Make It Shine: Swissvax Concorso meets Dolphin Grey Audi RS4 - 56K no no!

Very nice job.

I'm new to detailling, so i don't really understand all of the terms/abbreviation you guys use in car detailling. I'll make sure i read a lot so i can understand almost everything.



But with the final pictures, wow, you did a very nice job on this RS4.

The owner was surely amazed by the result !



Congrats on this one !



:bigups
 
dont you just love this wet looking Swissvax shine...

great job



I think that was the best birthday present ever !!!
 
BEAUTIFUL work.



I don't see an improvement in the aftermarket wheels though.



rs4_wb.JPG
 
resek said:
Very nice job.

I'm new to detailling, so i don't really understand all of the terms/abbreviation you guys use in car detailling. I'll make sure i read a lot so i can understand almost everything.



But with the final pictures, wow, you did a very nice job on this RS4.

The owner was surely amazed by the result !



Congrats on this one !



:bigups



This should help you with the abbreviations: Acronym Decoder COMPLETE 11/26/07 - Autopia.org
 
Picus said:
I'll say, they look great. The car looks very nice too. That paint can be a real back breaker!



Thanks Kev!

tdekany said:
Beautiful outcome man!



Thanks a lot!!!



mshu7 said:
Fantastic work and writeup!



Many thanks!



Jokeman said:
Very nice write up and nice work!



Thanks Jokeman!



karburn said:
Outstanding - both the work and the documentation. The more I work on my own car, the more I appreciate the efforts and results that the full-time pros produce. Well done.



Thanks a lot! Nice to see others picking up the efforts of pros and applying it to their own cars :)



Holden_C04 said:
Wow! I read this write-up before your last post and while I was impressed before, that last one bumps it up to outstanding.



:bow:bow:bow



Haha! Thanks Tyler!



resek said:
Very nice job.

I'm new to detailling, so i don't really understand all of the terms/abbreviation you guys use in car detailling. I'll make sure i read a lot so i can understand almost everything.



But with the final pictures, wow, you did a very nice job on this RS4.

The owner was surely amazed by the result !



Congrats on this one !



:bigups



Thanks a lot! Shine posted a great link above with a decoder, be sure to check it out! I was also confused when I first started. You'll pick up quickly though :)



L.R.D said:
dont you just love this wet looking Swissvax shine...

great job



I think that was the best birthday present ever !!!



Yes I do, I was amazed at how wet of a finished the wax gave to the paint! Thanks :D



AppliedColors said:
BEAUTIFUL work.



I don't see an improvement in the aftermarket wheels though.



rs4_wb.JPG



Thanks! Yeah, I prefer the OEM wheels too.



L.R.D said:
What did you prefer ?

applying Concorso by hand or with an applicator ?



I liked applying it by applicator because you could spread it much easier, and faster. It worked great for surfaces that weren't exposed to the sun. On the side that was exposed to the sun, I tried it by hand and was a bit more tedious to keep taking more wax out of the jar. Hand application worked great for very tight areas though, like the trunk and around the moldings.
 
Reflectivity is suffering significantly here, and what's the etching on the top left about?

IMG_2366.jpg




Is that a large scratch across the panel?

IMG_2314.jpg




My favorite part of the detail, very nice!

IMG_2376.jpg




It seems as if all the plastic painted parts have lost their reflectivity, especially in comparison to the metal painted panels...

IMG_2333.jpg




Another good example of this...

IMG_2334.jpg




Ah, what a great shot - what did you use on the plastic up front? The cleaning procedure as well as protectant.

IMG_2345.jpg




So, excuse me if I missed something - but what did you follow up with, considering you compounded this panel with a yellow CCS? I would imagine those halogens have a hard time spotting holograms, but the yellow is notorious for that, particularly during deep imperfection removal like this.

IMG_2224.jpg




Gorgeous! I love the outcome. Would be nice to have some direct sun shots though.

IMG_2309.jpg




Lastly, who's sanding marks were those? If they were yours, what was your procedure?
 
