Mini Decal Stripes - Product Recommendation please
- Thread starter 1ShinyCar
- Start date
imported_gusbubba
New member
Be VERY careful what you use on these stripes. The color is not sealed in, i.e. there is no clear film over them and they sit on top of the paint/clearcoat, which I'm sure you already know. I can't tell you what works best on them, but I CAN tell you what doesn't work! I inadvertently got prep solvent on one last week and it took the color right off!
Rob Tomlin
Lotus Exige S
Anyone else have any recommendations on what to use on the taped stripes?
I will be detailing a mini cooper in the next couple of weeks. :nervous:
I will be detailing a mini cooper in the next couple of weeks. :nervous:
imported_gusbubba
New member
Rob, I was privy to observe one of the decal installers at the dealership and actually saw and talked to him about what he uses to clean the stripes. UNFORTUNATELY, I was distracted before I could write down the product and specific brand and completely forgot! (Does you a fat lot of good, I know)
However, after some research, Methylated Spirits (denatured alcohol) was recommended. Although this seems counter-intuitive because one of the uses for DA is to remove ink stains from non-porous surfaces, it does ring some bells in my empty head. I remember the product the stripe tech. used being in a can like spirits from the hardware store would come in and I also remember being surprised by what he was using.
To further confuse the issue, the color of the stripe plays a role. If it's White, it's more tolerant to cleaning. The Black stripe is basically black pigment layered on top of the existing White. The Black is very sensitive to bleeding and smearing.
Further adding to the problem is the origin of the stripe. The preceeding info. regards factory/dealership stripes. In fact, Mini recommends that you not try to polish or even wax the stripes because polish/wax will smear like mad.
There are many aftermarket producers for these stripes, though; so you'll have to check with the owner of the car to find out where they were installed. If it's aftermarket, all bets are off and you'll probably have to check with the specific manufacturer for details.
I know most of this info. is confusing and barely useful.....which is why we (the detailers at the dealership) avoided dealing with these stripes, preferring to avoid the liability and telling the customer there was little we could do (which was basically true).
The core of the issue is that these factory decals are COMPLETE GARBAGE that should be nowhere near these cars for what they cost.
One more bit of advice pertains to the roof. If it's Black, be aware that the paint is very soft and scratches/mars/smears very easily (even softer paint than the rest of the car). Be careful also of the plastic 'rain lip' that runs around the roof.....it loves to catch and shred pads.
I hope ANY of this rambling was helpful to you. Good luck.
However, after some research, Methylated Spirits (denatured alcohol) was recommended. Although this seems counter-intuitive because one of the uses for DA is to remove ink stains from non-porous surfaces, it does ring some bells in my empty head. I remember the product the stripe tech. used being in a can like spirits from the hardware store would come in and I also remember being surprised by what he was using.
To further confuse the issue, the color of the stripe plays a role. If it's White, it's more tolerant to cleaning. The Black stripe is basically black pigment layered on top of the existing White. The Black is very sensitive to bleeding and smearing.
Further adding to the problem is the origin of the stripe. The preceeding info. regards factory/dealership stripes. In fact, Mini recommends that you not try to polish or even wax the stripes because polish/wax will smear like mad.
There are many aftermarket producers for these stripes, though; so you'll have to check with the owner of the car to find out where they were installed. If it's aftermarket, all bets are off and you'll probably have to check with the specific manufacturer for details.
I know most of this info. is confusing and barely useful.....which is why we (the detailers at the dealership) avoided dealing with these stripes, preferring to avoid the liability and telling the customer there was little we could do (which was basically true).
The core of the issue is that these factory decals are COMPLETE GARBAGE that should be nowhere near these cars for what they cost.
One more bit of advice pertains to the roof. If it's Black, be aware that the paint is very soft and scratches/mars/smears very easily (even softer paint than the rest of the car). Be careful also of the plastic 'rain lip' that runs around the roof.....it loves to catch and shred pads.
I hope ANY of this rambling was helpful to you. Good luck.
When it comes to deterioration and failure of vinyl based materials, the biggest single cause is washing with harsh, usually highly caustic materials that literally dry out and destroy the graphic. Vinyl, like paint needs nourishment and UV protection to prevent fading and cracking.
To prevent your new investment from deteriorating before your eyes just follow this simple philosophy:
Just say “NO” to unacceptable products that will damage your graphics!
NO - Over the counter items purchased from the local auto parts store
NO - Car/truck shampoos, cleaners, polishes, waxes, etc…these products are formulated for car and truck Paint - NOT Vinyl Laminated Graphics!
NO - Dishwashing soaps, soaps will dry out the wrap and accelerate material failure
NO - Products containing PETROLEUM DISTILLATES
NO - Petrochemicals, abrasive or corrosive materials
NO - Degreasers
NO - Solvents
NO - Chemicals
NO - Alcohol
NO - Abrasives
NO - Brushes
NO - Scrubbing pads of any type - magic erasers, brillo pads, etc
NO - Cotton towels or shop rags
NO - Car dusters. They will only grind debris into the graphic
NO – Quick wipe, towel dust-offs that will grind debris into the graphic
Gasoline and diesel fuel spillage will damage the graphics and should be cleaned immediately with an appropriate, graphic safe cleaner
I cannot vouch for other products in the market place for care & maintenance of car/truck graphics as I only researched ONR & OCW which were approved by 3M Graphics Market Center.
To prevent your new investment from deteriorating before your eyes just follow this simple philosophy:
Just say “NO” to unacceptable products that will damage your graphics!
NO - Over the counter items purchased from the local auto parts store
NO - Car/truck shampoos, cleaners, polishes, waxes, etc…these products are formulated for car and truck Paint - NOT Vinyl Laminated Graphics!
