Leatherique -- Leather re-conditioning - W/ Pictures.

Great post. I can't wait to see the after pics and your thoughts... I have been debating on using Leatherique on my 350Z leather seats. They are in perfect condition but from what I hear there is no better leather conditioner.
 
Neofate said:
Thanks for that Judy. I am no "Leather Consultant".



But I do wonder why Leatherique would destroy the couch?



What makes it so different from the leather I have in my Lexus, that is 14 yrs old?



Leatherique recommends using this on Couches specifically -- Your the expert says your title, but I have a hard time believing the leatherique would A) Damage the couch, and B) Not help it.



All couches aren't the same I would imagine, I'm sure some with X coats, would be just like applying to leather in a vehicle (all vehicles aren't the same) -- And some with Y coats it would be more dangerous.



Again, what makes the couch different than the Lexus? Leatherique has been in use since 1968, and is used on furniture commonly. I'm a bit perplexed that it would be unsafe for anything 'leather', esp if it has somewhat of a clearcoat on it.



Educate me, please. :)
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Judy doesn't think Leatherique is anything special to say the least. There is another thread here with several of her posts and she has never used Leatherique but, "knows it won't transform leather in any way"......



So basically all the satisfied Leatherique customers are just dreaming I guess.....



Anyway, thanks for the write up here and I'm looking forward to the afters on your gray LS 400 seats.......:bigups
 
Leather does not need 'conditioning'. The only conditioner leather needs is moisture so you need to use a water based cleaner and protector and this will keep your leather in good 'condition'.



TO FEED OR PROTECT

There is still a huge body of detailers out there (and a good percentage of upholstery cleaners/leather technicians/retailers/consumers) who are desperate to ‘feed’ and/or ‘condition’ their leather. Usually this would consist of spreading some sort of oil or grease containing product onto their leather (milk, Vaseline, baby oil, musk oil being some of the more bizarre we have come across!!!!).



What we ask is why?



When leather is manufactured a certain amount of oil and fat is introduced into the hide and, (with the exception of one or two complex situations) this is where it stays. It does not evaporate or migrate or leave the leather by any other means.

What does leave the leather is moisture (water), and it is this that needs replacing.



Dry leather is more susceptible to a whole range of problems. The most obvious is cracking, both of finish and fibres.

Next is raised absorbency levels which means body oils containing fats and acids will more readily soak into the leather (ever seen those dark areas on head rests and arm ends on furniture) eventually destroying finishes and the leather itself.

Dry leather will be a sponge for spills, tea, coffee, red wine, ink, any product with colouring once soaked inside leather will leave a permanent stain, which depending on leather type may or may not be fixable�at a price.



Some hide foods and conditioners if properly formulated and used correctly with leather type taken into account will not damage the leather, others particularly if they contain waxes and silicones are likely to do more harm than good. The basis of a good type would be an emulsion of lanoline and water. The water re-hydrates and the lanoline helps the leather to hold the moisture for a little longer. This does not , however address the issue of protecting the leather. But it is cheap to manufacture and therefore can be sold at a low price (or an expensive price if it has a 'name' attached to it!!).



Leather Protectors on the other hand are a complex formulation and the ingredients are expensive, therefore the end product is more costly, often 2-3 times the price of a conditioner. BUT THEY DO WORK.. We always use the ‘Scotchgard’ analogy to explain how, without getting technical it is the easiest way. Its effectiveness can also be demonstrated. Leather Protector performs all the good functions of a ‘conditioner’ or ‘food’ product but will leave a virtually invisible, breathable, non greasy coating on the surface. This will be effective at helping to resist stains via spillages, dye transfer and day to day soiling, including body oils… It is not bullet proof and the leather still needs cleaning, but the dirt will be sitting in or on the protector and will clean off more effectively. During the cleaning process the protective element will also be reduced and need replacing. Good Protectors also contain UV protection which will help against fading etc. in sunnier climes.



How often is the next question and a tricky one to answer. Some leathers we would recommend a light clean and protect once a month, others a good clean and protect 1-2 times per year. There are so many finishes on the market at present that it is not wise to generalize. Experience and knowledge is the best guide. However on most car leathers 1-2 times per year should suffice.

Bottom line– to treat furniture with a good quality Leather Protector will probably cost a little more per average car than a ‘conditioner’ or ‘food’ product but the benefits far out way this cost and the effects can be demonstrated for your customer to see.