Thanks for taking the time to critically analyze my work. I'm not sure of the tone upon which you're posing these questions, but I'll assume it's just questions. After all, I welcome criticism, suggestions and questions.



charlesaferg said:
Reflectivity is suffering significantly here, and what's the etching on the top left about?

IMG_2366.jpg



The composition of this picture was created with the intention to capture the area which had defects before (sanding marks), and not to capture reflectivity shots. I could have just backed up the focus a bit on my lens and would have had a sharp reflection.



The top left area is actually a clearcoat blotch. This car turned out to be a vehicle purchased as damaged, and was repainted.



Is that a large scratch across the panel?

IMG_2314.jpg



I'm surprised that your critical eye didn't pick up my mention of a 3M clearbra before posting this question. As a mentioned previously, a 3M clearbra was installed prior to the detail. The angle at which the picture was taken unfortunately highlights the seam line.



Why else would I have taped like this.....

IMG_2198.jpg




My favorite part of the detail, very nice!
IMG_2376.jpg




Thanks! Everyone is very happy with this part of the detail as well.



It seems as if all the plastic painted parts have lost their reflectivity, especially in comparison to the metal painted panels...

IMG_2333.jpg




Another good example of this...

IMG_2334.jpg



Okay, now I am starting to get slightly annoyed. As I mentioned earlier, the optics and composition of the pictures have a very large bearing on how 'reflective' a surface is. I could easily process the picture in photoshop, add some contrast, maybe step down the exposure slightly and add some offset, and you may feel differently about the picture. Furthermore, plastic painted panels CAN look different, in my experience, even after a thorough multi-step correction process.



Ah, what a great shot - what did you use on the plastic up front? The cleaning procedure as well as protectant.

IMG_2345.jpg



Thanks for the compliment on the picture. I cleaned the plastic with APC, and protected it with 303....after the pictures. We took the pictures, without the license plates on, then the owner took me out for breakfast.



So, excuse me if I missed something - but what did you follow up with, considering you compounded this panel with a yellow CCS? I would imagine those halogens have a hard time spotting holograms, but the yellow is notorious for that, particularly during deep imperfection removal like this.

IMG_2224.jpg



Technically I did not COMPOUND the panel. I used Super Intensive Polish, which is low on cut in comparison to a compound such as PowerGloss or M105. I am guessing you are inexperienced with a couple of things, such as 1) Hard paint, and 2) Using Super Intensive Polish. As Todd (TH0001) says himself, SIP finishes down extremely well. He uses SIP to jewel the paint on Ferraris (with a lower cut pad). I have never worked on a Ferrari yet, but I would imagine the paint is softer than Audi's. With that said, polishing the RS4 with a yellow pad and SIP left the paint defect free and quite glossy. Also, as I stated in my write up, I felt that more gloss could be achieved, hence my follow up with PO106FF on a white pad. I also see that you made an incorrect reference to me using a yellow CCS pad. If you have used one of these before, you will know that they really haze up the paint with their rough composition. I used LC yellow pads, and Sonus yellow pads (which are made by LC). I find these give the same cut with SIP.



Gorgeous! I love the outcome. Would be nice to have some direct sun shots though.

IMG_2309.jpg



Thanks.



Lastly, who's sanding marks were those? If they were yours, what was your procedure?



If you read the write up, you would not be asking this question.
 
A couple notes. On the bumper, it is possible they were re-sprayed, which would explain the difference in reflectivity. I don't think so though; every RS4 I've done has bumper that are a slightly different colour/orange peel content to the paint. Actually a lot of cars have this. Go check out an G35 and any Acura.



On the sip/yellow question, you did miss something. Kaval mentioned polishing the car with 106ff/white later in the writeup.
 
Reflection (or sharpness of reflection) in photo's is a matter of focus (and apeture). I am by all means a vary much an amature at photography (and I don't know if I am using the correct terms).



Focusing on the surface of the paint (such as an emblem) will "blur" the reflection, since the reflection is "father away" then the surface of the paint. Focusing on the reflection of the paint will blur the surface of the paint (trim, door handles, etc) because they are "closer" then the reflection.
 
