Most aggressive setup for PC?

Q

qbmurderer13

New member
Hey guys, im curious as to whats the most aggressive setup (polish & pad) would be when using a PC? Would it be M105 with a 4" Wool?
 
I have read that reaular wool is not that great with a pc





so I would think the most aggresive would be 3.5" PFW and 105

but think this is overkill for most cars

what are you trying to correct?
 
BigJimZ28 said:
I have read that reaular wool is not that great with a pc...

so I would think the most aggresive would be 3.5" PFW and 105

but think this is overkill for most cars..
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Yeah, same opinion here.



I recently tried Cyclo/Edge yellow wool via both PC and Cyclo, using 1Z Pasta Intensiv (which works great via PC/3.5" PFW) and I wasn't impressed. I'd stick with PFW for PC/wool applications and with those little PFW pads, either the 1Z Pasta Intensiv or the M105 oughta do anything that's smart to do.



Anything *that* combo can't handle I'd consider wetsanding, *if* I tackled it at all- we're talking aggressive-as-rotary work here. I dunno...all the really serious correction being done these days might be impressive, but I wonder how well those thinned clearcoats are gonna hold up after a few years/decades in the sun :think:



I've overdone it with the PC/3.5" PFW on *hard* clear, and I'm not reckless by any means; if *I* can have an "oops!" I'd expect that anybody can.



Hope people doing this sort of thing are using ETGs, and have a predetermined limit figured out that they won't go past.
 
I havent used my PC yet but I was just wondering what products I should need if I were to come across a completely trashed car. Obviously a rotary would be better but just wanted the most results out of the PC. Would a 6.5" over a 4" PFW reduce the cut a bit so it wont be as dangerous to use with M105?
 
qbmurderer13 said:
I havent used my PC yet but I was just wondering what products I should need if I were to come across a completely trashed car. Obviously a rotary would be better but just wanted the most results out of the PC. Would a 6.5" over a 4" PFW reduce the cut a bit so it wont be as dangerous to use with M105?
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Probably too much. I'd stick with the 3.5" PFW's for use with the PC. You still won't have as much correction ability with the 3.5" pfw's/pc combo as you would with a PFW and rotary, so don't be *too* concerned. Just be careful. :)
 
Yeah, if you want to reduce the aggressiveness from "very" to "quite" I'd just use the M105 with a foam pad, or use the 1Z Pasta Intensive instead.



Note that if you do it right (correct speeds, moderate-or-less pressure), the 1Z isn't all *that* aggressive, especially with mild pads. I'd expect the M105 to be the same way but I won't know until after the next time I work on the M3 (I plan to use the M105 in a moderately aggressive manner on a few areas).



Trying to get the PC to spin a larger wool pad (of any type including PFW) is, IMO/IME, more likely to cause hazing/etc. than anything else.
 
I would think that Meguiar's 105 on a 3.5" Purple Foamed Wool pad may not be the most aggressive combination, but it may be the most effective aggressive combination for polishing with a PC. Since I bought my rotary I tend to not use aggressive polishes and pads with my PC, but in my experience M105 & PFW is a great combination on both rotary and PC.
 
What's the correct technique with a DA, M105, and a 4" PFW pad? Do you still use the same amount of pressure (20-25lbs) for the first few passes and then lighten up? Speed? Thanks.
 
Jam said:
What's the correct technique with a DA, M105, and a 4" PFW pad? Do you still use the same amount of pressure (20-25lbs) for the first few passes and then lighten up? Speed? Thanks.
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Noting that *I HAVE *NOT* TRIED M105/PFW VIA PC*..



I wouldn't apply much of any pressure.



When I used M105 via PC/4" yellow foam, I got good correction on hard clear without applying much pressure. Yeah, I did a few passes but everything was under control and I didn't have to worry about an "OOPS!", which *can* happen even with the PC.



When I used 1Z Pasta Intensiv via PC/PFW I didn't apply much pressure and even on Audi clear I had to be a little careful.



I can't give you a pound-figure, but I'd treat it like you were doing a finishing polish/burnishing until you see how it works. With the M105 and PFW I'd let the product/pad combo do the work. This is a whole 'nother ballgame compared to how things usually go via PC.



For that matter, I doubt that I *ever* apply 25 lbs pressure to the PC with 4" pads. When I messed up the MPV's clear (PC/4" Cyclo green/3M 05933...a not-too-aggressive combo) I was applying a bit of pressure.. and I prompty wished I'd been more gentle.
 