NO - Dishwashing soaps, soaps will dry out the wrap and accelerate material failure
NO - Products containing PETROLEUM DISTILLATES
NO - Petrochemicals, abrasive or corrosive materials
NO - Degreasers
NO - Solvents
NO - Chemicals
NO - Alcohol
NO - Abrasives
NO - Brushes
NO - Scrubbing pads of any type - magic erasers, brillo pads, etc
NO - Cotton towels or shop rags
NO - Car dusters. They will only grind debris into the graphic
NO – Quick wipe, towel dust-offs that will grind debris into the graphic
Gasoline and diesel fuel spillage will damage the graphics and should be cleaned immediately with an appropriate, graphic safe cleaner
I cannot vouch for other products in the market place for care & maintenance of car/truck graphics as I only researched ONR & OCW which were approved by 3M Graphics Market Center.
imported_gusbubba
New member
PaintPolisher, I wouldn't argue with any of that.
However, the 3M aftermarket decal seems to be of higher quality and MAY be more tolerant to cleaning.
Trust me when I tell you that the stock Mini decals are JUNK!!!!
Absolutely everything you list above would apply.
I was barely comfortable washing these things.
One product mentioned in research was from Autoglym.....a vinyl cleaner.
Not familiar with it, but may be worth following up on.
However, the 3M aftermarket decal seems to be of higher quality and MAY be more tolerant to cleaning.
Trust me when I tell you that the stock Mini decals are JUNK!!!!
Absolutely everything you list above would apply.
I was barely comfortable washing these things.
One product mentioned in research was from Autoglym.....a vinyl cleaner.
Not familiar with it, but may be worth following up on.
Rob Tomlin
Lotus Exige S
Thanks gusbubba, I appreciate it.
The Mini I will be detailing is a convertible, so no roof to worry about.
I've already seen the stripes, and it is obvious what you say about them being of poor quality is true. They are already in fairly bad shape.
I think I will take the safe way out and pretty much just leave them as is. They are white stripes by the way.
How soft is the paint on this car? Will I be ok using a LC Orange pad?
The Mini I will be detailing is a convertible, so no roof to worry about.
I've already seen the stripes, and it is obvious what you say about them being of poor quality is true. They are already in fairly bad shape.
I think I will take the safe way out and pretty much just leave them as is. They are white stripes by the way.
How soft is the paint on this car? Will I be ok using a LC Orange pad?
imported_gusbubba
New member
Yes, LC Orange should be more than enough.
I've done correction on them with medium pad/polish combos.
I guess, as with anything else, it also depends on how severe the defects are.
Most of the ones I worked on were new, so my combo choice was pretty consistent as defects were minor and minimal.
I mainly work with a Festool Rotex in forced rotation, by the way.
If you're using a rotary and you've never done a Mini before, I'll give you fair warning about the hood: lots of tricky curves and nuances. Your buffing angles change quickly and almost without warning, making it difficult to keep the pad flat and avoid skipping. Pay attention and you should be alright.
I've done correction on them with medium pad/polish combos.
I guess, as with anything else, it also depends on how severe the defects are.
Most of the ones I worked on were new, so my combo choice was pretty consistent as defects were minor and minimal.
I mainly work with a Festool Rotex in forced rotation, by the way.
If you're using a rotary and you've never done a Mini before, I'll give you fair warning about the hood: lots of tricky curves and nuances. Your buffing angles change quickly and almost without warning, making it difficult to keep the pad flat and avoid skipping. Pay attention and you should be alright.
Rob Tomlin
Lotus Exige S
gusbubba said:
I was planning on using my new Flex 3401 for the first time on this car. I will also have my PC ready just in case. No plans to use my Makita on this one.
We just bought a convertible Mini weekend before last. The stripes definitely add character to the car, but they ought to just paint them.
Not even thinking about them, put some Zymol on the entire hood just to protect the hood until I detail the car. The Zymol didn't bother the stripes at all. However, when I do detail the car I won't pre-wax clean or polish the stripes, I'll just keep putting the Zymol (Carbon) on them.
Hate to hear that the stripes are so crappy. Wife wanted to take them off...maybe I should have listened to her before putting clear-bra on. Now can't take them off unless willing to redo clear bra.
Wonder what my local body shop would charge to paint them on - if they would even fool with it.
Not even thinking about them, put some Zymol on the entire hood just to protect the hood until I detail the car. The Zymol didn't bother the stripes at all. However, when I do detail the car I won't pre-wax clean or polish the stripes, I'll just keep putting the Zymol (Carbon) on them.
Hate to hear that the stripes are so crappy. Wife wanted to take them off...maybe I should have listened to her before putting clear-bra on. Now can't take them off unless willing to redo clear bra.
Wonder what my local body shop would charge to paint them on - if they would even fool with it.
imported_gusbubba
New member
I think they do the decals to appease the dealers.
They're relatively easy to apply and remove....it effectively doubles their inventory for a customer who isn't sure whether they want them or not. Otherwise, they'd have to be ordered at the factory and no one wants to wait for it.
Also, at trade in and resale, the second potential owner may not want the stripes, so the decals are easy to remove.
In the end, the dealer's not gonna pay for top quality graphics when they view them as disposable.
They're relatively easy to apply and remove....it effectively doubles their inventory for a customer who isn't sure whether they want them or not. Otherwise, they'd have to be ordered at the factory and no one wants to wait for it.
Also, at trade in and resale, the second potential owner may not want the stripes, so the decals are easy to remove.
In the end, the dealer's not gonna pay for top quality graphics when they view them as disposable.