Meguiar's #16

I

imported_Aurora40

New member
I tried #16 Professional Paste Wax (to help the search) out about a week ago on my wife's car. I've only used it twice, so these are just initial impressions of it. I'm also hoping some of you will post your experience as I know others here use it, but I didn't see a review (I searched back through about 25 pages of the Detailing Product Discussion as you can't search on "#16" and apparently no one called it "Professional Paste Wax").



It went on very very easily, and I was really amazed by how far this product would go. Once the applicator was primed a bit, I could easily do half the side of the car with just one swipe over the container. It really goes far. Much more so than Souveran or #26, the other two pastes I have experience with. It was very easy to apply, and buffed off with complete ease. I had heard some comments on Autopia that it could be hard to buff, but I don't see how it could have been any easier. It was simple to buff.



It also doesn't stain trim. I was lazy (and applying by hand) so I didn't mask off the plastic door handles on the car. I got a bit on there by mistake, and it came off just fine. No staining.



It seems to be a very shiny product, not the softer look that #26 has. However, I haven't really gotten much chance to see it, and also the car just got MPPP'd two weeks ago.



All in all it's a very satisfying product and I'm pleased with the purchase. I suspect it will be quite durable, though I'll have to wait and see.



The garage smells like crayons now, which isn't objectionable, but nor is it as desirable as the smell my garage takes on after using #26 or Souveran (though BF or Crystal Mist QD's are the absolute best from a garage-smell perspective). But I suppose it's better than the smell it takes on after Blackfire (a mild, odd sort of smell, chemically smelling but not solventy smelling).



I am seriously entertaining thoughts of using this as my winter topper on the 'Roara instead of Souveran. We'll see. Maybe it's just me, but there is something so much more satisfying in applying a paste wax to the car than a liquid wax or sealant...



There is more information on my review at: http://www.showcargarage.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=334



Feel free to reply in this thread, though, even if it is about things from the showcargarage thread. All in all I'm quite pleased with this product. It really looks great!
 
It also looks great over #20. i just did a touch test on the accord that I did 3 months ago, and it is still slick as can be with the combo(indoors most of the time, and not washed much, but still good).
 
I think #16 is a very underrated wax which not enough people use. Good to see someone tried it and liked it!! I really like it as well and it is more durable than #26.
 
when you search for #16, did you try putting an asterisk behind it to make it meet the length requirement of the search, like this #16*



This might not help now, but will make finding stuff about meguiars stuff a whole lot easier next time
 
Just in case there's anyone left who doesn't know, *I* REALLY LIKE #16. I frequently apply it to friends' cars (and recommend that they use it)- they always like how it looks. And it's a safe wax to recommend, what with its trim-friendly nature.



It looks a LOT like P21S but lasts a LOT longer. It's a "shiny" wax, but also a sorta "heavy" one, that can hide some marring.



A little goes a LONG way, a can would last the average Autopian for years (NOT an exaggeration- *YEARS*). For $13 or so, Meg's #16 is certainly worth a try.
 
Accumulator said:
A little goes a LONG way, a can would last the average Autopian for years (NOT an exaggeration- *YEARS*).
Click to expand...



Great. Now I have about 300 years worth of products instead of 280 (yeah, I stopped at Mickey's and bought some #16. Brett K, gimme a call, I'll cut off a couple slices for ya to try; I got YEARS worth of it :D :D :D :D :D ).





Tom
 
Just a note, I have used #16 as a topper over #20 for years, like in at least 10 years. After thoroughly prepping the surface, #16 will dramatically increase gloss. That's because it's what is called a heavy wax.



This is a very old formula, (I'm sure it's been updated at some time, but it is actually Meguiar's very first Automotive Paste Wax, which came out sometime in the early 1950's.



A heavy wax is a wax that has a high molecular weight. It does fill in and hide fine scratches. I usually apply two thin coats and allow each coat to dry for about an hour.



This makes the wax incredibly hard and somewhat difficult to remove, so be careful. But by allowing it to fully dry and harden up... when you remove it... you leave the most wax behind.



It's only fall back is it doesn't turn the surface as dark as a wax like #26, or Gold Class, or the new NXT which I demonstrated recently here at a Mercedes-Benz clinic on a black Mercedes-Benz that the owner had been using P21S on.



If you like P21S, you would like this wax. Funny thing is, if you do comparison Smell Tests, they both smell pretty close to one another. (And no... Meguiar's doesn't make P21S).



Also, the #16 comes in a really cool looking blue can that is excellent for holding nuts and bolts, or other knick knack items car guys generate.



Also, the can is very wide and shallow, this makes it easy to liquefy the wax before applying it. A technique old timers used and knew about and is also used in the Mold Release industry.



FWIW



Mike



p.s.



Here's some more information about this product I posted here,



http://www.showcargarage.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=297
 
Mike Phillips said:
A heavy wax is a wax that has a high molecular weight. It does fill in and hide fine scratches. I usually apply two thin coats and allow each coat to dry for about an hour.



This makes the wax incredibly hard and somewhat difficult to remove, so be careful. But by allowing it to fully dry and harden up... when you remove it... you leave the most wax behind.
Click to expand...

So, you apply it and wait an hour to buff it off? That's what it sounds like you are saying, vs. waiting an hour between each application... What do you use to buff it? Any special technique or product required after it has set for that long? I'll have to give that a try.



Mike Phillips said:
Also, the can is very wide and shallow, this makes it easy to liquefy the wax before applying it. A technique old timers used and knew about and is also used in the Mold Release industry.
Click to expand...

Um, what? More info please!! :D
 
I did an experiment, with one half of the car #16 and the other half #26. Here is my impression of #16....