©Andy Alcock LTT2006



The addition of extra oils into the leather (especially cracked leather) will not help. What it does is swell the fibres and coats them in oil which then releases the bond between the leather and pigment which means that any cracking will get worse.



The chemistry behind the leatherique system in our opinion simply does not stack up and whereas leather cleaning and protecting is a relatively quick and simple process, it seems that this system takes a huge amount of effort. Water based cleaners and protectors keep leather in good condition.



Hope this helps
 
Ok here is the process a bit after 4 hours in 90degree heat:



4h1.JPG




4h2.JPG




and a close up of where the contaminants are surfacing -- (this isn't the leather discolored or messed up, (wiping this will make it perfect).



4hgunk.JPG




Another 4hrs and we'll see what becomes of it.



*You'll notice what looks like streaking, it is actually contaminants surfacing in that pattern. Perhaps previous products used in concentration that did streak once upon a time. I wiped a section of one of those to test, to make sure it wasn't some bad streak pattern and it wiped clean.
 
judyb said:
Leather does not need 'conditioning'.



The chemistry behind the leatherique system in our opinion simply does not stack up and whereas leather cleaning and protecting is a relatively quick and simple process, it seems that this system takes a huge amount of effort. Water based cleaners and protectors keep leather in good condition.



Hope this helps
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I see.. interesting stuff.



The leatherique has the ingredients you mentioned (and alot more of course).. I imagine it has a little milk in it, who knows :)



But it specifically said it had zero silicone in it, to point out it does no damage. It explains how it works, but I don't have the literature in my office at the moment.



The only thing that 'worries' me about your statements is that the cracking will get much much worse due to the application of the leatherique. We will see on that one,.. but if my leather becomes soft again -- I will consider this worth it and a success. If the cracks become somewhat worse in the next year or so.. I will start recommending against the product. But I really think it has merit. Again, this is not based on fact but logic and the testimony of many others.



I think it is feeding the leather -- whether it is backed by fact or not I do not know. I'm sure there is debate amongst the experts on both sides of the argument. I will judge the effects first hand and base it on that.. If I were in the field of 'leather' then I would of course study this extensively.



So, if people are on the fence about leatherique or 'conditioning' their leather in general -- They should take your expert advice and know that leather just does not need conditioning, period.



I tend to think it needs some help as it ages.



I agree with the protectant, very much so.



I intend on putting a UV protectant to 'seal' per se once I'm done with the cleaning process. This is safe for leather, and will further keep the suns rays from damage.



One question for you --



You say leather just loses moisture, water.



How does one get the moisture back into the leather if conditioners of all common types are , simply, a waste of money and do not work (but damage) ?



Pour water on it? :)



Thanks for the expert advice, it is intriguing.
 
Neofate- I'm watching your Leatherique process with interest, and I'll be interested to hear how things are down the road too.
 
Coated leather it's a waste of time. However, uncoated leather this stuff is like the fountain of youth.



I did an old Austin Heley that had very dry, nasty leather and owner was ready for recover on these seats. Ran several applications and it's like the seats were recovered. That good!



However, coated leather, stay with mild water based conditioners and simple cleaners. Too much solvents will remove the very thin coating and part of the natural tanning oils from the leather. K.I.S.S. is the best way to treat todays leather that is coated.



In fact, most manuals will say to use a mild detergent/soap to clean them.



Still, Leatherique has it's place and it does do well on the "old stuff".



Deanski
 
I can only share my personal experiences with Leatherique. I've used it on the cars (coated leather, hours of dwell time), I've used it on purses, wallets, shoes and leather furniture. I've had nothing but satisfying experiences apart from getting the RO on my skin.
 
tom p. said:
I'll draw peoples' attention back to this thread, take a look at the seats in the 928:



http://autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/101030-product-review-leatherique-leather-system.html



I'm going to PM the author of the post and ask him if he'll share a few thoughts and also report back months later if there has been any degradation of the leather surfaces or any related client complaints.
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Good Idea!



I dislike people who come into threads about a product they've never used and dis grade it.



Test looks like it's going good! Can't wait to see it finished.:clap:
 
judyb said:
Please do not use leatherique on your couch. Adding oils to cracked leather like this will release the adhesion of the pigment and make the cracking worse. If the cracking is very fine this is a good time to do some remedial restoration. Adding oils at this stage could be very detrimental to any work you need to do on it later.

