepper with a green buffnshine and v36. I wish i could use something else but this paint is soo stupid nothing seems to be user friendly on removal. I have been trying to find something and so far the CG v polishes have worked best. I dont know what the deal is though. My car is a 2012 WRX she got a 2012 Impreza we both have dark gray metallic but my car is less of a hassle on polish removal her car is so much worse. the rupes does pretty good at speed doing sections. I use 3 drops after that new pad amount
Evan.J
I'm addicted to Shine
Just to add to what Troy has said priming the pad is key. You should try HD polish I have found this to work great with the rupes.
Dont buff on those body lines!
Like you stated i think the conditions the first night played a roll in how the machine would with the pad and polish and how all those worked with Subaru paint.
ZL1Mark
Allergic to One Product
Exactly my thoughts. I've said it before. However, with a lot of practice and proper technique, you can achieve great results with the Rupes, but it definitely does bog down with the slightest tilt of the pad(even with the KB washer mod). The Rupes does very well on flat panels.
Woob
New member
Firstly, ask yourself why you need so much pressure and intensive speed. Moving from a 8mm throw to 21mm throw is HUGELY different in paint action. 5-6 speed in general for most paint correction people is a bit high especially if you are using microfiber pads (or non foam based).
The griots on speed 6 is pretty strong, but I've read if you measure the OPM's the motor overcompensates and revs extremely high (something like 6K+ of some sort). With the 15, get a nice flat pad (B&S work great) and just learn the overall smoothness/feel with the right products (non diminishing). Pad Prime and load it up, there is a reason why most hardcore paint correction detailers use it.
Just because it may seem to bog or not seem as fast doesn't mean there isn't any polishing/leveling occurring on the paint. I have used the 21 vs 15, IMO the 21 is a big tank while the 15 is exactly for detailing, smooth easy polishing.
The griots on speed 6 is pretty strong, but I've read if you measure the OPM's the motor overcompensates and revs extremely high (something like 6K+ of some sort). With the 15, get a nice flat pad (B&S work great) and just learn the overall smoothness/feel with the right products (non diminishing). Pad Prime and load it up, there is a reason why most hardcore paint correction detailers use it.
Just because it may seem to bog or not seem as fast doesn't mean there isn't any polishing/leveling occurring on the paint. I have used the 21 vs 15, IMO the 21 is a big tank while the 15 is exactly for detailing, smooth easy polishing.
groebuck
New member
Wooooob!!!
The Driver
Detailers Workshop
If the paint is picky... change the polish.
I've used PB, CG and various others as far as polishes. When I run into a problem, I immediately drop back to menzerna. It out performs... everytime. The only other line up I could swear by is meg's.
I' am interested to try HD stuff though.
I've used PB, CG and various others as far as polishes. When I run into a problem, I immediately drop back to menzerna. It out performs... everytime. The only other line up I could swear by is meg's.
I' am interested to try HD stuff though.
Evan.J
I'm addicted to Shine
You won't be disappointed.
guess you missed the part I said I tried M101, FG400, Sonax Perfect Finish, CarPro Fixer, CG V36. Menzerna is an absolute no no on my subaru paint. I might as well spray it with concrete and quit there. It does NOT buff off
I have a sample of HD polish i have been wanting to try and see if it acts just as bad on removal as everything else I have tried on this paint
The Driver
Detailers Workshop
What machine are you using? I find FG likes to be wet. You CANNOT dry buff with FG. The best results I get from FG are right after I do a pad clean an a spin dry. That level of dampness seems to be perfect, anything more you'll dilute the cutting power any less an it's sure to cake.
I was experimenting with the water ratio's an polish ratio's, I have to say it weighs HUGE on any chem cutter. I did a whole panel in one shot and another took me over 6 passes. Play with the pad dampness and 2 or 3 quick sprays on the pad as a topper.
Hope that helps!