More questions from someone new to the PC

I

imported_RedlineIRL

New member
After reading a lot of posts on here from new people using the PC, I'm almost scared to use it now. It seems buffer trails and holograms are common when using an agressive polishe to remove swirs. Since my car is GM bright red and easily shows imperfections, I'm not jumping in first thing on it with an agressive polish.





I'm planning on using SSR1 on it until I really get the hang of the PC. I plan on using the SSR1 with a white pad. Is this polish and pad combo even possible of creating hazing or micro marring, or should I use a softer pad? Is the SSR1 capable of removing any swirling or wash marring from paint finishes?



Here's my plan to use eventually let me know if I should change anything in my process.



Meguiars Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner - Lake Country 6.5" CCS White Pad



SSR1 - Lake Country 6.5" CCS White Pad



Red Moose Glaze or Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish - Lake Country CCS 6.5" Grey, blue, or red pad



Undecided sealer or wax - hand
 
A P/C is nothing like a rotory. Therefore, you probably couldn't damage your GM paint with one if you tried. I know this stuff is scary at first but a P/C is an extremely mild approach and a white pad is even more mild. Just watch a couple of videos and give it a try. You're not gonna damage anything unless you tilt the machine and the backing plate strikes something.



Patrick
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
A P/C is nothing like a rotory. Therefore, you probably couldn't damage your GM paint with one if you tried. I know this stuff is scary at first but a P/C is an extremely mild approach and a white pad is even more mild. Just watch a couple of videos and give it a try. You're not gonna damage anything unless you tilt the machine and the backing plate strikes something.



Patrick
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Well it's not the backing plate that scare me, I'll be extremely careful when it comes to that. I'm just scared of the buffer trails or holograms that could be an extreme pain to remove, that's why I want to start very mild so I don't have to worry about it at first.



Could you direct me to the links for some videos? I've only seen the ones from Autogeek.
 
RedlineIRL said:
Well it's not the backing plate that scare me, I'll be extremely careful when it comes to that. I'm just scared of the buffer trails or holograms that could be an extreme pain to remove, that's why I want to start very mild so I don't have to worry about it at first.



Could you direct me to the links for some videos? I've only seen the ones from Autogeek.
Click to expand...





1.)you can't make holograms with a PC

2.)holograms are easy to remove

3.)MAN-UP...... just do it, take you time and if there are any problems we are here to help:hifive:
 
I was in your position just last month.



I finally "manned up" and purchased the PC and complimenting products to use on my Z and here are the results:

http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/99077-daytona-blue-detail-1st-time-pc-use.html



It took a little while to get used to the device since I've used a mechanical sander before. I basically had to keep reminding myself that I wasn't sanding the paint!



And here is my second attempt with the PC:

http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/99939-post-turkey-day-detail-2002-jeep-wrangler.html



I felt the Jeep came out very well and a lot of paint defects were removed; thus displaying what the PC is capable of.



Don't be worried, give it a try!
 
I got mine at the end of summer and thanks to many her picked up some 1Z products and polished my wifes car. I was very happy. I did though fall in to the trap of trying to do too much or correct too much without enough experiense and did damage the paint. Search for my user name in the click and brag if you want to see it. Its not too bad. Subaru's have soft paint I jumped to 4" pads right off the start which makes the PC a lot more dangerous



I don't agree with the statements that you can't do damage with a PC, but I do agree its pretty easy and and if you are using large pads and don't get too aggressive with correction you will be more then fine. Thats my fairly limited experience, but it is experience...



chris
 
As a recent former first time user you have nothing to worry about. Like the previouse guys said don't let the backing plate hit anything and you'll be fine. Just man up and do it. I used an ornage pad and XMT2 my first time and then a white pad and XMT1. You said your car is GM rad well red4.8 and I got a PC together about 6 months ago and here is what his red silverado looked like after.

http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/96803-first-time-pc.html
 
BigJimZ28 said:
1.)you can't make holograms with a PC
Click to expand...

Why is that? It's a rotating object.



99BlueAngel said:
As a recent former first time user you have nothing to worry about. Like the previouse guys said don't let the backing plate hit anything and you'll be fine. Just man up and do it. I used an ornage pad and XMT2 my first time and then a white pad and XMT1. You said your car is GM rad well red4.8 and I got a PC together about 6 months ago and here is what his red silverado looked like after.

http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/96803-first-time-pc.html
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Nice turnout. Were you able to clear everything out the first time with the orange pad? From what I've heard GM clear is hard. Did the XMT2 cause any hazing before following up with XMT2?
 
