M16 vs M26?

D

dazco

New member
As i cannot find any ebay sellers with M16 anymore, (except in UK) can anyone tell me how M26 fares compared to 16?
 
dazco- They are two very different waxes. #16 is much brighter/more reflective looking whereas #26 is "deeper and darker" looking. #16 is much more durable.
 
Agree with what Accumulator says. Totally different animals. Closest thing in looks to M16 would be 476s or 845IW, both great choices. If you must have M16, PM me, I'd be willing to let one of my tins slide for a fair price.
 
yakky,

You have a PM.



Jeff



yakky said:
Agree with what Accumulator says. Totally different animals. Closest thing in looks to M16 would be 476s or 845IW, both great choices. If you must have M16, PM me, I'd be willing to let one of my tins slide for a fair price.
Click to expand...
 
yakky said:
... Closest thing in looks to M16 would be 476s or 845IW...
Click to expand...



Agree with the 845 = M16, but not with the 476S. 476S looked so different from #16on the A8 that my wife asked what I'd changed (and she did *not* mean in a good way :o ).
 
Here's a question to you Meguiars M16 users-



How do you think M16 would look on yellow?



My Superbee SRT8 has Detonator Yellow paint and it's a rather LOUD color. It has been topped with Meguiars # 26 from it's original owner and I have tried Collonite 845, S100, and Duragloss Aqua wax which I really liked as it darken up the paint nicely and the beading is unreal.



Jeff
 
JCturboT said:
Here's a question to you Meguires M16 users-



How do you think M16 would look on yellow?



My Superbee SRT8 has Detonator Yellow paint and it's a rather LOUD color. It has been topped with meguires # 26 from it's original owner and I have tried Collonite 845, S100, and Duragloss Aqua wax which I really liked as it darken up the paint nicely and the beading is unreal.



Jeff
Click to expand...



#16 doesn't do the darkening/depth/jetting thing. #26 really *does* do those things.



But this stuff is just sooo subjective; to my eyes, P21s, M16, and 845 all look pretty much the same.
 
Accumulator said:
#16 doesn't do the darkening/depth/jetting thing. #26 really *does* do those things.



But this stuff is just sooo subjective; to my eyes, P21s, M16, and 845 all look pretty much the same.
Click to expand...



Accumulator,

Just for kicks (and,to use up some of the waxs I have in my supply) I did half the hood with S100 and the other half with Collonite 845 last week.I used Collonite on my past car as well as my Wifes SUV and like it & love how it keeps beeding month-after-month not unlike the Zaino my Brother and Friends use on their rides.



Although I know the S100 would have nowhere near the longevity of the Collonite, the S100 side was much clearer. It's like the 845 somehow muted the paint.I held up a magazine to the hoods reflection and where I could easily read the text in the S100 side I had to really look hard at the Collonite side to read it.



I had 3 different people judge the difference and all picked the S100. Even my Wife who has zero interest in my cars noticed it.



Jeff
 
i was playing with the idea of flex buffing the collinite to see if it made it any better--but i'm not experienced enough to know what i'm doing to even know how to set it all up lol but maybe YOU can give it a shot? i'd be interested to see the results
 
JCturboT- Ah, OK, I'll defer to your side-by-side comparison! I never tried that and it sounds like a pretty obvious difference.



Heh heh, actually, I've only used P21s (not S100, just in case there really is a difference) and I've only used P21s a few times.



I wonder how #16 and P21s/S100 would compare in a test like that :think:



Alexshimshimhae- I'd be *very* surprised if that did anything desirable. FWIW, I don't use the Flex for LSP application/buffing anyhow as I prefer other machines for that (usually the Cyclo).
 
well i was thinking if i put it low, maybe i can kind of massage it in? or maybe if i speed it up it'll kind of clear up some? i don't know enough about it's properties to really know how to go about it lol but it was just a thought as i was working on a car one day.
 
Alexshimshimhae- While I *am* a big fan of "working" certain waxes (#16 comes to mind), IMO you're more likely to cause problems than derive benefits. Even with the #16 you can have things go haywire and end up with big issues.



IMO you're concerned for naught; I still think that the appearance benefits of most LSPs are vastly overstated *in normal use* ( side-by-side comparisons on the same panel are a different matter). Remember that story about how an "expert" was convinced that the 476S I used on an old Jag must've been one of the DodoJuice waxes because, as he put it "nothing else looks quite like that".



Yeah, many products have a "signature look" and some of us not only have our preferences but can also spot pretty subtle differences. But most people simply know whether a car looks good or not. Actually, most people can't even see that.
 
point taken sir lol you always seem to get me to step away from the ledge lol...ionno i guess i just feel like my arsenal is lacking in so many ways... lols
 
Most people would be happy with either wax, although #26 does have an advantage on darker colors and #16 is more durable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top