M105/205 or Optimum for beginner?

toyotaguy said:
whats the point of a long working time though? 10 minutes to achieve the same resuts as 1 min? I'll take the shorter any time!



I still have optimum on hand for those times when I HAVE to work in the sun, but Ill never reach for them over M105/menzerna 203 when in the garage!



Those days are gone with the newer version......
 
integritydetail said:
..Accumulator, you're making the right decision to use up what you have before trying it...but after all, your screen name IS "Accumulator," lol..



Heh heh, I'm just tired of spending money for gallons of products that just sit around...HT EC, OCP, PI-III twins, now M105/M205 :o I have a bundle of money tied up in stuff that works and it really does seem nutty to spend *more* money for products I don't have storage room for. I have a LOT of shelf space, but those shelves are literally overlowing :o

The reason I recommended it for a beginner was he can just start polishing and not have to learn to watch for flashing, overworking, dusting, etc..



Yeah, and for those reasons I've been recommending its consideration, with the caveat that I haven't tried it.
 
Legacy99 said:
Read Todd's post on TID and you won't need 205 anymore.



-AND-



Bunky said:
I read it and makes a case for M105 as a one step polish. Todd is talented. I would like to hear from others that could get the same results and what limitations there may be (soft paint?).



Yeah, I've discussed that M105-only approach with a number of people who swear by it, and I do plan to give it a try some time. BUT...I have issues buffing off M105 residue without instilling micromarring (even if it is too light to show up under normal circumstances) so until I get that method to work for *me* I'm gonna keep recommending the approach that *does* work for me, namely M105 followed by M205.



These days I hardly *ever* do correction, so I'm pretty confident that my "Accumulator-proof" standard for ease-of-use will apply to most people who ask about this stuff. I'll have to mess around with the finishing step of that method and make sure it's easily mastered before I recommend it to somebody else.
 
integritydetail said:
Stop when you get the results you want, instead of dust, wipe off, re-apply, polish again...



The cut time of the new sprays is about the same as Meg's the work time no longer means how long it takes to break down the abrasives because the new spray compound is non-diminishing just like M105. It will cut until you stop the polisher. The new Optimum is a world apart from the old hyper and regular compounds that you may be familiar with.



I was hoping you'd say the working time is unlimited .. If Dr G made the polish turn different color when it's about to dry ..that will be the ultimate polish for newbies...
 
Accumulator: "I have issues buffing off M105 residue without instilling micromarring "



This is why you dont remove the 105, but go straight with a finishing pad and 105 for final polishing.
 
Legacy99 said:
Accumulator: "I have issues buffing off M105 residue without instilling micromarring "



This is why you dont remove the 105, but go straight with a finishing pad and 105 for final polishing.



So people keep telling me :D But at some point you gotta wipe things off?!?



I did two spot-corrections on the A8 yesterday, and went from M105/4" orange to M105/3" Griot's orange (virtually a finishing pad) using that approach. VERY very little residue to buff off. It did look ready-to-wax (SunGun wasn't charged up for a true inspection) but I did a quickie pass with 1Z HG/3" Griot's orange anyhow.



Oh, and yeah, I was using the 3" griot's pads on my PC with a 3.75" plate :soscared: NOT something I'd recommend, but it worked OK for me.
 
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