Mastered rotary polishing?

[RAG]

The strangest phenomenon I've experienced, was when a black finishing pad left trails, but an orange cutting didn't...

That is crazy. I don't think I could come up with an explination for that either. I use the American Buffing pads (aka Propel) and find that the green pads finish down just as well as the their 2 softer grades...I think it's primarily because the green is more porous and generates basically no heat.

 

[Bob G]

Seems that some of the new harder clears are throughing you a left curve. Try to use a softer foam pad to tune in your polisher. The polishes should melt like butter and disapate in to the paint with just some fine residue remaining. thats when you know you got the right combination of speed and pad to do the job. Medium speed on black to 1500 to 2000 works best. the slower the better less change of creating hallgrams.



Bob Geco

auto detailing since 1970

 

[RAG]

Agree, medium/slow is better for finishing. But, 1500 is borderline and 1800-2000 is WAY too fast for finishing (especially on black).

 

[TeutonicCarFan]

NOTE: all using rotary....what would be your best advice for applying FPII w/o holograms?? Should I use my LC white or black and what speed (for final pass)? ALSO for the application of FMJ, should I do this by hand or via LC black pad?

 

[DSVWGLI]

NOTE: all using rotary....what would be your best advice for applying FPII w/o holograms?? Should I use my LC white or black and what speed (for final pass)? ALSO for the application of FMJ, should I do this by hand or via LC black pad?

Try it with a polishing pad if that doesn't work then use a finishing pad. If you still have holograms use the PC. It all depends on the paint you are working with. Never used FMJ.

 

[porta]

Agree, medium/slow is better for finishing. But, 1500 is borderline and 1800-2000 is WAY too fast for finishing (especially on black).

It depends on how hard the paint is.I prefere higher rpms on harder clears, think I get a higher gloss. I´ll go for a finishing pad and PO85RE5 or RD.

 

[RAG]

NOTE: all using rotary....what would be your best advice for applying FPII w/o holograms?? Should I use my LC white or black and what speed (for final pass)? ALSO for the application of FMJ, should I do this by hand or via LC black pad?

I like the Green Propel II (American Buffing) pad best...much better luck finishing with this pad than the lake country red or black.



FMJ by hand with a foam applicator - I've done hundreds of cars with this stuff but am shifting toward UPP as FMJ tends to leave residue on plastic trim.

 

[gmblack3]

My experience on PITA corvette black is that I still need the heat (I guess thats what gets it done) that the rotary produces with 106ff/rmg and a green P2 pad. The PC will not clean it up good enough using the same pad and product. No buffer trails at all at 1400.

 

[RAG]

My experience on PITA corvette black is that I still need the heat (I guess thats what gets it done) that the rotary produces with 106ff/rmg and a green P2 pad. The PC will not clean it up good enough using the same pad and product. No buffer trails at all at 1400.

Yeah, I never have any problems with hard GM black...I like the paint quite a bit.



BTW, the Green PIIs that I finish with have at least 50 hours of use each...so they are well broke in. I recently got some new ones and realized that, when new, they'd be a little harder to finish with on black due to theif firmness.

 

[gmblack3]

Yeah, I never have any problems with hard GM black...I like the paint quite a bit.



BTW, the Green PIIs that I finish with have at least 50 hours of use each...so they are well broke in. I recently got some new ones and realized that, when new, they'd be a little harder to finish with on black due to theif firmness.

Thanks Ryan, You always have great info!!!



I need to order a few more green P2s.