Micro-Marring Removal - Sheepskin Bonnet?

O

old_gonzo

New member
Really want to get rid of some micro-marring on the hood. While it can only be seen in certain light, it drives me nuts. An air buffer with a sheepskin bonnet is probably going to be the tool of choice here, but what do you guys think about the product that it should be used with? The Finesse It II, 3M Finish Restorer? Marring was caused by a Fine Cut Compound and I am tired of messing with it by hand.



Any suggestions on product to use? Thanks.
 
Did the compound leave a haze?



Aren't wool bonnets VERY aggressive?



how about your 7424, a medium hardness pad, and some Finesse It II?
 
I have found a wool pad and a hi-speed buffer the best solution for deep swirls. It takes a lot of experience, though, and can do a lot of harm very quickly. With patience and practice, this combo can do miracles.;)
 
There are various types and styles of wool pads.



1. 4 ply twisted wool yarn pad

(old "cutting" pad, not recommended for cutting of modern clearcoats.



2. 4 ply twisted wool/synthetic yarn pad

(modern "clearcoat" cutting pad, recommended to be used with a modern clearcoat comppound for the removal of deep scratches, color or wet sanding marks. Must be followed up with polishing pad and polishing product.



3.Lambs wool polishing pad. Not a yarn,the wool is not a yarn, it is the actual pelt of the sheep and should be a "orangish" color with the leather a tan. These are "tannic" processed pads. Very soft and not as agressive as "yarn" pads. Should never be washed in hot water or soap, clean only with a pad tool,(spur) made to be used on a rotary buffer.



These are the premium, perferred polish pads for lacquers, enamel and modern clearcoats for removal of light marring, hazing. $aprox $18 to $20 per pad and usuable life is normally 12 to 15 vehicles.



4. Various foam pads, available with various specialized foam cell structure. Range from "cutting" to fine "polishing" and x-fine polishing.

The polishing foams should be used to polish following polishing with a lambs wool pad.



These are not "bonnets", bonnets are either attached to the backing plate by the use of a "draw string" or an elastic band sewn around the edge. Can not be used at high speed with out their attempting to fly off the backing plate.



Hope this give all a little more information for your archives.





:up
 
Thank you for these responses. Yes, the Fine cut left a haze that I am tired of messing with/looking at.



My husband will be doing the work and is very experienced, I am the one freaking out about it. He wants to use his air buffer. He originally thought that he would use a wool (looks like sheepskin) "bonnet". Second thoughts arose when he was told by another person that these types of "bonnets" are yesterday's news and foam was the only way to go. ???



I understand that the wool can burn through the paint easily, but he feels (felt) confident with the combination.



We did pick up the 3M Finesse It II Finishing Material (pretty pricey). It seems very fine in texture. The container states to use it by machine only. Is it possible to use by hand with favorable results? I know BradB. really likes this product, and maybe can shed some light my way. Curious.



What do you guys think of all this? :confused:
 
Artic, suggest one of you take the time to read the article on our website regarding heat and todays clearcoats as well as the two part article on MicroMarring (swirls).



DON'T use a wool yarn pad!! Or you will have marring that will be very difficult to ever remove. (plus, you may take off more than .3 mil of the clear and on a compostite hood and the heat that it absorbs, the evil white haze will be there shortly.)



Don't allow the buffer speed to be above 1750 rpm, lower around 1200 to 1400 rpm is much better.



The concern with a "bonnett" is that they come loose and start striking the clear, sort of like the yarn of a cutting pad does and then you have deeper marring due to the edges swinging out at the paint, the edges having the backing of the clothe under them.



The foam generates high heat, as the photos of the buffer with various pads and a temperature gauge shows.



Which is why the correct process is the lambs wool first for the agressive work and then the foam for the final clean up of any fiber strikes from the lambs wool.







:eek:
 
3M Finesse It is completely safe and easy to use by hand as well. I have done so for years. The instructions state using by machine because that is the best way to get a consistant finish on a whole car or large panel.
 
Do you feel that the 3M Finesse It II Finishing Material would be effective in the removal of micro-marring from 3M Fine Cut Compound? Or will hand application of this product make the problem worse? :confused: Foam applicator?
 
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