This is like a good-looking Collinite, IMO. It has the same feel when working it, and it has the same glassiness to its appearance, but it is wetter-looking. I found Collinite to be very unattractive, very cold, all shine and reflection; #16 has nice warmth, and depth, but the same shine. Like Aurora40 says, it seems you just can't get water to affect #16; after today's road trip, I washed down the car and water didn't even bead; it ran right off! In other words, I hosed the car off and.. it... was... DRY! The #26 side was also very slick, but at least the water held to the paint in beads. Still 'n all, even though I like #16, I like the look of #26 better. But, #26 is the right look for my car. A different car might look better with #16. It's really bold and friendly and brassy looking, really BIG looking!





Tom
 
Like Aurora, I’d also like to know more about how to remove #16 after letting it sit so long. I applied, let sit for 10 minutes and it was a nightmare getting this stuff to buff off. I can’t imagine letting it sit for an hour. Any ideas on how to remove this stuff easier? I tried some QD, but that didn’t seem to help. I hesitated to use a whole lot of pressure with the buffing towel, but that seemed like the only way to remove it. Maybe I applied too heavy of a coat? I don’t know. Thanks.
 
Are you asking about future applications or is there still wax residue stuck to your sled? More specifically, are you asking how to more easily apply #16 or are you asking how to remove old #16 off of your paint? If it is the former:



Did you try the "spin" method? If you see the surface of the wax in the can getting moist, that's when you apply it. I only say this to encourage you to give it another shot! 10 minutes may be too long. I work per panel; when the spin method is applied, it goes on and wipes off in a similar fashion to P21S/S100. It is a heavier wax, so leaving it on longer will result in Popeye muscles. Someone announced that they were leaving it on overnight on a yellow Cavalier, but I don't remember if they checked back in or how it went...



*edit* I think Mike P was referring to a cure time in between coats, not leaving the residue on the vehicle for an hour. Am I right?

04Runner said:
Like Aurora, I’d also like to know more about how to remove #16 after letting it sit so long. I applied, let sit for 10 minutes and it was a nightmare getting this stuff to buff off. I can’t imagine letting it sit for an hour. Any ideas on how to remove this stuff easier? I tried some QD, but that didn’t seem to help. I hesitated to use a whole lot of pressure with the buffing towel, but that seemed like the only way to remove it. Maybe I applied too heavy of a coat? I don’t know. Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Future applications. I got it all removed eventually. I will try again and not let it sit so long or maybe try to apply a thinner coat. I will be giving it another try in a few weeks probably. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Wow, Mike. That 1 thread you replied to has changed the way I look at detailing.

I have and use #7 over my base Z, under my carnauba topper (#16 this season).

Maybe I'll try just #7 for a weekend and see how it goes, now that I'll have a garage to work in.

:bounce
 
I apply and remove #16 like S100. A panel at a time, remove. Works great and I really like the look over both #20 and NXT. The #20/16 combo really looks good on boats:



109921_foot_skiboat.jpg
 
Mike Phillips said:
Also, the #16 comes in a really cool looking blue can
Click to expand...



Yeah, what's up with the blue can? Being in the professional series "Mirror Glaze" why didn't it every make the transformation to the tan color?
 
04Runner said:
Like Aurora, I’d also like to know more about how to remove #16 after letting it sit so long. I applied, let sit for 10 minutes and it was a nightmare getting this stuff to buff off. I can’t imagine letting it sit for an hour. Any ideas on how to remove this stuff easier? I tried some QD, but that didn’t seem to help. I hesitated to use a whole lot of pressure with the buffing towel, but that seemed like the only way to remove it. Maybe I applied too heavy of a coat? I don’t know. Thanks.
Click to expand...



Like Scottwax, I've found it is a breeze to remove if applied and removed a panel at a time. That said, I've also done the whole car, waited about 30 minutes, and come back to buff and it still came off easily. But if you are finding it difficult, I'd probably do a panel at a time, and also possibly try to use less product.
 
04runner- Yeah, it sounds like a case of too much product to me too. I use both methods (w-o-w-o/let dry) and it's never too hard to buff off. FWIW, I like removing it with the PC/Cyclo using MF bonnets.



If you let it set up so long that it's REALLY hard to remove, try a *VERY* soft terry towel instead of a MF. The cotton loops help break it up. Fogging the surface with your breath can help, too.



But someone recently put on THIN coats (Zaino-thin), let it set up *overnight*, and reported that it buffed right off, quite easily. So I'd try applying it thinner.



BTW, the "spin method" of liquefying the #16 works VERY well. To do this, move the applicator around in the can while picking up some wax. Move it fast enough that the wax liquefies. It'll happen pretty easily. Then squeeze out the excess wax by pressing your applicator against the rim of the can as you draw it out. And applying it with a random orbital makes this work even better. If you get it on a bit thick, you can work it more with the PC and spread it around over a larger area.
 
Mike Phillips said:
Also, the can is very wide and shallow, this makes it easy to liquefy the wax before applying it. A technique old timers used and knew about and is also used in the Mold Release industry.



FWIW



Mike
Click to expand...






I realize this is a pretty old thread but does anyone know what Mike was talking about here?
 
"BTW, the "spin method" of liquefying the #16 works VERY well. To do this, move the applicator around in the can while picking up some wax. Move it fast enough that the wax liquefies. It'll happen pretty easily. Then squeeze out the excess wax by pressing your applicator against the rim of the can as you draw it out. And applying it with a random orbital makes this work even better. If you get it on a bit thick, you can work it more with the PC and spread it around over a larger area."



Accumulator described it perfectly. The can is wide so it's easy to move your applicator around in it which in turn makes it much easier to apply.
 
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