Leaving crosshatch with PC?..

L

LS1Silverado05

New member
Well I own a Bright Red 01 Camaro SS , I bought the Pinnacle XMT Intermediate swirl remover kit, with corresponding pads. I used the intermediate swirl remover, the fine swirl remover, and then the polish/glaze. The car was washed thoroughly and clay-bar'd. The finish is baby smooth, but there is very minute crosshatch scratches in the paint, definately made by the PC because it has that tell tale DA Sander type markings. Its very fine, but of course jumps out to me. What should I use or do? I used the correct LC pads with the right polishes in the kit so I dont know what I did wrong..I am happy with the scratch removal, but I want to get rid of these left-over markings that are all over. Advice?..
 
You have to make sure you fully break down the polish you are using. With a PC, this can take a few minutes but you want to continue working it until it becomes translucent and easy to wipe off.
 
BigJimZ28 said:
yea either there was something on the pad or like Dan sayed you did not fully

break down the polish
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The pads were brand new just taken out of plastic when used, so thats not of concern. I felt like I ran the PC with the compound long enough...to the point it seemed like it would be drying. (I would estimate maybe 2 minutes on a fender)?... Should I go all the way back to the first compound?...Or try the last?...
 
Did you clay the car after all of the polishing steps? That's what it seems from your initial post anyway.



If so, do you think that the marks can be from the claybar? And if they are, a light polishing should remove them.
 
LS1Silverado05 said:
The pads were brand new just taken out of plastic when used, so thats not of concern. I felt like I ran the PC with the compound long enough...to the point it seemed like it would be drying. (I would estimate maybe 2 minutes on a fender)?... Should I go all the way back to the first compound?...Or try the last?...
Click to expand...



1.) there is always a chance of "something" getting on the pad

it's not like we work in an oberating room



2.) a fender is usually about 2-3 times the size of the area that you should be polishing

that also could be part of the problem
 
BigJimZ28 said:
1.) there is always a chance of "something" getting on the pad

it's not like we work in an oberating room



2.) a fender is usually about 2-3 times the size of the area that you should be polishing

that also could be part of the problem
Click to expand...



So you are saying I should take a fender in two or three sections? This could be part of it. I was doing a "body panel" at a time (door,fender, quarters), too much at once I take it?



Also, I clayed the car before not after, guess I said it backwards. Also, how fast do you move the PC?...For example, as you move across the panel, how much space do you cover? Say for a moment you were going across your monitor, how many seconds would it take you to go all the way across it?... Just getting some ideas. Thanks for the help. :waxing:
 
ok so it looks like we might have found the problem

2' square max(12" X12" or 16" x 16" till you figure out how everything works)



very slow about 1" per sec
 
BigJimZ28 said:
ok so it looks like we might have found the problem

2' square max(12" X12" or 16" x 16" till you figure out how everything works)



very slow about 1" per sec
Click to expand...



Yea, I definately have been going too fast and trying to cover too much space. I guess its instinctive to speed up so you dont "cut through" the paint....but in fact speeding up hurts you. I think this could have been the problem.
 
LS1Silverado05 said:
Yea, I definately have been going too fast and trying to cover too much space. I guess its instinctive to speed up so you dont "cut through" the paint....but in fact speeding up hurts you. I think this could have been the problem.
Click to expand...



The PC is SLOW, so you have to work SLOW if you want to get any correction...
 
PC isn't like a rotary. You're not going to burn through the paint with it. You want to keep it moving but as others have said, move slowly. and let the machine do the work. And yeah, don't try to do more than a 2X2 area at a time.



Progress with the PC seems slow at times, and you get tempted to try to do larger areas to speed up the process, but it doesn't pay off. You won't get the results you're after if you try to go too fast or cover too large an area at once.



I used the XMT series on my 2 '95 Camrys and got excellent results.



If you haven't watched them yet, watch the tutorial videos on PC use at autogeek.com. It's a good place to start...



Dual Action Orbital Polisher Guide: how to remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with an orbital buffer. Porter Cable 7424, foam pads, backing plate,
 
I pretty new but have found like others say its basically impossible to go "too slow", I end up using a orange/yellow and some cutting polish, I use like 5-10# of force pushing down and basically let it sit, moving at turtle speed, maybe even slower. Also use enough polish, but deff not too much. Basically if your trying to remove swirls I would section the roof of a sedan to 4 sections for example.



I used my UDM for a couple times, then found I needed more cutting action so I got a rotary, not as easy, basically you have to focus more and know a little more since its different than the UDM(and heavier/bulkier/awkward at 1st)
 
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