My experience with Surbuf & the Kevin Brown Method.

R

RenuAuto

New member
M105, M205, some Surbuf Pads, Orange LC's on the old school Porter Cable (is there a big difference between the new/old?).





I've had great results with it. No complaints yet :shrug







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Untitled from Grant Liban on Vimeo.
 
wow sickness man. So where did you get your surburf pads from and how do you like them?



I heard they are suppose to work good but autogeek site says they have little to no cut . . . . is that true?



By the looks of your results ur doing something right . . . . . and i guess i need more pads because you have like 10 of each color LoL.
 
Great work! I too love the B&W shots. A standard 7424 PC will work fine with these pads.



I'm down to one rotary that I just use for spinning pads dry. Surbuf pads (thanks to Kevin Brown) have changed the way I polish paint for the last year.





vtec92civic said:
wow sickness man. So where did you get your surburf pads from and how do you like them?



I heard they are suppose to work good but autogeek site says they have little to no cut . . . . is that true?



By the looks of your results ur doing something right . . . . . and i guess i need more pads because you have like 10 of each color LoL.
Click to expand...



Top of the line has the best price right now on the 6" sufbuf pads.



Sounds like someone one that site has little to no experience with the surbuf pads if they are making that claim.
 
Nice work and excellent photography capturing before and after.





vtec92civic said:
I heard they are suppose to work good but autogeek site says they have little to no cut . . . . is that true?
Click to expand...





Might have been a forum member that said that but no one that works at Autogeek has said that?



Post a link to that comment if you can find it as I'd like to read it.





The Surbuf pads actually cut very quickly and the results are very impressive. One reason for this but not the only reason, (people is because the pads are thin and this makes it easier for a DA Polisher to maintain rotation. Thick pads, like thick foam pads, the foam absorbs and dissipates the power coming out of the tool and you see this as less or stalled out pad rotating on a DA Polisher with a Free Rotating Spindle Assembly.





I posted some pictures of removing #3000 Unigrit sanding marks here and and using the KBM with the Surbuf on the Meguiar's G110v2 it only took about 6 passes to completely obliterate the sanding marks.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogeek-net/127822-surbuf-microfinger-buffing-pads-now-autogeek.html





Here's the good news... we'll be showing these pads at all our classes that's how much I personally like them.



So again, not sure where you read the comment you referenced but if you can find it send me the link and I'll check it out.





Cool pads and definitely a must have pad in your pad selection.





:)
 
Honestly, all my corrections at this point (and I'm not a pro by ANY stretch) are all done KBM/Surbuf.



I'm able to M105 Surbuf a panel out and then follow up with LC White on M205. I can't tell you how fast the M205 pass takes. Takes almost no effort at all and finishes things out beautifully.



I don't even own a rotary (flame suit on).



The one thing I'm trying to improve is the useful length of the Surbuf pads. I feel like they lose their cut pretty quick as they get gummed up fast. Of course I'm brushing them out to remove some sediment, but ideally, I think I could finish a car fastest if I had more pads and just kept replacing them as I went. I imagine I need to refine my process more and I'd see more usable time out of them though. Suspect I'm using too much product right now probably.



In my experience Surbuf M105 and LC White M205 has been my favorite combination. Even on a Jet Black BMW it wasn't necessary to do any medium between those.
 
RenuAuto said:
The one thing I'm trying to improve is the useful length of the Surbuf pads. I feel like they lose their cut pretty quick as they get gummed up fast. Of course I'm brushing them out to remove some sediment, but ideally, I think I could finish a car fastest if I had more pads and just kept replacing them as I went.
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I'm still new to Surbuf pads myself, lucky for me I have a long history of always recommending to others to,





Always be open to new ideas, new products and new procedures...





And the practicing what I share with others.





I spoke with Kevin about technique with the Surbuf pads but we didn't get into the topic of pad cleaning, so maybe he'll have some more insight on this topic. I will say that I've used both a nylon brush and the Grit Guard Pad Washer to clean these pads and found that while they both worked well, the combination of first brushing the face of the Surbuf pad to lift the MicroFingers up a little and then washing them in the pad washer resulted in an almost new looking pad.



Here's something I wrote on this topic in another thread...



Cleaning the Surbuf Pads

After compounding a section it's a good idea to clean any buffing pad including the Surbuf pads. Here I'm using a Pad Conditioning Brush to remove any loose spent or used-up compounding residue out of the MicroFingers and also any removed paint that builds-up if you're doing correction work.



