More newbie help requested

T

Taxlady

New member
I've been reading posts here for a few days now as well as the e-book, so I'm almost ready to get started. My husband (not interested in cars) and I bought a 1995 Volvo 850 this April. It's got dark green metallic paint. It was washed at a hand car wash about a week ago. It looks pretty good, but I haven't checked it for scratches, swirl marks, etc. I'm going to wash it today or tomorrow. I've never washed a car before (except helping my dad when I was a kid). Then, I'm going to evaluate the paint, etc.



I went and bought a bunch of stuff:



1. Lambswool car washing mitts

2. California blade

3. TurtleWax micorfibre cloths (three)

4. An eight pack of Simoniz 100% cotton terry cloth towels

5. Meguiar's Deep Crystal Car Wash

6. Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner

7. Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Polish

8. Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Liquid Car Wax

9. Mother's California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System (It was the only clay bar that I could find.)

10. 303 Aerospace Protectant

11. Meguiar's Quik Detailer



I still have to buy a step-stool so I can reach the whole roof. I'm going to buy the Meguiar's MF cloth (at four times the price of the TW mf cloth), so I can see which is better.



There was an employee at Canadian Tire who helped me pick out stuff. He details show cars, and we had a nice chat. He says that the Simoniz towels work fine, even if they are made in India or Pakistan.



So, does that sound reasonable? Well, other than the fact that I bought it before I assessed the condition of the finish on my car. ;)



Have I forgotten anything else?



I'll take some pictures of the Volvo, once it's washed. It's a bit dusty right now.
 
That list will definately do to get you into the world of detailing. The only thing that catches my eye is the gold class wax. That is a good wax, but it is really a cleaner wax. If you are going to use the deep crystal system, I would have recommended the deep crystal wax. The gold class will actually remove the deep crystal polish as it is applied.



You could either skip the polish, or go and get some Meguiars #20 High-tech yellow wax, or the deep crystal wax to finish your three step process.



Enjoy your project and have fun! :xyxthumbs
 
Sounds like a fine start to me.



You might want to experiment a little with the polishes and paint cleaner. The cleaner will remove most scratches and dull paint but will leave little microscratches. The polish is designed to remove and fill those, leaving a glossy finish. The Gold Class may do the same thing as the polish so try a small section using cleaner+Gold Class and another section with cleaner+polish+Glod Class. Look at them closely and decide which gives you better results for the amount of work.



But whatever you do, enjoy the process and take before and after pics so well can congratulate you on a job well done.
 
laynlow: You mean #26 hi-tech yellow wax, don't you?? #20 is Polymer Sealant. ;) :p



otherwise yeah just what the other guys said about the polish issue with gold class. Alot of people don't realize that the GC is cleaner wax. My neighbor is a die-hard meguiar's user and even he was not aware of this. (I'm lookin to convert him to Zaino though hehe)
 
SLPCar Luvr said:
laynlow: You mean #26 hi-tech yellow wax, don't you?? #20 is Polymer Sealant. ;) :p



otherwise yeah just what the other guys said about the polish issue with gold class. Alot of people don't realize that the GC is cleaner wax. My neighbor is a die-hard meguiar's user and even he was not aware of this. (I'm lookin to convert him to Zaino though hehe)
Click to expand...



I want a polymer sealant. Is the the Deep Crystal wax a polymer? I'm not sure I can get the #20. I did see one that was yellow something or other. When I phoned Meguiar's, they told me that the Gold Class was a polymer. The descriptions of the products on their website aren't very helpful about stuff like that. Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't I use a wax on top of a polymer sealnt for extra shine if I want to.
 
Yes, the #20 is a polymer sealant. Yes, you can top a polymer with a wax to enhance the appearance if you like. Just be sure you are using a pure wax, not a cleaner/wax. Otherwise, your polymer will be compromised. Nothing in the deep crystal system is a polymer, including the wax.



For example, it would be ok to use the polymer #20 and then top with the #26 High-Tech Yellow wax. If you can't get #20, an excellent substitute would be the Medallion Premium Paint Protection. It is a polymer/wax blend, and is more durable than the #26. If you go for the Medallion, skip the polymer, and apply the Medallion after you polish.
 
Who makes the Medallion Premium Paint Protection? There's lots of stuff I can't get here in Canada without mail ordering from the States, and that's a PITA. On the other hand, my hubby wants us to make some shopping trips to Vermont, so...
 
First: have fun!!! play in the suds whatever it takes.