RedlineIRL said:
Well it's not the backing plate that scare me, I'll be extremely careful when it comes to that. I'm just scared of the buffer trails or holograms that could be an extreme pain to remove, that's why I want to start very mild so I don't have to worry about it at first.



Could you direct me to the links for some videos? I've only seen the ones from Autogeek.
Click to expand...



You can leave holograms/buffer trails with a pc. Usually a combination of using too much polish and not working it in long enough. But it can be cleaned up with a white pad and a finishing polish.



If you plan on doing correction you are going to need different pads. Lake country white pads are finishing pads. I would suggest 5" orange pads. The pc is pretty easy to use and i'm sure you'll get the hang of it in no time. But when you start doing correction with it you are going to find out that small pads are much better.
 
BigJimZ28 said:
no it's a random orbiting object!

the dual action of the pc will not allow it to make holograms
Click to expand...

Ok, maybe I'm using the wrong term. From some of the threads I've seen, people have created trails or micromarring in the areas where the PC was used. Which of course was probably caused by the pad and polish combo, or not using a finishing polish. From most of these threads I've seen the improper techniques will really show out on black or red cars, and yes my car is a really bright red.





The only kind of buffer I have ever used is the one speed type off buffers that you can buy at Sears, Lowes, or any autoparts store. So as you can tell I'm new to the world of the PC, and I just want to make the first experince one that isn't going to be horrific. So I just want to start out with the most fault-proof process possible. Even If I can remove a tiny bit of swirls I would be happy.
 
Maybe do like some of the people on here and go to a body shop and see if they have any extra fenders or hoods. That way you could practice on junk parts first. I plan on doing my civic's hood first since I'm getting a carbon fiber one soon.
 
RedlineIRL- Unless GM has changed their clearcoats since my '00 Blazer and '04 Yukon, there's no reason to worry about using a PC on it. Really.



Yeah you can do damage with 4" pads. I've done it. But that was on soft paint and I was being fairly aggressive. This isn't that sort of situation and you'll be erring on the side of caution, I can tell from the tone of your posts.



The products you're considering are too mild to do any damage. In fact, I'd suggest you use something more aggressive (I sure wouldn't bother using that Deep Crystal step #1).



Use a mild product (I'd recommend 1Z brand polish, as I always to do PC-newbies) on a polishing pad and things will go fine. The worst that should happen is that you'll use a nice, safe, mild combo (of polish and pad) and it'll be *so* safe that it won't do any significant correction. But things'll still look better.



I've mentioned this one before: a lady friend of mine (forty-something MBA with no detailing experience) borrowed my PC so her husband (whom I'd coached in this stuff) could do her Lexus. He didn't get around to it so she decided to just do it herself. No prior experience, no coaching from me, just common sense...and it turned out great, no problems of any kind. Yeah, she was justifiably proud of herself :D FWIW she used 1Z metallic polish on a polishing pad, and then topped with a paste wax.



Heh heh, you couldn't do damage with 1Z metallic polish if you tried ;)
 
Civicman86 said:
Maybe do like some of the people on here and go to a body shop and see if they have any extra fenders or hoods. That way you could practice on junk parts first. I plan on doing my civic's hood first since I'm getting a carbon fiber one soon.
Click to expand...



It's not that easy to get a spare panel. At least not one with a decent finish you can practice on.



If you are really that worried then borrow a friends beater car for a day and practice on that. But the pc is pretty easy to learn/use so i don't see you having any problems trying you your own car.



It looks like you've already the research. Now it's time to start polishing!
 
RedlineIRL said:
Why is that? It's a rotating object.





Nice turnout. Were you able to clear everything out the first time with the orange pad? From what I've heard GM clear is hard. Did the XMT2 cause any hazing before following up with XMT2?
Click to expand...







Most of it cleared up with one pass. I did not see any hazing from the XMT2.

It looks good for now, this spring Menzerna will be used...:spot
 
you wont do any damage with it. I had a tough enough time correcting gm paint. Just make sure you work the product in properly and dont use to much.
 
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