Dcox9
New member
I recently just got the Meguiars DA MF pad kit, and was wondering how many pads you need in your arsenal to do a car?
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I find that MF is far more forgiving than foam. I use 2 cutting and 2 polisher per car.
You'll need a few because half of them will probably fail before you get finished lol. They are notorious for the velcro backing coming off due to the heat generated.
Totally agree, although the new adhesive is better, watch out. They come in a two pack, get two packs of each. Better safe than sorry. On a Griot's, don't go above "4".
While we agree that using 2 cutting pads is a good idea, it's rare that you need more than 1 for the finishing step since that step should be done with light pressure and fairly high arm speed. Still, no harm in being cautious!I find that MF is far more forgiving than foam. I use 2 cutting and 2 polisher per car.
Yes, we've had some issues with failures on these pads and have made some changes. But heat is a very bad thing and usually comes about from being overly aggressive with the pads. High speeds and very high pressure will get things really hot between the pad and backing plate, especially if you're using a backing plate other than the recommended Meguiar's W67DA. This is due to the additional heat generated by a mismatched hook & loop - that hook & loop being thrown around on a DA is a nasty, brutal environment.You'll need a few because half of them will probably fail before you get finished lol. They are notorious for the velcro backing coming off due to the heat generated.
We have always stated that this system was tuned to 4800 opm on a DA and that this speed should not be exceeded. If you need additional cut, either increase the pressure, slow down the arm speed, shrink the size of the work, or some combo of the three, but do NOT increase the tool speed. The GG6" and Meguiar's G110v2 are definitely more powerful than the PC7424XP so that tool you might run at speed 5, but definitely not on the others.Yeah ive realized quickly that going above 4 is risky with the pad. Had some great results!
This is all excellent advice and should be followed by anyone using the DAMF System. Very regular cleaning of the pads is critical, and that means after every section you buff. Not every panel, not every three or four sections or just because the fibers are matting down. After every section you buff the pads must be blown out with compressed air or brushed with a brush. This isn't just to fluff the fibers up again but to remove both product and paint residue from the fibers. Microfiber is great at hanging on to stuff, and if this product and paint residue is allowed to build up you will not only comprise your cutting ability but also run the risk of developing a relatively large deposit that could create pigtails in the paint.As has been mentioned, heat is your enemy. (Although it destroys foam pads as well, and will collapse them the first time you use them if you heat them up to much.)
Thing is... I've found you can do a LOT MORE WORK with a MF pad than a foam pad. Get two packs of each and keep track of the heat. If you pull the pad after it gets warm and swap out regularly you'll never have a problem.
That is of course after you are making sure to clean them with air after each section pass. Don't think you'll completely do a panel without cleaning it either! Do the section pass and look at your pad. It'll be flat and looking like its going to kill the paint. Fluff it good, put a few drops of compound on it and go back to work.
Even though you are cleaning it more often than foam, it rewards you by being able to literally do an entire vehicle with only two pads. (providing there is enough time for the other one to cool between duty cycles) With the weather getting warmer, (it was 94° here today) the pads are getting hotter. For safety sake I'm swapping ALL pads out more often.
You'll need a few because half of them will probably fail before you get finished lol. They are notorious for the velcro backing coming off due to the heat generated.
The 3401 just plain runs hot after extended use, but this is very different from the heat created by the friction in the hook & loop attachment. The downside to using microfiber on the 3401 is that the forced rotation movement of this tool coupled with the microfiber pad tends to create more haze than an orbital DA (G110v2, GG6, 7424, etc) does. The closer you get to a true circular rotation of the pad the greater the chance of haze, which is why we highly recommend that you NOT use these with a rotary. Bad idea.since my flex generates sooooo much heat, are they worse when used on flex 3401 ?
The 3401 just plain runs hot after extended use, but this is very different from the heat created by the friction in the hook & loop attachment. The downside to using microfiber on the 3401 is that the forced rotation movement of this tool coupled with the microfiber pad tends to create more haze than an orbital DA (G110v2, GG6, 7424, etc) does. The closer you get to a true circular rotation of the pad the greater the chance of haze, which is why we highly recommend that you NOT use these with a rotary. Bad idea.
Now, even with the long stroke of the Rupes 21 you can get a killer finish out of the microfiber pads even while cutting like crazy.