Menzerna IP & Halogram HELP! (pic)

I

Intercooled

New member
I'm finally trying to get rid of my body shop swirls. I tried IP with a PC and a white pad with not much improvement. I'm currently on IP with an LC orange pad. My paint is Clear coat black. (3 years old, garage queen)

If you look close at the pic you can see a line down the center of the door. To the right is the result of IP w/Orange pad on about 5 1/2 speed. On the left is untouched swirling and halograming. The orange pad is taking out the marks but I can see kind od where I've been with PC, Is this OK? I assume the FP will clear it all uo.

Is the the hazing from the IP normal?

Am I on the right track or should I go to a yellow pad?

( its not the greatest pic I hope you all can see what I'm talking about)

Thanks

Mike



Holograms.jpg
 
Wow...it looks like you aren't working the polish long enough. I get VERY little hazing with IP and an orange pad.



A yellow pad will only create more micro-marring.
 
The pic (right side) shows a possibility of a few things..



1. Too much product used.

2. Not working the product in enough (moving too fast)

3. Maybe not enough priming of pad or product being used.



More then likely you are probably using too much product and not working the polish in long enough.



I used Ip with a Orange LC pad and got VERY VERY little hazing. FPII will clear up any hazing left from IP.
 
Hazing with IP is normal on black cars but most other colors get very little hazing, and FPII should clear it all up and set that mirror shine. I use rotary with menzerna and have heard that best results come with that machine.
 
Well I'm using little product. I think I might be moveing to fast. I'l try and move slower and see if it improves. I squirt a tiny bit of Z6 on the pad every so often also.
 
I like finsihing pad with FPII. Try it first on one panel then decide, if the finishing pad isn't correcting your hologramming I'm pretty sure the white will. But since I always use rotary with this product I'm not 100% sure. Do you know anybody with a rotary you can borrow?
 
I just got back from the garage. I moved the PC much slower, still have hazing but my lines are gone and I'm removing more swirls and marks.I also lowered the speed to 4.5 I think I'm on the right track now. Thanks guys!!

I just have to be more patient.

I fooled around with a section of FPII and it did remove the hazeing.
 
Glad you got good advice and corrected. I have been there myself in almost the same situation. Those first few minutes when you think you just did damage to that which you have been protecting like a madman can be very stressfull.



I wonder how many people would try to detail before Autotopia and have a bad experience and without the chance to get great advice just give up or do further damage.
 
FalconGuy said:
Glad you got good advice and corrected. I have been there myself in almost the same situation. Those first few minutes when you think you just did damage to that which you have been protecting like a madman can be very stressfull.



I wonder how many people would try to detail before Autotopia and have a bad experience and without the chance to get great advice just give up or do further damage.
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Tell me about it! I wasn't 100% sure that I was following the right path. I grabbed my camera took a quick shot and made a quick post and got the answers I was looking for within minutes!

This place and the people here are so valueable!:bow
 
I actually increase the PC speed with IP...generally 5-6 and work the area slowly. Don't know if that will help you or not.
 
If your using a light polishing pad with FPII, you don't need to use pressure.



For than unbeatable FPII finish just let the weight of the machine do the work. Use less FPII compared to IP, and move a little faster at speed 6. Remember, it isn't doing the cutting work of IP and it contains very light abrasives that need very little beaking down. Following these steps will help FPII to 'burnish' the finish.



I'm saying this because you have black paint and it will really show up a deep gloss if you reach FPII's true potential.



I found Megs yellow polishing pad to be perfect for FPII - right balance between light-cutting and non-marring gentleness. The next best is Sonus DAS green. LC white will work too, but in my experience, has a bit more cut/aggressiveness than the other two and creates a tad less gloss, especially the DA white. BTW, I use all of the above pads.



I hope this is of some help.
 
When you use the IP, for the first couple of passes over an area, you want to press fairly hard on the polisher - trying to compress the pad to at minimum, 1/2 its "at rest" thickness. This is for the "cut". As you proceed, lighten up on the pressure, until on the final couple of passes, as said, pretty much just let the polisher "drift" across the paint using its own weight. DON'T move the pad quickly - you want to leave the pad and polish in contact with the paint in the same spot long enough to actually "cut" the blemishes out of the paint. Move it 3-4 inches per second, which seems to work for me.



As for product quantity, I just drizzle a product line, 1/4 to 1/8 inch wide, on the pad (LC variable contact) just inside the ridge that defines the center "cup". You can use too much product, and it will clog the pad and make a gummy mess on the paint that is difficult to remove.
 
Burlyq said:
Hazing with IP is normal on black cars but most other colors get very little hazing, and FPII should clear it all up and set that mirror shine. I use rotary with menzerna and have heard that best results come with that machine.
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Ditto.



Menzerna, though they state it works with PC, is definitely a rotary product for best result, at least from my experiences. I do not even bother with Menzerna products via a PC. Too much time and lesser results no matter how long you work the product or vary pads. The same holds true for me with FP and PO85RD.

JMHO on black vehicles.
 
No after shot Intercooled ? :(



Gonzo, are you saying 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch thick of IP all the way round the circumference of the pad ?
 
This process is going to take quite a few days. I'm in no hurry, working a couple panels a day. I'm going to continue with IP, its working, but working slowly. I'll then go to FP.

Do you guys think I should use AIO after FP? Is that necessary?

I'm going to finish with EX topped with soveran.

I'll surly post pics when finished.:)
 
I'm going to have to disagree with blkZ28Conv about Menzerna and a PC...I'm sure Menzerna breaksdown faster with a rotary, but I get the best finish with both IP and FP on black with a PC then any other finishing polish I've used.



My sig shows how I work both IP and FP





Good Luck!
 
blkyukon said:
I'm going to have to disagree with blkZ28Conv about Menzerna and a PC...I'm sure Menzerna breaksdown faster with a rotary, but I get the best finish with both IP and FP on black with a PC then any other finishing polish I've used.



My sig shows how I work both IP and FP





Good Luck!
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I completely agree. I have gotten outstanding results with Menzerna and a PC. Even though most say it's best suited for rotary, it's no slouch by PC. Now if I could just muster up the courage to take on the rotary, I could compare :)
 
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