LSP for this situation

[JSFM35X]

I have all the respect for the guys on this site who knock out such high caliber work over and over. I am a guy who like his cars to look great all the time but I am getting frustrated with the time it takes to properly correct the car. I enjoy the wash and occasional re-coat of LSP but dred the polishing step. Mostly becasue I suck at it, and it takes (me) so long and I don't have that much free time.

We just added a new Subaru to the family in Ice Silver Metalic. I took delivery with only the mechanical prep being done and cleaned it up myself. I have not done any lsp yet becasue I cleaned and deconed the car but have not applied any LSP. Why-becasue I canot decide if I should jump into the world of coatings? I have always heard the Subaru's paint was soft and a PITA to polish. So far from what I see, all it needs is a very mild polish to get the paint super shiney. Very, very minor micro marring in very few spots that it hard to see on silver without the brinkman.

Luckly this car is SILVER. Well maybe not Lucky P). That is the best LSP to avoid the dreded Micro marring that can occurr on soft paint. I have not touched this paint to correct yet and I am not sure that the 2012 Subaru paint is soft, I have just read that over the years.

So, can a regular guy apply a coating sucessfully the first time out? If so which one! Also, if you know of something other than a coating please respond with that as well. I have used sucessfully in the past Ultima Paint Guard Plus, Power Lock, BFWD (Current favority), P21S 100%. I got away from Waxes becasue in the summer thay dont last and in the winter they dont last. Wish BF made a coating with Opticoat mar resistance, BFWD slickness, Opticoat durability, and Ultima PGP ease of application. (ARE YOU LISTENING TODD-LOL?)

Thanks again for the generosity of your experience and knowledge. It is appreciated.

 

[Wheelzntoys]

I say go for it, easier when car is new.

Opticoat 2.0 or Wolfs Hard Body

 

[Todd@RUPES]

So, can a regular guy apply a coating sucessfully the first time out? If so which one! Also, if you know of something other than a coating please respond with that as well. I have used sucessfully in the past Ultima Paint Guard Plus, Power Lock, BFWD (Current favority), P21S 100%. I got away from Waxes becasue in the summer thay dont last and in the winter they dont last. Wish BF made a coating with Opticoat mar resistance, BFWD slickness, Opticoat durability, and Ultima PGP ease of application. (ARE YOU LISTENING TODD-LOL?)

While a coating is always something fun to think about (in regards to future BLACKFIRE products) right now there is a product that matches most of your criteria and most importantly is easy-to-apply: http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...ehensive-opti-coat-2-0-application-guide.html

 

[TroyScherer]

I have experience with both CQuartz and OC/OG. I will do my best to list out my thoughts on both.



- CQ is slightly easier to apply as first time Coating user. It is more like applying a sealant as you apply it super thin and buff it off after it hazes.

- Once you do the first panel or so with OC/OG it is super easy and maybe even easier than CQ.

- Once you get pas the "permeant" thinking applying either is simple with some practice and experience.

- You can polish off both coating with finishing polish. Some have noted you can even level OC/OG by hand with something like GPS in within the 30 days of cure time.

- CQ has a very nice look in my opinion.

- CQ is only too last around 2 years. OC/OG is considered "more" permanent.

- Based on cost alone I think OC/OG wins.

My personal use and experience:

In my opinion OC/OG is the best protection for wheels. I am currently in the process of applying OC/OG to all of the wheels on my vehicles. I would suggest this to everyone.

OC is great protection for daily drivers and cars that you don’t always have time to take care of. Essentially you would never need to wax again. It will better resist marring and scratches. It defiantly makes it easier to wash as well; as the dirt releases so much easier. I have just OC/OG my truck that sits outside 24/7.

CQuartz is more of a super sealant in my opinion as it has around a 2 year life span. I have this on my wife’s car and it is very nice. It has good looks and releases dirt and water very well. In essence it is very similar to OC/OG but it is not permanent. Using Reload on top of CQ is great!



As far as choosing CQ vs. OC/OG:

I think the choice between CQ vs. OC/OG is dependent on your overall goal and comfort level in application and polishing skills. With both CQ & OC/OG you want to have the vehicle polished as perfect as possible. But since OC/OG is permanent you really want everything perfect before you seal everything in. Since CQ is approx a 2 year sealant I feel like you have a little more leniency on perfection. Because you know that sooner or later you will have to re-prep and re-apply, giving you the time to get better at machine polishing. As far as price and getting the best bang for your buck; I would say the winner is OC/OG.

OC/OG Application:

I prefer to use the CarPro Foam block & Suede MF as my applicator. I feel like it absorbs less and gives me a little more control of application.

Another trick I have learned is to transfer a small amount of OC/OG into a 2oz sprayer nd use that to mist the applicator. This seems to work much better to cover the entire face of the applicator and ease the use verses using the syringe. Also when I spray the applicator I spray towards the panel I am working on. That way any overspray ends up on the panel and I can spread it out.

Using a small spray bottle was actually suggested to me and others by Chris@Optimum.

When putting the coating back into the syringe there is an easy step to take. Pour the remaining coating into a small cup (like a medecine cup) and then use the blue tip to suck up all of the coating. I then turn the syringe vertical with the tip face up and push all of the air out. Then replace the tip with the black plastic cap. Since OC/OG is air cured and actives the less air in the syringe the better.

To this point I have had no problems. And everything has worked out well. Transferring the coating to a spray bottle for me is so much better and easier than "fighting" the syringe.

 

[tropicsteve]

no matter what you use, it all comes down to that inital surface prep.- claying & polishing. after that opti coat 2.o looks like the most durable. apply it with todd's great guide and like our ny members say "forget about it."
persoanlly, i like bfwd, bfcs. after the initial coating it's very easy to maintain with spray on, wipe downs with bfwd polymer spray, bfms spray, etc.