Making metallic paint pop
- Thread starter 93zder
- Start date
distrbd
all in the details
93zder said:
I don't think you'll see a noticeable difference using Mother's pure carnuba,if you want your metallic paint to pop,try Duragloss #105 ,in my experience it's one of the best sealants for metallic paint
Some top #105 with carnuba for extra shine/depth but that would be a personal preference.
wannafbody
wannafbody
I always found that the original NXT muted flake. Funny but I found that ColorX didn't. I'd suggest stripping it and trying Mothers FX, Duragloss or Zaino.
Accumulator
Well-known member
IME adding a wax to an existing LSP isn't likely to *add* to metallic pop, but is rather more likely to further *mute* it. The fewer things between the paint and your eye the better the pop is likely to be IMO.
FWIW, the best LSP I've ever used for this is UPP. I'd expect a "light sealant" (as opposed to, say, a "heavy wax") to be best for this.
But I've found that (same old story), most of the pop comes from the prep. Micromarring that's fine enough to be basically invisible will still refract the light just enough to make metallic paint look less-than-wonderful. When I'm certain I have a metallic paint marring-free (and that can mean a *LONG TIME* spent inspecting under numerous lighting conditions), I give it some final burnishing with a finishing pad/polish combo, and *that* is what makes the metallic really pop IME.
FWIW, the best LSP I've ever used for this is UPP. I'd expect a "light sealant" (as opposed to, say, a "heavy wax") to be best for this.
But I've found that (same old story), most of the pop comes from the prep. Micromarring that's fine enough to be basically invisible will still refract the light just enough to make metallic paint look less-than-wonderful. When I'm certain I have a metallic paint marring-free (and that can mean a *LONG TIME* spent inspecting under numerous lighting conditions), I give it some final burnishing with a finishing pad/polish combo, and *that* is what makes the metallic really pop IME.
Bunky
Detailing Gnosis
wannafbody said:
I used Mothers FX and Mothers Top Coat on a dark blue metallic paint recently. I liked the end result. The flake popping really adds character to the appearance.
Accumulator
Well-known member
93zder said:
See if you can find some really unforgiving lighting so you can give the car a merciless inspection. A big challenge with metallics is simply seeing what's really going on with the clear.
That SSR2.5 oughta help a lot, and I wouldn't be surprised if a final polishing with something milder gave you better pop too. As soon as my silver cars look (basically/realistically) perfect, I know they're about 80% of the way to where I want them.
Could someone recommend a good rotary for SR's and polishing? And where can i get one for a good price?
Right now i only have a cordless (battery powered) 4" polisher. I'm happy wiht it for waxing as it reduces the strain vs. hand waxing. It's not cutting it when it comes to my PB SSR2.5 though.
thanks
Right now i only have a cordless (battery powered) 4" polisher. I'm happy wiht it for waxing as it reduces the strain vs. hand waxing. It's not cutting it when it comes to my PB SSR2.5 though.
thanks
imported_Chris223
New member
For OTC waxes, TWPUG liquid I thought always did a really nice job making my silver metallic paint pop. As did Gold Class. I just stopped using them because of durability and I wanted more of a wet look rather than flake pop.
Accumulator
Well-known member
93zder said:
I'd get some kind of random orbital/dual-action polisher first and *then* consider a rotary. You'll need the former if (more like *when*) the rotary leaves you with holograms anyhow.
PC/UDM/Flex/Cyclo...no idea how to get the best price though :nixweiss