Fading can be fixed.
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You say these will not work but have not used the products? Also, if these are so terrible, what specific products are recommended that are available here in the US? There is a huge difference in the quality of leather in a Jag or Rolls vs the seat covers discussed in this thread. Would it make any difference? Self procalaimed experts are six pence a dozen, please explain more to us so we may evaluate you and hopefully learn.



I realize it is difficult to evaluate by pictures alone but I thought the seats shown turned out rather well. Cheers.
 
tom p. said:
.. I've had nothing but satisfying experiences apart from getting the RO on my skin.
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Somebody had problems with the RO on their skin, was that you?



Oh, and (the MIA but fondly remembered) Lynn said it didn't work well on the steering wheel of her SII XJ Jag (worked great on the rest of the leather though), so I'd be a little careful using it on steering wheels.
 
Yeah, my hands itched for 3 days afterwards. Never had an experience like that before. Somebody does warn about using gloves when applying the RO, I think it was George.



Regardless, I've always used gloves following that experience and have had no issues since.
 
Neofate, just take your time and permit it to do its thing. You will notice any slight cracking closing up. I suspect it takes a few days for it to have the full impact - - that's what I noticed on my car on the side bolster that gets rubbed everything you get in/out.
 
I would like to use Leatherique on the wife's 2004 Nissan Murano with tan leather surfaces. They are not overly dirty as I have treated them regularly with Lexol. Any suggestions?
 
Good replies -- I'm surprised at the interest.. But it is interesting to me obviously.



The stuff is really doing something,.. so I've left it alone. Going to remove it *tommorow. So it will get a good 24 hours of work time. Although tonight it will probably be sitting in 70 degree temps instead of 90. Thats ok though.



I didn't expect it to close cracks,.. but it has gapped some of the reaaally fine ones. The large ones are still there. Heh,.. I wasn't looking for a crease eliminator. I was looking for something to soften this leather up, a true conditioner.. (IE: Change the condition of in which the leather is in, change state).



It is doing that. Man, they are greasy.. lol. Its like a sweaty amazon in the car. The seats are literally sweating it looks like from the heat,.. but I like to do things all the way, so now I wonder if I've missed out by not covering them with plastic. Ah, oh well. I think I've done a pretty good job.



I don't want to get anyones hopes up with the after pictures, because frankly, I don't think the seats are going to LOOK that different from a camera. I think 90% of it is going to be in how they feel, know what I mean? That can't really be shown in a picture to well. So you'll have to take my word for it.



I can really start to see how proper and improper application of this makes or breaks the results.



If I rubbed it in, and left it in, say, 50 degree temperature for 8 hours.. I don't think it would do a whole heck of alot. A little, but not what its meant to do.



But keep it in higher humidity, and 90ish degree temps for as long as you can .. -- Thats the key. And, maybe, covering them gets an extra 25% effect out of it. I won't know this time.



I'm ready to clean it off! Heh.. I have other things to do to the car, but I'm not until this is done.. ;)



As for the skin irritant. It *can* irritate your skin, but I suspect you have to be susceptible to it. I had it on my hands and arms for over an hour and I haven't itched once. Bare handed, felt like I was molding clay or something while I was working :) -- Now in your eyes wouldn't be good.. so don't rub the eye when applying hehe.



Gloves , like latex gloves would be fine I'm sure. Should probably be included in the kit.



I have the brush in mine, but I haven't used it yet, and I'm not even sure I'm going to use it on the clean up. I think a cotten towel and warm water will do the job to be honest.



To the quality of leather -- It is a 94, and was 62,000 in 1994. So I think the leather is likely to be of a 'decent' quality. Lets say higher than Ford or Chevy , but not as high as a 400,000 car ;) -- I don't know if its sealed, but it would appear that it is just by guessing. However I know it is getting through the seal in some fashion.. I suppose the seal is porous? No clue.. but you can see it going in and coming out -- I put a ton of it on there and I watched it be absorbed like it was a sponge in minutes. Its going somehwere -- Now it seems to be coming back out a bit, very odd.



The last thing, is I don't know how 'soft' this leather was new. I think the Lexus LS 400 had a somewhat 'tout' leather. A little stiffer than some other cars,.. a fine type of leather. The seats are very comfortable already,.. people always comment on that. I'm just doing it to do it hehe. Autopian right?
 
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