Because the Microfibers are incredibly tiny in diameter and short in length, the face of the pad is very easy to clean with a nylon bristle cleaning brush like you see below.



CleaningPads010.jpg




CleaningPads011.jpg








Cleaning with a Grit Guard Universal Pad Wash also does a great job or removing any paint residue and spent compound or polish. I tried a couple of different speed settings and the 5.0 seem to work best for this type of pad but you can use a slower setting if you like. The important thing to remember when using the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer is to pump the pad up and down on the Grit Guard Insert inside the Pad Washer as this is how the cleaning solution is injected against the face of the pad.



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Clean as a whislte...

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Ready to put back to work...

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I'm a big fan of pad washers, we used the Lake Country System 2000 at Meguiar's the entire time I was there but I've had a Grit Guard Pad Washer since Doug Lamb sent me a Beta Model shortly after he dialed in the design and it works very good for both wool pads, foam pads and from what I can tell the Surbuf pads too...



If you don't have a pad washer, you might look into one, they enable you to work clean, they even work great for breaking in a brand new wool pad for rotary buffing along with a spur.





:)
 
I was painting the other day using one of those edgers for cutting in along ceilings and those reminded me of these pads.

I don't have the surbuff pads so are the fingers similar in length? From the pictures I have seen these products look the same to me. I need to try these soon though.



To the OP, car looks outstanding.:bigups
 
Great work on the BMW!



One of the main reasons that the Surbuf pad is able to correct so efficiently is the amount of surface area on the pad. Foam pads have many pores and spaces in between. The Surbuf pads' Microfingers allow for large amounts of surface contact that works great with a non-diminishing abrasive product, like M105, M205, etc. If there is an abrasive particle available on every finger, you can maximize all parts of the pad and increase the overall cut.



I would not use a Surbuf pad with a wax, except D151. It's like using a cutting pad to apply a wax. Can it be done? Sure, but you really misusing the pad on a car's paint finish.





As far as cleaning goes, air is the way to go. Surbuf pads clean up very well. When you use a pad washer, there is going to be excess water left in the pad. As we know, more weight equals less cut.
 
gmblack3a said:
Top of the line has the best price right now on the 6" sufbuf pads.



Sounds like someone one that site has little to no experience with the surbuf pads if they are making that claim.
Click to expand...





could not find them on that site. can you send me a link in private message
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
As far as cleaning goes, air is the way to go. Surbuf pads clean up very well. When you use a pad washer, there is going to be excess water left in the pad. As we know, more weight equals less cut.
Click to expand...



What if the average person doesn't have an air compressor?



Anytime you clean a pad with a pad washer you have to do your best to sling some of the water out by raising the buffer up while keeping it inside the pad washer so centrifugal force will sling out some of the excess water. One thing for sure, after just about a minute of running the Surbuf pad against the Grit Guard Insert inside the Grit Guard Pad Washer the pad comes out very clean and ready to go back to work.



One thing for sure, the new generation DA Polishers like the 7424XP, the GG ROP and the Meguiar's G110v2 all have more than enough power/ability to keep pads rotating during the correction step and the fact that Surbuf pads are THIN, (which means less weight already), and also less foam interface to absorb and dissipate energy means rotating a Surbuf pad isn't a problem.



And by the way... how the heck you doing Chris?



I'm still running on the 35" Boggers you Sniped for me over a year ago while winning the eBay auction while I was in the middle of a Saturday class... (thank you)

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:xyxthumbs
 
as for using air compressor to clean the pads i always worry about the tiny little pieces of rust that fall off inside the tank blowing through the hose and inbedding itself on the pad
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
..I would not use a Surbuf pad with a wax, except D151. It's like using a cutting pad to apply a wax. Can it be done? Sure, but you really misusing the pad on a car's paint finish..
Click to expand...



Trying to use a SurBuf with a mild product is how I messed up on my Jag.



keep_it-clean said:
as for using air compressor to clean the pads i always worry about the tiny little pieces of rust that fall off inside the tank blowing through the hose and inbedding itself on the pad
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I'd always run a filter on the main airline coming out of the tank (as well as water-traps, etc. at the individual air stations).
 
Accumulator said:
I'd always run a filter on the main airline coming out of the tank (as well as water-traps, etc. at the individual air stations).
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thats good. i have seen some people run with any filters and the tiny rust pieces i mentioned other may not have thought of. and it is just something to keep in mind when using air compressors you may only think it is air coming out but there could be more in that air you cant see
 
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