Machine Polishing my Audi A3

[Ancient of Mumu]

Hi all,



I've been out of the detailing loop for awhile, having only been maintaining my cars by hand polishing and sealing, first using 1z products and then the Klasse Twins. Now, I'd like to step up to machine polishing, but with so many options, I'm overwhelmed. I think I've narrowed it down to what I need, but I could use some confirmation and/or correction.





For the machine, I've decided to go with the Griot's.



Some notes:

1. The car hasn't been detailed in several months.

2. There are a couple of long, but not deep scratches in my doors that I want to correct.



So as far as I can tell, it should go something like this:



Wash

Clay

M105 with 4" Hydro-tech Cyan around the major scratches

M105 with 5.5" CCS orange for the rest of the car

M205 with 5.5" CCS white

Wash with Dawn mixture

Seal with LSP (I have KSG, but I'm open to others)



Thoughts?

 

[Accumulator]

Ancient of Mumu- Welcome to Autopia!



I'm not sure you'll see the functional diffs you're expecting between the cyan and orange pads, but the size diffs will probably do something.



Be careful to use the M105 correctly or you'll need an intermediate step with M205 on a pad with more cut than that white one. I'd use a spritz of Meguiar's #34 when buffing off M105 residue.



Hope the Dawn wash is sufficient to clean off all the M205 oils.



I'd use KAIO before the KSG.

 

[Ancient of Mumu]

Thanks Accumulator for the reply.



1. The only difference I was expecting between the two colored pads was area of coverage.

2. I assume that one buffs the M105 off by hand?

3. Is there something better than a dawn wash to get rid of M205 oils?

4. Really KAIO first? This detail might take longer than I want - I just want to get the car looking good before I put it up for sale

 

[RaskyR1]

I'd go with the flat LC pads over the CCS ones too.

 

[Accumulator]

Thanks Accumulator for the reply.



1. The only difference I was expecting between the two colored pads was area of coverage.

Nah, IMO the big diff is the effectiveness/amount of friction.

2. I assume that one buffs the M105 off by hand?

Yeah, and be careful about it as the product remains abrasive.

3. Is there something better than a dawn wash to get rid of M205 oils?

My fave is PrepWash from Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies

4. Really KAIO first? This detail might take longer than I want - I just want to get the car looking good before I put it up for sale

Roger that on the quickie-for-resale, but the KAIO goes really fast. Do you have any other LSPs on hand? If you want to do one application there are better choices than the Klasse twins IMO. If it sells *really* fast you could maybe get by with the AIO alone.

 

[Ancient of Mumu]

Yeah, and be careful about it as the product remains abrasive.



Any special techniques and towels you recommend?





Roger that on the quickie-for-resale, but the KAIO goes really fast. Do you have any other LSPs on hand? If you want to do one application there are better choices than the Klasse twins IMO. If it sells *really* fast you could maybe get by with the AIO alone.



That's all I have on hand, but if you have a good suggestion, I can just add it to my already growing shopping list...

 

[Accumulator]

Any special techniques and towels you recommend [for buffing off M105 residue]?

Try to "roll" the MF as opposed to "scrubbing" with it, the idea is to gently lift the residue off without grinding it in. And I like a little spritz of Meg's #34 to help lubricate and encapsulate...it's basically QDing the residue off.

..[KAIO]'s all I have on hand, but if you have a good suggestion, I can just add it to my already growing shopping list...

Throw a topper of some kind on it, maybe Collinite 845, which is often available locally (that's what I put on the M3 before sending it off on consignment). I'd worry that the KAIO would die off before the car sells and you'll have to redo it.