Meg#80 and 3M III MG 05937

I've had decent results removing swirls with the MG on both a polishing pad and a light-cut pad.

I'm also interested in the responses of others on how #80 compares to it.
 
i think the machine glaze works better, ive never tried to use 80 to remove swirls i dont think it has the bite but ya never know.
 
6']['9 said:
i think the machine glaze works better, ive never tried to use 80 to remove swirls i dont think it has the bite but ya never know.



Have you ever used the MG with a cutting pad? Or do you always go with the RC when a cutting pad is needed?
 
ive used the MG with a polishing pad. If i go with RC then ill use a polishing pad.



You know what i did use 80 to use remove swirls on that black camaro i wetsanded DOH!:wall
 
This post may not amount to much since I have only used #80 (and its more abrasive brother #83) and not MG. Using #80 and a PC w/ a white polishing pad, I have had fairly decent results removing *light* swirls. Anything deeper required me to bring in the big guns (#83). Please also note that "removing" is a very subjective term...in my experience, #80 would physically remove about 90% of a *light* swirl and actually cover up (fill-in) the remaining 10%. I discovered this after washing my car and seeing faint swirl remnants on my problem areas (damn black cars...oh well.) Anyways, I hope this helps.



MCA
 
Usiny my rotary with a polishing pad and a speed about 1000 to 1500 tops I was able to get out swirls on horizontal portions of a beater car using PI III MG. I think this product gives the best results by rotary. Most recently I've been using followed it by FPII for good measure via PC or Cyclo too.
 
Guys..thanks for replies.

I am very new to this. My lack of experience with the rotary has forced me to use PC. But #80 is not available in my country, 3M III MG does. So I will try to remove holograms using PC with 3M. U think it's better? I will certainly follow it with P21 Cleaner or #81 to ensure max gloss.
 
Just a FYI,



The Perfect It III line is going away and is replaced with Perfect It 3000. Someone here said the replacement for PI III MG is PI 3000 Swirl Remover. How similar it is to PI III MG, I don't think has been determined :nixweiss



You will probably have to spend a bit of time using it by PC. Don't use too much at once or it may cake up in areas, if it does, use the isopropyl:water mix to get it off. You probably won't need anything following it if you get the best results: swirls and marring removed entirely. The gloss is quite nice by itself. I'd follow with those other products if you're going to top with a carnauba wax only ( no sealant first)
 
I don't know if it filled or removed the swirls, but here is a pic of #80 x2 w/polishing pad and PC on 6. I have never used any 3M products, but I just thought I would throw in these pics!:D



17155caddy1.jpg


17155caddy2.jpg
 
3M MG would be replaced by 3M PI-3000 Swirl Mark Remover.



See my review of #80 in the reviews section.



3M MG is "slightly" more agressive than #80 and "slightly" less agressive than #83. Glossiness is more apparent in #80 than the MG. (could be because of the alleged fillers/oils/paintable polymers/or whatever they call it)
 
You are correct about the oils in #80 creating a more glossy look. Neither 3M RC nor MG contain fillers and/or oils of any kind. What you see is what you get, which is better in my opinion when doing corrective polishing. That being said, the oils in #80 will look a lot better when applied to a dark colored car vs. MG but like you said, MG is actually somewhere between #80 and #83, so essentialy, for the absolute *best* finish/look you can follow MG with #80, or even #82 (even milder). The extra step/s might not be worth it to most people but the perfectionist will definitely appreciate it. :xyxthumbs
 
Tanat198- Sounds like you can get 3M products, so I'd use a two-step approach that has worke well for me for holograms and other such marring.



First use 3M PI-III RC (05933) and *then* use the PI-III MG (05937), or use the new PI-3000 equivalents. The RC isn't as aggressive as it sounds and will do the lion's share of the work. Sometimes (usually, for me) trying to do it all with products like the MG/#80 is just asking too much, at least by PC. Better, and faster, in the long run, to use a two-step approach.



Interesting that everyone considers MG to be more aggressive than #80. I found #80 to be more aggressive, at least initially, before it breaks down. But it's not like I was doing side-by-side comparisons. And I sure would've said MG was quite a bit milder than #83, but again, that's not based on any controlled comparisons so :nixweiss
 
Tanat198 said:
So I will try to remove holograms using PC with 3M. U think it's better?



This will work pretty well, if it is taking too long or not removing enough of the holograms (like my experience on my Denali), use a cutting pad and the Fine Cut - that will beat the hell out of 95% of your swirls. Then follow with MG and a polishing pad and you'll be in real good shape. Use the MG because the cutting pad and FC will leave some fogging/haze.
 
FWIW, I use the RC with a polishing pad as an intermediate step between the RC/cutting and the MG/polishing. In many cases, I can just omit the cutting pad step altogether. If you're using 4" pads, the RC/polishing works quite well.
 
Accumulator:

Do I work 3M like #83? or #80# (Buff until a light residue remain, or buff dry?) RC sounds aggressive. But is it less aggressive comparing to #83?
 
Tanat198 said:
RC sounds aggressive. But is it less aggressive comparing to #83?



Perfect It III RC is more aggressive than Megs #83. I can remove defects with one application of PI III RC that would take me 2 or 3 applications of #83 to remove.
 
What stevet says plus 3M RC doesn't have diminishing abrasives, so it start aggressive and ends aggressive which gives quicker results. You can work the products pretty much the same way, start off with moderate pressure and slowly remove pressure as you are polishing until you are finishing with only the weight of the machine. This is how I like to do it, and if it's a not so bad area you can even get away without added pressure the entire time.



Don't think of RC like the old Turtle Wax sandpaper in a jar, it's not like that at all. To be honest, I still find it quite mild and on stubborn defects it still take a few passes before knocking them out. Just keep in mind that 3M RC doesn't have fillers or oils, so the finish looks quite flat and nasty, maybe even slight hazing but all of your efforts will be fully apparent after the MG step, so just take your time and let it do the work.
 
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