Machine Polishing Past, Present and the Future?

I've tried the micro surface sandging discs all the way up to 12000 and they just didn;t cut it. I could see these used more for metal or maybe wood? But on automotive paint with a DA it was a no go. Thanks for the compliments guys.
 
Q about the 5-6K sanding discs- do they level the paint's texture much? As in, will you end up with less orange peel in the area of operation when correcting RIDS?
 
Accumulator said:
Q about the 5-6K sanding discs- do they level the paint's texture much? As in, will you end up with less orange peel in the area of operation when correcting RIDS?
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Im sure to some microscopic level it may a little. To the visual eye the texture stayed the same. If that makes sense. Are you feeling me you old fart? I beleive these are Accumulator Audi Proof. ok Well maybe nothing is, but then again its usally not the tool, it usally the operator!:yo:
 
Barry Theal said:
I've tried the micro surface sandging discs all the way up to 12000 and they just didn;t cut it. I could see these used more for metal or maybe wood? But on automotive paint with a DA it was a no go. Thanks for the compliments guys.
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Hmm... what sort of issues did you find with them? Left too much haze behind even at the finest grit? Too slow to be viable? Just curious...



Barry Theal said:
Im sure to some microscopic level it may a little. To the visual eye the texture stayed the same. If that makes sense. Are you feeling me you old fart? I beleive these are Accumulator Audi Proof. ok Well maybe nothing is, but then again its usally not the tool, it usally the operator!:yo:
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I haven't used the Trizact discs, are they foam backed like the Meguiar's Unigrit "Finishing Discs" are? That and/or the use of an adequate interface pad should effectively decrease the cut enough to keep orange peel reduction/surface texture alteration to a minimum if one were particularly concerned about that aspect.



At the end of the day even compounding/polishing can cause a textural change on a microscopic level so super-fine grit sanding isn't doing anything drastically different.
 
Great article Barry. Thanks for sharing. I use the Trizac discs on my DA from time to time. Is there a big difference in using them with an actual air sander? If so, what machines do you recommend?
 
I haven't tried the micromesh in 6000,8000,and 12000 grit. I have been using the 3M wet dry paper in 6000,8000, and 12000. When I run out of the 3M stuff I might give the micromesh a try.
 
I love retexturising paint. rayon pads are wicked for that and finish down better than wool or surbuf. microfibre quality I'd say
 
Great write up Barry. I have also wondered if this could be the way that the industry is going. It seems to be a huge time saver and safer for the ridiculously thin paint we deal with today.
 
Interesting read, to say the least and gives me something else to think about. While I have not tried the 5000 grit paper, I know how much work goes into sanding and compounding, and I know in this stage you are not compounding. Just thinking out loud here, Most details I do even if the paint is trashed I can get a nice finish with a 2 stepper using the MF pads and a compound, followed up with foam and a finishing polish. Do you save much time doing sanding with the 5000 versus a compounding step? I know the prices I have seen for the 5000 disks don't make it cost effective at this time, just wanted to throw that out there for discussion...



also, comparatively speaking and I know there are too many variables, but generally speaking, which removes more paint, compounding with say D300/MF pad or damp sanding with the 5000 grit?



Thanks,

Tom
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
At the end of the day even compounding/polishing can cause a textural change on a microscopic level so super-fine grit sanding isn't doing anything drastically different.
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Right, just wondered if it was any big diff from, like 4K in a practical sense. Sometimes there's a, uhm...kinda drastic threshold of significance with this stuff.



Barry Theal said:
Im sure to some microscopic level it may a little. To the visual eye the texture stayed the same. If that makes sense...
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Copy that, answers my question perfectly.



Are you feeling me you old fart?
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[INSERT smart-@$$ed comment about "feeling" :eek: Barry Theal HERE] :chuckle: :nana:



I beleive these are Accumulator Audi Proof. ok Well maybe nothing is, but then again its usally not the tool, it usally the operator!
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Woo-hoo, just keep that up, Theal :bat But seriously, I always *do* wonder about that "operator" factor when it comes to you and sanding, and of course I mean that as a compliment.



And actually those Audis *do* have terrible orangepeel and I gotta watch that I don't make for weird textural inconsistencies.



Yeah, I too am a fan of sanding instead of hammering with a compound, but only when the operator knows what he's doing. Plenty of folks will cause damage with really mild papers, maybe just *because* the stuff is "so nice and safe". There ares sooo many "Help! I wetsanded my car and..." threads here that I usually think "if you gotta ask, you shouldn't do it".
 
ww2717 said:
SVR

Where can you buy those rayon pads from



Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
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The rayon pads are made by Flexipads in England and were originally made for polishing scratches and swirls out of glass with that special oxide

Are used here in Aus by people who work with stainless steel



excellent finish quality 98% of the time on automotive paint. great with rotary and forced rotation. RO work can make the pads frizz up like a bad hair day



Flexipads - European Manufacturer - Engineering, Automotive and Car Detailing Consumables
 
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