M105 Problem...

S

solekeeper

New member
Hey guys! I recently just switched to 2000 sandpaper at my bodyshop. I'm using 105 on a foam pad I have. When correcting cars, I'am somehow running into a problem.. For instance, I would buff out the scratches and then I would look at it again and the scratches seem to almost die back on me. And they need another passing.. Do you ever experience this?



Also, how many have had success buffing out sandscratches with the black tuf-buf wool pad using M105?
 
I've never tried buffing out 2000 sand marks with a FOAM pad. I always go to M105 and PFW and it takes out the scratches with little to no problems. I then follow with M105 on an LC Orange Cutting Pad to get rid of the wool pad marks. Works every time whether I am using a rotary or DA.
 
I was working on a BMW last monday that needed some sanding on the boot lid to remove some deep scratches. I used the 2000 grit sanding disc with a DA and after that tried to remove the sanding marks with 105+PFW on a rotary. It took me about 3 to 4 rounds of buffing to get rid of the sanding marks.



On thursday, I worked on a Evo9 which needed some sanding to remove etched in water marks. This time round I used the 2000 grit and than followed by the 4000 grit. With 1 pass of 105+PFW, I managed to remove the sanding marks. It might be due to the difference in the paint hardness on the BMW and Evo9 but I bellieve following the 2000 grit with the 4000 grit does make the removal of the sanding marks a easier job.
 
REVNU said:
I've never tried buffing out 2000 sand marks with a FOAM pad. I always go to M105 and PFW and it takes out the scratches with little to no problems. I then follow with M105 on an LC Orange Cutting Pad to get rid of the wool pad marks. Works every time whether I am using a rotary or DA.
Click to expand...



The foam pad I'am using acutally finishes down very well on dark colored cars using 105 and 2000 sanding marks.



Gen, switching to 4000 isn't an option... Any experience with the black tuf-buf wool?
 
I dont think he meant for you to switch to exclusively 4000 grit, but too use it in addition to the 2000 (2000,4000, polish). You need either a foam cutting pad or some wool. Get a couple of Megs yellow wool, foam polishing pad, and a finishing pad and go to town. I would also get some 205 for your finishing step. Some people can get it (105) to finish down on certain paints, but i have never personally got it to finish off that well.
 
swirlnuts said:
I dont think he meant for you to switch to exclusively 4000 grit, but too use it in addition to the 2000 (2000,4000, polish).
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I meant ;) . I actually thought of using a stronger wool pad or cutting compound to remove the 2000 sanding marks but I thought that would create lots of buffer swirls and hologram to clean up. So I chose to use the 4000 after the 2000 to make the job easier for me :p.
 
Btw below are the photos on the BMW I mentioned in the earlier post. A testing panel was done on the boot, even after the sanding and polishing, some of the scratches are so deep that you still can see them in certain angle.



boot01-01.jpg




boot01-02.jpg




boot01-03.jpg
 
Use a wool pad. Make slow, steady passes. Work clean. Keep everything separated.

Always "setup" to do the job; for each step. Be methodical like a robot. Don't rush.

Check progress often; after each pass (after the section has been worked) wipe down

the area with a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water to remove residue. It's extremely

important to work clean. If you suspect the slightest hint of contamination on the pad

and/or surface then clean. If the pad gets caked, clean it thoroughly or switch

pads.



Old pic but you'll get the idea...

P1010102.jpg
 
You'll never really remove the deeper scratches and removing the deeper sanding marks requires a wool pad and rotary for best results. Follow up with a foam pad and medium polish and then a finishing polish. you have to use 3 or 4 steps.
 
What would happen if you just wiped it down with pure IPA?



Just curious, and also after the wipe I can go straight to my next step correct? Thanks Guys!
 
work a section with wool, IPA, re-hit or go to foam and 105, ipa, then 205 or the like...



you can never go from sanding to wool/105 to wax...i dont care who you are, or what you are working on
 
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