menzerna ip/fp pictures

NavindraLR

NavindraLR

Pre Med Student
these pictures were taken 2/3 weeks ago, but ive been really busy with school and other things... but here they are... basically these were just comparison pictures to see how good menzerna is... on both vehicles, the fenders were washed, clayed, washed, the ip, then fp, and that was it, no wax (would skew results somewhat) tell me what you think



first car: 97 grand voyager with deep/bad scratches

before pictures

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after pics:

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second car: 2002 altima 3.5se with severe water spots... (these things were deep!!!)



before... look @ how dull it looks...!

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after... somewhat improved

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you can see the line down the middle if u look closely & compare to other side

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they were both done with a makita 9227

ip was done with a cutting pad (sonus) with 3 passes

fp was done with a polishing pad (sonus) with 1 pass
 
Great job, those polishes really work well with the rotary.

How did the sonus pads work with the rotary, i was interested in buying a couple.
 
I might have to borrow your Sonus pads :D



I love my LC's, but am willing to give them a try.



Don't ya love Menzerna? Work it correctly and expect amazing results.



Does that Altima belong to that kid Jason? Why doesn't he take care of it?



How is the rotary learning going?
 
X-Trail: thanks



GSRstilez: do you use the new lc pads? the variable pressure or whatever they are... and are they the ones with the concave center or no? i love the menzerna ip, but the menzerna fp is weird... do u have hazing problems with it? im using the fp2 by the way. seems hard to buff off afterwards... :nixweiss

yes the altima belongs to jason... i have no idea why he doesnt take care of it.. that thing was a complete mess... by far the worst car ive done so far... the rotary learning is going so so.... awful experience w/ it today... :angry still pissed about it.



PakShak: lol.. i used the one u sent me... works great



edschwab1:thanks... did u experience any hazing with the fp2?
 
I have the variable contact ones. I feel it keeps the slinging to a minimum and I don't have a problem with marring or amount of contact area.



Yeh, I have burned a couple small spots in my day (2 on my car). Make sure you keep the buffer moving with enough product (use more rather than less) and don't use much pressure/speed til you get used to it.



FP has gummed up a bit for me. Still finding where I like it. I wash my pad about half way through a vehicle when using FP. Try using a good QD to remove any residue you have left on the surface.
 
i used it on my dads car... with ip, which left buffer marring in the paint (which i expected), then i went over it with 1zpp and they were still there??? :nixweiss they werent as bad but still there... what gives... i really dont want to use the fp... what do u think?
 
Hey NavindraLR,



Welcome to the Rotary learner's club:D



It takes some time to learn to use properly, but be patient, and you'll get the hang of things soon. I think the inportant thing is to keep the speeds down a bit until you start to feel more comfortable, and then you can start to ramp things up. And just to be on the safe side, tape up the angles so you don't burn through.



I had problems with FPII as well. But as i worked with it more, I began to really appreciate what it can do for a car's finish. What works for me is to use just enough to prime the pad, and then work it until you can barely see residue, or it starts to dust slgihtly (yes it will dust if worked hard enough). Also, it is a good idea to use it with a foam polish pad until yu get more comfortable using the rotary. Using a foam finish pad does improve FPII's value dramatically, but it's a double edged sword. Even though a finish pad is not suppossed to have any cutting ability, it can actually generate a bit more heat than you may be ready to deal with, and hurt the paint finish.



How to deal with the sticky residue? Good question. In many cases, i find that i can just wp off the residue with a clean plush mf towels. But every once in a while, I get paint that seems to want to hang on to the residue.



After a pass, I clean down the area with a alcohol/ water mix or some Final Inspection. Just a light dusting will do for the moment. Then I lightly wipe down the panel. To see if it's all gone, I pass a cloth lightly against the windflow. If I can see smearing in the direction I wiped, I just apply some more solvent or mixture until I can't see the smearing anymore. When these methods fail, i go right to either a prepsol or just wash the panel down with a carshampoo that does not leave anything behind, or dishwashing liquid as the final option.



If you are still seeing buffing marks, then you might want to try using the FPII with a d/a machine. Use enough to prime the pad, and work in small sections at a time. Work slowly, and move the machine in several directions. Keep working it until you can barely see it, or is dusts. Same clean off steps also can apply to this.
 
Navindra: You could follow up with a PC or...



lower the rpm, switch to a finishing pad, and/or lighten the pressure you apply.
 
how do you deal with all the powder from the IP? i have used it a couple times and i find that it leaves alot of powder after i use it.
 
usdm: thanks for the info... hopefully it will help... im gonna give my dads car another try... it pissed me off so much yesterday i just had to quit



GSRstilez: ill try this also... thanks



turborave: to tell you the truth it didnt leave any powder when i used it... maybe u had caked up product on the pad from previous uses?



anyone else have tips or hints for using the rotary? any help would be appreciated...
 
Menzerna are more of a "feel" polishes than any other i have worked with. The longer you work with them the better idea you will get on how much to use and how long to work them in, but they do work fairly quick. If you find they are gumming up try a couple of things, either spray your pad with water or try to apply a small amount of product more. I don't let them dust but instead work until still slightly wet.

In the Meguiars video they say the key to rotary buffing with diminishing abrasives is to buff to the point where the abrasives have broken down, no more no less. Much easier said than done, but the more experience you get with the rotary you'll see that point for the different products.
 
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