Menzerna 106 nano polish

B

baseballlover1

New member
Well i just got my 8 oz bottle of the polish in the mail and im planning on using it on my uncles Honda element this weekend. are there any tips or anything i should know about before i use it? I have heard so many good things about this polish. Is it a heavier cut then IP? Should i use it as a final polish?
 
baseballlover1 said:
Well i just got my 8 oz bottle of the polish in the mail and im planning on using it on my uncles Honda element this weekend. are there any tips or anything i should know about before i use it? I have heard so many good things about this polish. Is it a heavier cut then IP? Should i use it as a final polish?
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I heard about filling properties of 106ff. But I don't encounter this on ANY of the paint i've used it on.



A little goes A LONG way. I use about a QUARTER to prime a 6.5" pad and then a DIME size afterwards. I have used it on a WHITE LC pad to finish polish and then I've used an ORANGE LC pad to up the cut a little. Not much that I can think off other than HAVE FUN!:woot:



By the looks of this chart. Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna compound,



IP has more cut than 106ff.



- Andrew
 
106ff is definately a FINISH polish. It likes slow speed (rotory) and some pressure applied to increase heat a bit. Once you do that you will see it break down completely clear and no longer look gray, gritty or cloudy. Work in small sections till you get the hang of it. Since it's a finish polish you won't have to follow up with anything else other than an LSP. However, I hope you don't plan on doing any major correction with it because it doesn't have enough bite for serious correction. At least not on any of the vehicles I've used it on.
 
On a rotary, it's my method to start at 600 with some pressure, then up to 900 and no pressure with really slow movements, followed by 1250 and up to 1500



Keep an eye on the residue when your working it. It will tell you when its ready to be worked at 800 to 900 rpm as it won't keep spreading really easy. As soon as you slow it down, the easy machine control will return

If you work it at 1500 for a little too long, it will stop spreading easy and gum up.

Backing the rpm down will see it continue to be so easy to work with.

Finish up with a quick pass at 600 to 750 rpm if you like.



Once done, the residue/oils will come off with a couple wipes with an MF with a little QD on it.



If it gums on you, water on the surface will get it back going again.



The car I did last week was so easy.

Most sections were not clearcoated (1998 Red EL XR8 Falcon) and it was like hot butter was my lubricant.
 
I always work under direct halogen lighting, and I work it til I get the "wow, I hope the paint looks that wet and glossy once I remove the 106ff residue" look. Once you use it, you'll know what I mean. The polish goes very clear and wet looking. Almost looks like a thin layer of oil on your car. Once it gets to that look, you're done. And if the car keeps looking just as good with the residue removed as it did with the clear and well-worked residue on it, you've reached the maximum gloss you can get with 106. Sometimes it might take more than one application.
 
Like Superbee said, it turns very clear and liquidy. Once you get it to this stage there is NO DUSTING. I don't think you generated enough heat to fully melt the polish. I use the word melt because it's easier to understand than "breaking it down". When done properly, there is no dust.
 
SuperBee364 said:
It works very well with a random orbit buffer, Rob. You'll love the results. Just work it very well.
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Awesome.



I will be purchasing the SIP and 106ff from Autogeek today. :)
 
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