Magnetic paint thickness gauge

Thanks guys for the help!



Accumulator-I was thinking that the other day. Really, that nice paint thickness gauge would be a lot cheaper than repainting the area(s) on the car that are now down to the primer. I'm suppose to meet with my buddy who has one of the nice gauges and we are gonna go over the car. To my knowledge the only area on the car that isn't original is the rear bumper cover thanks to the dumb *** tow truck driver!
 
I have the FS502 from FenderSplender, Inc. I like it because it measures in mils as well as microns. A micron is a smaller, more precise measurement. I picked it up for $494.00.
 
OK so I got to testing tonight and here is what I found. The car is 3.5 to 4.0 mils throughout. The thing my buddy said though is over all those are good numbers, but you really don't know how thick the base coat really is since the gauges really only measure all layers. So with that being said is that a safe number to use power gloss on parts of the car? The parts that need the power gloss measured 3.5 to 4.0 like the rest. What do you all think?
 
I have been told that for the most part, the clear is 25% of the total reading, and the base/primer is 75%. So, if you have a mil of 3.5 to 4.0 or from what I have read anywhere from 3.0-6.0 mils, you have about .0875% to 1 or from what I have read .75 to 1.5 mils. Maybe my information is incorrect, but with reading up on this and asking a few body shop personell in the area, this seems to be the consenus; which lead me to buying a gauge that can measure both mils and microns. I do all my measurements in microns.
 
twheat said:
OK so I got to testing tonight and here is what I found. The car is 3.5 to 4.0 mils throughout. The thing my buddy said though is over all those are good numbers, but you really don't know how thick the base coat really is since the gauges really only measure all layers. So with that being said is that a safe number to use power gloss on parts of the car? The parts that need the power gloss measured 3.5 to 4.0 like the rest. What do you all think?



Honestly, I think that nobody can say for certain. Really. IF the paint is supposed to be 4 mils everywhere then the areas that are down to 3.5 shouldn't be polished any more. But that's not all *that* likely IMO as paint thickness simply varies a lot on most vehicles.



It just goes back to this being a matter of some *very* fine measurements...when the rule-of-thumb says not to remove more than 0.0003"-0.0005", well, that's getting pretty precise (which is why a lot of us prefer to measure in microns).



If it were mine I wouldn't hesitate to use the PG on it. But I'd be careful and I'd keep an eye on those polished areas.



Anyhow, your Bimmer is single stage, right? That makes all the "how much you can remove" stuff, like what I posted above, moot. Different type of paint, different ballgame.



The rules for thinning ss are simply different; you can generally thin it more than basecoat/clearcoat. I've cut ss down to primer and the super-thin paint surrounding the cut-through did OK. The problem is that as the thin ss oxidizes, you'll remove more and more fixing that, which will enlarge the too-thin area. It really only matters as much as you care about it; the areas I cut through did OK because I kept them heavily waxed; no problem for ages until I finally had the areas repainted and that vehicle was outside 24/7. Just gotta *really* maintain the damaged areas.
 
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