Let me get this straight (menzerna)

J

jbone

New member
okay..... Ive been reading and reading and I think I understand the menzerna "steps" But I really want to make sure I dont go buying something I dont really "need". So please correct me if im wrong:



Menzerna SIP (a.k.a. -PO85RD 3.02) is a medium cut polish which is followed with:

Menzerna Nano Polish (a.k.a. - PO106FF) which is a light polish to be followed by:

Menzerna Final Polish II (a.k.a. - PO85U) Which is used to finish before a sealant/glaze (if desired) and then an lsp?



Is there anyone of those three that arent needed?



Do I have the FPII part number correct? (I couldnt find "FPII" on AG)



Should these be followed by 3m UF to make sure there are no holograms? (ill be using a rotary)



Can clearkote products be used to top these polishes off? (I have vmw, rmg, cmw on the way)



Sorry for so many questions:o I really have been searching but I guess I wasnt having any luck finding the answers to these particular questions. I appreciate everyones help thus far, this really is a phenominal site!!:2thumbs:
 
You only need SIP and 106FF for a one-two combo.........



I've been using this for about 6 months, with fantastic results......My sealant, Klasse HGS, has bonded fine to the paint after these two steps.........
 
If your using SIP the only follow up you should require (if you want) is the 106FF.



Then protect it with CMW.



RMG is not necessary but adds to the look and wetness (imo).
 
another SIP / 106FF user. no need for a three step polish, especially the three polishes you mentioned. when you use SIP you'll see it finishes down pretty good, but the 106FF will get the paint to pop. most use it w/ a LC white pad, but you can also use a LC gray or blue finishing pad.
 
haper said:
another SIP / 106FF user. no need for a three step polish, especially the three polishes you mentioned. when you use SIP you'll see it finishes down pretty good, but the 106FF will get the paint to pop. most use it w/ a LC white pad, but you can also use a LC gray or blue finishing pad.
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Have you used FPII? It will finish down even better, but just another step.
 
Legacy99 said:
Have you used FPII? It will finish down even better, but just another step.
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+1. And the "just another step" part is a pretty important point. FPII isn't going to substitute for whatever polish you're planning on using to clean up compounding marks and holos. FPII is for added gloss only, so it's defnitely and additional step.
 
Thanks for the help so far. So I guess SIP + 106ff , and then only if I feel like the extra step to give it a little more add the FPII. Then top it w/ cmw.



Could a pink moose combo make up for the FPII? and would that hopefully take care of any holograms?
 
SuperBee364 said:
+1. And the "just another step" part is a pretty important point. FPII isn't going to substitute for whatever polish you're planning on using to clean up compounding marks and holos. FPII is for added gloss only, so it's defnitely and additional step.
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Any glaze could take place of FPII..........would I be right?
 
haper said:
another SIP / 106FF user. no need for a three step polish, especially the three polishes you mentioned. when you use SIP you'll see it finishes down pretty good, but the 106FF will get the paint to pop. most use it w/ a LC white pad, but you can also use a LC gray or blue finishing pad.
Click to expand...



In this context, is SIP used with 4ply-twisted wool pad with a rotary? and the 106FF used with LC white, also with rotary or PC?
 
I was always under the impression, and have read that PO106FF finishes down finer than FPII. One of the selling points of 106FF is that it has a heavier cut, but as you make multiple passes, it breaks down for an even finer finish than FPII.



In fact, I've been advised that if you apply FPII after PO106FF, you may make it slightly (I mean slightly) worse.



The reason I post this is because I have all 3 of the above products mentioned, but bought FPII first (IP/FPII combo). When I got SIP/106FF, I was advised not to use FPII any more.
 
orionredwing said:
I was always under the impression, and have read that PO106FF finishes down finer than FPII. One of the selling points of 106FF is that it has a heavier cut, but as you make multiple passes, it breaks down for an even finer finish than FPII.



In fact, I've been advised that if you apply FPII after PO106FF, you may make it slightly (I mean slightly) worse.



The reason I post this is because I have all 3 of the above products mentioned, but bought FPII first (IP/FPII combo). When I got SIP/106FF, I was advised not to use FPII any more.
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Have you tested it for yourself?
 
Is this by rotary or portercable? What are you goals?



If by PC you can get away with SIP/106ff...



If by rotary you may want to get IP/FPII because the results will be as good (but you may need an additional application of the IP) but you will not have the problems that SIP/106ff can give you on occassion.



As far as the Menzerna finishing polishes go here is my take:



PO106ff Nano Polish- Nice cut and amazingly glossy/sharp finish. Will act up on soft or"sticky" paints randomly and can mask or fill defects. Works very well as a finishing polish on harder paints an can double as a corrective polish as well.



PO85u Final Polish- Very wet polish that will provide very nice finishing on all paints. 106 has more "bite" on extermely hard clear coats but PO85u will provide more cut on medium to softer paints. Amazing on single stage paints as well.



