Meg's pad turns reddish after buffing + QD ?

C

chip douglas

New member
Hey all,



Prior to buffing I primed my pad with Meg's QD (consumer's line, not #34), then proceeded to buff out a section, but then noticed the pad had that reddish/rosy color to it......has this happen to any of you ? I was and still am a bit nervous about it, as the paint on my girlfriend's car is red, and a single stage paint. However, prior to using that very QD I didn't noticed it--it coincided with using Meg's consumer's line QD.



Best .....
 
I wouldn't be too worried about it, single stage paint is always going to transfer a little when you buff it out. If it starts to get a lot of build-up you may want to ease up a little though.
 
Humm, what I find weird is that at first, I didn't use Meg's QD (consumer's line), and I didn't get pads that rosy color...maybe I buffed to much.
 
From my experience with my 85 toyota, the paint was badly oxidized when i got it, and my pads did turn quite red. In fact just washing it would turn my towel red. I used a rotary with the meg's polishing pad @1300rpm with SFP. You may just want to avoid priming with the QD and just apply the polish to the pad. You are basically removing the oxidized paint, that is what is turning your pads red.
 
Chip I did a 88 Volvo single stage a couple weeks back and used a PC with a white pad and AIO and had to use 3 different pads cuz of the removed oxidization.. and the piant was in exceptioan condition.. DACP would do more.
 
Hey guys,

I was wondering since my car is black and it is seriously oxidized, I lose alot a paint simply using a meg step 2 polish (not really abrasive). I am not even sure if this is all paint or just dirt because I havent done anything to it for so long. Oh, yes the car is SS so some is definitely paint.



Anyways, I was wondering if I should use a cleaner and maybe a terry to remove the oxidized paint so I dont ruin my new pads. I cant create worse marring than I have now. What do you guys think.



Sorry Chip, not trying to steal the thread.
 
You can simply clay it to remove a little of the oxidation, that will help make the job easier for your pads.
 
The reddish color on the pad was ever so easy to clean under hot water......that is why I think it may be a heat reaction with QD(meg's quick detailer--red bottle) and the pad/paint. I figured had it been paint that was on the pad, it'd have stained, but I may be mistaken here.
 
They were pretty red after i did my truck the first time, but they were some old pads anyway, so i tossed them after i finished. If you clay, (which i didn't) it will seriously make the job a lot easier on the pads. I got my truck 3 years ago and the original owner can't believe it is the same truck, haha.
 
Thanks, I was planing on claying first anyways. After I clay Ill pick a couple of test spots and its still really black Ill have to hand buff it a bit first.



Thanks for your help guys
 
ACURA95, you might want to have some stronger polish on hand other than just a pre-wax cleaner if your paint really is heavily oxidized. You don't want to have to sit there all afternoon trying to cut through the oxidation with such a mild product when a stronger one may be called for.
 
ACURA95 said:
4dsc,

I have a gallon of dacp, that should be abrasive enough shouldnt it?
Click to expand...
Yes, hopefully you won't need anything stronger than this. DACP can be pretty effective, but it's not dangerously strong. Just take it easy and see how things progress. Even if you have to use a product twice to get it right, that's perfectly acceptable too (some even prefer this approach).
 
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