Jam said:
Thanks Accumulator. Makes sense to start very carefully :) I assume you had the speed set at 5?
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Yep. I find I hardly ever use speed 6 with the little pads, even though I'm generally a "use 6 when polishing" sort of guy.
 
I need to chime in here because I have a similar question about the ROB. Rather than a PC I'm using a Cyclo. I can get some great results with the Cyclo, M105, and Yellow wool, granted I have to wipe off the residue because it doesn't flash over as it does when I use a rotary, but some clients insist they don't want a rotary on their vehicle. Do I need to add a PC to my arsenal, or can you get the same results with the Cyclo? With the cyclo I've managed to get some pretty heavy oxidation removed and reveal the shine underneath.
 
bullitt21 said:
.. Rather than a PC I'm using a Cyclo. I can get some great results with the Cyclo, M105, and Yellow wool... Do I need to add a PC to my arsenal, or can you get the same results with the Cyclo? With the cyclo I've managed to get some pretty heavy oxidation removed and reveal the shine underneath.
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Ah, really glad you posted thata!



I tried the Cyclo with yellow wool and 1Z Pasta Intensiv for oxidation/marring removal and it was a *lousy*, utterly ineffective combo..great to know it works OK with the M105 (I'd been wondering about M105 via Cyclo anyhow).



The only times I use my PCs instead of my Cyclos are:

- When the Cyclo won't accomodate a vehicle's contours

- When the product flashes too fast via Cyclo

- When I have some other reason for wanting to select a specific speed

- When I need more aggressive correction than I can get via Cyclo (PC/4" > Cyclo)

- When I want to do a smaller area that I can do via Cyclo

- When I want to use a larger pad for LSP application/buffing
 
The Cyclo and M105 with yellow wool does work for me, I just don't like having to wipe off the residue unlike when I use the Dewalt rotary with the M105, the paint almost looks ready for LSP. I'm currently using the M83 after the 105, then following with M26 or 2.0. I'm taking on more Exotic clientele now, and they like to hear different brands thrown at them; they eat it up. With that in mind I took some advice from fellow Autopians and ordered some Wolgang 3.0 and the Zaino line. I feel like if the Exotic owners want 5 shots of Zaino, then I'll give it to them.

I'm not trying to steal this thread, and to get back on topic, my question is can you apply Zaino with a Cyclo with good results? Which Pads?
 
bullitt21 said:
.. I'm currently using the M83 after the 105, then following with M26 or 2.0...
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If you can get #83 to finish out LSP-ready your rotary skills are infinitely better than mine (not that *that* is saying much).



.. to get back on topic, my question is can you apply Zaino with a Cyclo with good results? Which Pads?
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Sorry, dunno...never used Zaion :nixweiss. I woud *guess* NOT, as the Cyclo is about the last machine I'd apply a sealant with. Much as I love the thing, it doesn't seem suited for that...I'd expect it to flash the Z *way* too fast, so fast it'd be hard to do a decent job. It works OK for hybrid products like 845 and NXT v2.0, but I wouldn't try it with a straight sealant.
 
to answer the OP...



i've found LC yellow 5.5 for broad areas and the little 4" pad for small areas can be pretty awesome in terms of aggressiveness considering it's on a PC. i've used both with optimum compound (not hyper) and gotten GREAT results, esp correcting/lessening major scratches. just add pressure after you initially get the product spread around evenly on a lower speed, then lighten up to machine weight, kick it up to high speed and let the pad build up a little heat. just keep checking your work after each pass. you will naturally have to refine the surface after that, but i think you'll get what your after.
 
Ok guys, I'm definately missing a big step after I apply the M83. What do you all recommend to get the paint LSP ready. Keep in mind that I'm trying new ideas so it doesn't have to be Megs. Thanks
 
bullitt21 said:
Ok guys, I'm definately missing a big step after I apply the M83. What do you all recommend to get the paint LSP ready. Keep in mind that I'm trying new ideas so it doesn't have to be Megs. Thanks
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i'll throw my opinion out there...clear hardness dependent, gray pad and Optimum polish or gray pad with poli-seal. no hiding and should really finesse the paint for the LSP.



following the latest trend, i'm going to start going with an even softer pad and TBD product to see if it improves things even further...probably poli-seal but i'm not sure.
 
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