PO85rd Final Finish- Works very similar to PO85u in terms of spreading and slickness. Doesn't have the bite to do any correction IMO, but is a beautiful jeweling polish that will sharpen reflections, increase gloss, and make sure holograms are removed. While some might consider it an extra (and not necessary) step after 106ff, I have found that PO85rd seems to sharpen the already amazing finish left by 106ff, and wards off any unwanted pad abrasions that many have experienced returning (with 106ff)



PO87mc MicroPolish (Final Polish II)- Another amazing finishing polish from Menzerna. Perfect on softer paints or when jeweling the paint for amazing gloss. Slightly less cut then PO85rd, PO87mc makes a perfect finisher on soft and finicky (or "sticky") paint.
 
TH0001 said:
Is this by rotary or portercable? What are you goals?



If by PC you can get away with SIP/106ff...



If by rotary you may want to get IP/FPII because the results will be as good (but you may need an additional application of the IP) but you will not have the problems that SIP/106ff can give you on occassion.



As far as the Menzerna finishing polishes go here is my take:



PO106ff Nano Polish- Nice cut and amazingly glossy/sharp finish. Will act up on soft or"sticky" paints randomly and can mask or fill defects. Works very well as a finishing polish on harder paints an can double as a corrective polish as well.



PO85u Final Polish- Very wet polish that will provide very nice finishing on all paints. 106 has more "bite" on extermely hard clear coats but PO85u will provide more cut on medium to softer paints. Amazing on single stage paints as well.



PO85rd Final Finish- Works very similar to PO85u in terms of spreading and slickness. Doesn't have the bite to do any correction IMO, but is a beautiful jeweling polish that will sharpen reflections, increase gloss, and make sure holograms are removed. While some might consider it an extra (and not necessary) step after 106ff, I have found that PO85rd seems to sharpen the already amazing finish left by 106ff, and wards off any unwanted pad abrasions that many have experienced returning (with 106ff)



PO87mc MicroPolish (Final Polish II)- Another amazing finishing polish from Menzerna. Perfect on softer paints or when jeweling the paint for amazing gloss. Slightly less cut then PO85rd, PO87mc makes a perfect finisher on soft and finicky (or "sticky") paint.
Click to expand...



wow that pretty much answered everything!!:xyxthumbs Im sitting here trying to think if I have any more questions LOL!!!! ........Thanks!
 
M0nK3y said:
Any glaze could take place of FPII..........would I be right?
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Not really. Glazes don't actually polish the paint using an abrasive action. A polish with an abrasive is a permanent thing (unless it gets *un* polished with swirls and improper care). A glaze is a temporary thing that'll last until it gets washed off.



orionredwing said:
I was always under the impression, and have read that PO106FF finishes down finer than FPII. One of the selling points of 106FF is that it has a heavier cut, but as you make multiple passes, it breaks down for an even finer finish than FPII.



In fact, I've been advised that if you apply FPII after PO106FF, you may make it slightly (I mean slightly) worse.



The reason I post this is because I have all 3 of the above products mentioned, but bought FPII first (IP/FPII combo). When I got SIP/106FF, I was advised not to use FPII any more.
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Give it a try and see what you think. :)
 
You may on occasion need a bit more cut than SIP can provide. That said, SIP and 106ff work great for a nice finish. I use FP with a red pad for that extra mirror like kick, but it isn't a necessity.
 
I really enjoy these threads; especially with great responses like TH0001's.

I can definitely agree that the nomenclature gets confusing....maybe Autopians could agree on what way we refer to the various Menzerna polishes.

I posted a similar question regarding Menzerna about 6 months ago....

http://www.autopia.org/forum/detailing-product-discussion/98387-understanding-menzerna.html



I use a PC and have only tired SIP/106ff. I personally would always follow SIP with a finishing polish. Lately I've been following up 106ff with UF. UF does take it to that next level of gloss and you can work it forever. (it's not healthy stuff though)

Sometimes I mix 106ff with UF 75%/25% it's a great trick I learned from Rick and Ryan. Sometimes I'll use some DWG on top of that.

LSP - CMW

Waiting to try 1000p and P21s 100% is on its way.



Again Autopians should agree on how we refer to which Menzerna polish.
 
I did! I tried it on half my hood in my latest detail 2 weeks ago. And the honest truth is that after SIP (orange pad) /106FF (white), my eyes were not good enough to notice a difference w/ FPII (white) - neither better or worse.



So after that experiment, I simply saved myself some time and stuck w/ SIP/106FF. I'm really patient with 106FF and take my time (Flex).



Interestingly enough, I do notice a difference between an IP/FPII combo vs SIP/106FF. The latter combo seems to have a bigger wow factor (maybe because of my paint type, according to a similar thread discussing IP vs SIP)



Like the rest of you, I'd really like to get more feedback on those who have tried it. We all know the polishing stage is the most important, and since I already have all these products, it's not like I'd have to stress on whether it's worth my money to order.



Do you think the higher power of the Flex (vs PC) has a bigger impact and really enables us to take advantage of 106FF for a finer finish?



D&D Auto Detail said:
Have you tested it for yourself?
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