Todd - What you're describing is called "depth of field." The smaller the aperture (f2.8), the more shallow the depth of field (a short distance between the emblem and an edge just 4 inches away will shift to out of focus). Using a tripod, one could set the aperture to something like f14 and get more of the same composition in focus.
 
kaval said:
Thanks for taking the time to critically analyze my work. I'm not sure of the tone upon which you're posing these questions, but I'll assume it's just questions. After all, I welcome criticism, suggestions and questions.



Of course it's just questions of clarification, and my observations - I'm not intending to be hostile at all. Regardless, that doesn't sound very welcome, particularly with what you said to me later...







The composition of this picture was created with the intention to capture the area which had defects before (sanding marks), and not to capture reflectivity shots. I could have just backed up the focus a bit on my lens and would have had a sharp reflection.



I figured, and yes I also figured your camera did it, but I was not sure. Since I didn't see a really, really clear shot of the surface, I wasn't sure what the camera was focusing on.







The top left area is actually a clearcoat blotch. This car turned out to be a vehicle purchased as damaged, and was repainted.



You should have mentioned that.







I'm surprised that your critical eye didn't pick up my mention of a 3M clearbra before posting this question. As a mentioned previously, a 3M clearbra was installed prior to the detail. The angle at which the picture was taken unfortunately highlights the seam line.



Honestly, it looked like a hair on the lens to me, and I didn't even think of the clear-bra. I guess I just thought it was more photo troubles. I must have missed that particular photo of the taping of the clear bra, or I didn't notice the location of the tape.





Okay, now I am starting to get slightly annoyed. As I mentioned earlier, the optics and composition of the pictures have a very large bearing on how 'reflective' a surface is. I could easily process the picture in photoshop, add some contrast, maybe step down the exposure slightly and add some offset, and you may feel differently about the picture. Furthermore, plastic painted panels CAN look different, in my experience, even after a thorough multi-step correction process.



I know they can look different, I was just asking for clarification. If you can't take the criticism, and aren't willing to kindly give your end of the story, then I won't bother you with it. It's not like I didn't genuinely compliment your work as well.

Thanks for the compliment on the picture. I cleaned the plastic with APC, and protected it with 303....after the pictures. We took the pictures, without the license plates on, then the owner took me out for breakfast.







Technically I did not COMPOUND the panel. I used Super Intensive Polish, which is low on cut in comparison to a compound such as PowerGloss or M105. I am guessing you are inexperienced with a couple of things, such as 1) Hard paint, and 2) Using Super Intensive Polish. As Todd (TH0001) says himself, SIP finishes down extremely well. He uses SIP to jewel the paint on Ferraris (with a lower cut pad). I have never worked on a Ferrari yet, but I would imagine the paint is softer than Audi's. With that said, polishing the RS4 with a yellow pad and SIP left the paint defect free and quite glossy. Also, as I stated in my write up, I felt that more gloss could be achieved, hence my follow up with PO106FF on a white pad. I also see that you made an incorrect reference to me using a yellow CCS pad. If you have used one of these before, you will know that they really haze up the paint with their rough composition. I used LC yellow pads, and Sonus yellow pads (which are made by LC). I find these give the same cut with SIP.



You're right, I realize you didn't compound it. SIP is my polish of choice, and I'm curious as to how you would respond by clarifying your specific procedures, and to accuse me of inexperience in such an unprofessional manner is uncalled for. I meant not to make personal attacks against you, so please don't take it as such.



Yes, I know they haze the hell out of the paint - that's why I sent my yellow pads back to my supplier.



Yes, Ferrari paint, particularly the older paints, are some extremely soft paints.



Yes, I have experience on hard clears such as Audis.







If you read the write up, you would not be asking this question.



No - considering I did read it and took the time to link photos and give my observations kindly, I'll ignore this, because I've got nothing against you. I'm really sorry if it came off the wrong way, but that's no reason to say these things. I honestly felt you clarified well until you took things personal.



Look, I'm not bashing you, and I'm not going to start by trying to attempt to bash your credibility with the same fallacious argument.
 
Ok guys. I think we have exhausted this thread. Let's move on and keep it civil. Thanks for your cooperation.
 
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