Lets talk about surbuf pads

W

WMD-DFW

New member
So Ive been messing around with my car mostly because someone backed up into me so the hood fender etc is being replaced so bring on the damage :woohoo:



Tried them on a white BMW and they worked magic tried them on my black hynduai and they took out 2000grit sanding marks with D151 Rejuvenating Cream but left the finish a mess, even if I stepped up the compound it still all came out looking like this



For soft paint it will take out wet sanding marks like no other but the finish it leaves is harder to clear up than the wetsanding marks

surbufafter.JPG
 
I have never had an issue cleaning up surbuf/M105 remains with orange/M205. Using both a r/o.



I have never polished a hynduai.



Tell us your complete process when using the surbuf pads.
 
d151 is recommended for use on a rotary. from the pics i wouldnt think the microfingers help the fact that youre using a d/a either.

also the few older hyundais i worked on had soft junk c/c. i would use either an LC tangerine or white pad and m205 and see how that looks. skip the d151.
 
jaynick808 said:
d151 is recommended for use on a rotary. from the pics i wouldnt think the microfingers help the fact that youre using a d/a either.

also the few older hyundais i worked on had soft junk c/c. i would use either an LC tangerine or white pad and m205 and see how that looks. skip the d151.
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The surbuf pads work excellent with a r/o. Also from what I hear D151 has a cut close to M205 and works fine with a r/o too.
 
gmblack3a said:
The surbuf pads work excellent with a r/o. Also from what I hear D151 has a cut close to M205 and works fine with a r/o too.
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Yep this was more a test in my book to see what the least aggresive compound would take out 2000grit sanding marks with a DA, I was actually really shocked when D151 took them out, with the finish it left though I would rather just use orange kompressor pad with SIP with a rotary and buff that out with M205 and a cyan hydrotech pad
 
WMD-DFW said:
Yep this was more a test in my book to see what the least aggresive compound would take out 2000grit sanding marks with a DA, I was actually really shocked when D151 took them out, with the finish it left though I would rather just use orange kompressor pad with SIP with a rotary and buff that out with M205 and a cyan hydrotech pad
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Ok so what did you try to take out what the surbuf/D151 left?



Which r/o did you use with the surbuf/D151 and for the other steps?
 
gmblack3a said:
Ok so what did you try to take out what the surbuf/D151 left?



Which r/o did you use with the surbuf/D151 and for the other steps?
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I tried 205 and black after that, than 205 and green, than orange. Than busted out the rotary with Orange Komperssor and SIP



It was with a 5.5in pad on PC7424XP, put product on the pad spread around turned on. I also tried it with 105 to see if it left any nicer finish but it didnt.
 
WMD-DFW said:
I tried 205 and black after that, than 205 and green, than orange. Than busted out the rotary with Orange Komperssor and SIP



It was with a 5.5in pad on PC7424XP, put product on the pad spread around turned on. I also tried it with 105 to see if it left any nicer finish but it didnt.
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Did you use any water with the surbuf? Please see the surbuf/M105 tips in my sig.
 
What kind of Hyundai is it? On the new black Genesis I detailed using Surbuf pads, I had to follow with M105 and a cutting pad to remove the hazing, then M205. Paint was insanely hard.
 
Its an elantra but the car is at the body shop right now going on its 4th repair, 4accidents all on the front end. So its a repaint
 
WMD-DFW said:
Its an elantra but the car is at the body shop right now going on its 4th repair, 4accidents all on the front end. So its a repaint
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That explains a lot. Repaints are always fun and can be challanging at times.



If you care to share your surbuf process, either I or someone can hopefully help you.



Did you experience the same results on the factory painted sections or where those areas not polished?
 
Hey Bryan,



Just had my first experience with SurBuf pads on an Elantra two days ago. Thanks to you and Greg Nichols, it went extremely well. The amount of correction with 105 was amazing, and *fast* on the pc. One application, and I got 95% complete correction. What was left were RIDS that were too deep to go after with just compounding anyway. Followed up with M205 on a red pad, and the finish was amazing. This was a fast polishing job (no jeweling) and it only took two hours to do, start to finish.



I did use the same SurBuf pad (since I only had one, and that one came to me gratis from Greg, thank you, sir) for the whole car. I kept the fingers clean by wiping the pad down very thoroughly between each application with a white terry cloth towel. Terry cloth towels seem to work much better at cleaning the crap out of pads than MFs do, for some reason.



Edit: also, using your water trick helped a ton. Not only did it make the 105 correct more, it made the residue easier to remove, and the additional water also helped keep the fingers on the pad clean. Wiping the pad down with the terry cloth between applications, the fingers came very clean, and I know it's because of the additional water.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Hey Bryan,



Just had my first experience with SurBuf pads on an Elantra two days ago. Thanks to you and Greg Nichols, it went extremely well. The amount of correction with 105 was amazing, and *fast* on the pc. One application, and I got 95% complete correction. What was left were RIDS that were too deep to go after with just compounding anyway. Followed up with M205 on a red pad, and the finish was amazing. This was a fast polishing job (no jeweling) and it only took two hours to do, start to finish.



I did use the same SurBuf pad (since I only had one, and that one came to me gratis from Greg, thank you, sir) for the whole car. I kept the fingers clean by wiping the pad down very thoroughly between each application with a white terry cloth towel. Terry cloth towels seem to work much better at cleaning the crap out of pads than MFs do, for some reason.



Edit: also, using your water trick helped a ton. Not only did it make the 105 correct more, it made the residue easier to remove, and the additional water also helped keep the fingers on the pad clean. Wiping the pad down with the terry cloth between applications, the fingers came very clean, and I know it's because of the additional water.
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Supe, Glad I could help. The main objective of using water with the surbuf pads is to bring the M105 back onto the surface. I'll have to give the TC towel a try, if I can find one around. :)



I usually use a soft brush, then blow the pad out with compressed air for cleaning on the fly.



Thanks for sharing your thoughts. :hifive:
 
Gee, it's like Elantras are becoming the official car of trying M105 via SurBuf!





SuperBee364 said:
..Just had my first experience with SurBuf pads ..with 105... Followed up with M205 on a red pad, and the finish was amazing...
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What strikes me is that you were able to do so well with such a gentle/minimal follow-up!



OK OK, next time I'm ordering from TOL I'll get some SurBufs.
 
Yeah, they really are a neat pad, Accumulator. As for the follow-up polish, I've had great luck following 105 with 205, as long as I'm using 205 with a PC. I *still* can't get 205 to finish off without holos on a rotary, but it does a fine job on the pc.
 
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