Tips:

1. Be sure to wipe the blade after each pass.



2. Mother's clay is great, by using the QD with mothers you can avoid doing a second wash. Claying is all in the feel. You are after a slick surface. Cut the bar in 1/3 sections for ease of use. Do not get water on the mothes bar and never ,never, never drop the bar. The bar is easy to drop because it is wet with QD and you are sliding the bar to obtain a very slick surface ( the slickness of the surface is how you know the surface is clean). Then mf any residue.



3. After claying is the time to evaluate your paint. Is it beautiful, then lock it in ( seal ). If you are not happy, then start a new thread and tell us why.
 
laynlow said:
That list will definately do to get you into the world of detailing. The only thing that catches my eye is the gold class wax. That is a good wax, but it is really a cleaner wax. If you are going to use the deep crystal system, I would have recommended the deep crystal wax. The gold class will actually remove the deep crystal polish as it is applied.
Click to expand...



laynlow:



So, do all cleaner waxes remove any polish you use when you apply the wax? Is this true for the Mother's Cal Gold wax also?



taxlady:



Do post pics when you are through! Love the Volvo 850 (mine's a nautica blue 855) and love to see a well-detailed one!!
 
Thanks for all the great info everyone. I will definitely post before and after pictures. It's raining today and I notice that the rain beads into tiny (2-3mm, approx. 1/4") beads. So, I may not have to do too much yet. On the other hand, there was a sunny bit and I could see swirl marks galore.



I just phoned Meguiar's Canada and the rep said that the Gold Class is a polish wax. That it is polymer and that it is definitely NOT a cleaner wax. I made him repeat that. He suggested that I use Scratch X for the swirl marks and then use the Gold Class. What do my new friends here think of these suggestions?



The forecast is for rain all day today and all weekend. :( I guess I'll just do the inside for now. At least I work from a home office, so I can do this stuff during the week too. I really want to take some decent "before" photos, and right now all you would see is a beaded water. I tried taking photos in the garage, but they were just way too dark.
 
Gold class gives a beautiful shine however, I gave away my bottle of gold class because the shine just did not last long enough for all my hard work. Beware of gold class marking your trim. Make sure you have a jar of peanut butter available or treat the trim first.



good luck
 
Well, I called Meguiars to confirm, and sure enough the rep says that Gold Class is not a cleaner. I don't remember who posted it was, but they made a liar outta me!!



Anyway, for durability and because you have already purchased a separate polish, I would still suggest you use #26 High-Tech Yellow wax or Mediallion. If you decide to use the Gold Class, the deep crystal polish will not be necessary.



As far as the scratch-X, I would only use that for specific scratches in small areas. If you feel the entire vehicle will benifit from swirl remover, then use something like 3M's SMR or Meguiars swirl remover 2.0.



Volvo,



Yes, a true cleaner wax will remove polish. The polish doesn't bond to the paint, it must be sealed in with a wax. The polish's job is to make the paint bright and wet looking. It also will help to hide minor swirls. The wax applied over the polish then locks in the polish and provides protection. I am not aquainted with the Mothers Cal. Gold. If it is a cleaner wax, then you know the answer!
 
Despite what the Meguiar's guys tell you, GC has cleaners in it. So does #20 (the polymer sealant). The Meguiar's reps are not all equal. If you do a search, you'll see that people here have gotten all kinds of different answers to the same questions from different reps.



I don't know what you have in Montreal, but the #20 and #26 are from the Mirror Glaze line and can be gotten here in Vancouver at Lordco, and Auto Supply store. It can also be gotten at some of the speed shops where performance parts are sold.



The peanut butter is a trick that lots of people here have had success with for removing wax from trim. It seems the slight abrasive nature and the oils will remove the residue easily. Do a search for Peanut Butter and you'll see.
 
Mother's and Eagle One both make pure carnauba waxes which are readily available at Canadian Tire. I have not used the EO, but the Mother's wax is good, smells like bubble gum, but does not give quite as good a shine as #26 though. Durability is about average for a carnauba, which is a month or so for a car which sleeps in a garage at night.
 
I would return the GoldClass cleaner wax and get #26. Don't get the Deep Crystal#3 wax as it is not worth it even at half the price of the #26.



I would recommend you watch out for your lamps wool mitts. If you can get Viking's 100% cotton mitts it might be worth getting.



It might be safer to use the waterblade after you have clayed/polished the car and not after the first wash. Towel dry it the first time. It takes some skills to use the blade right I imagine.
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with lambswool mitts per se. A good search session will turn out lots of people here who happily use them. I think people like chenillle mitts because they can hold more dirt in their nap, but if you keep them clean and rinse them out frequently with the 2 bucket wash method it's probably okay. (Besides, they feel soooo soft and furry) :D



If you do towel dry, blot dry it, don't wipe. Most drying strategies (with the exception of the Water Blade) are centered around avoiding wiping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top